16
May

Photo Friday: Behind the Scenes

Boys of Marble at the Foro Italico

Rome is currently playing host to the Internazionale BNL d’Italia–the Italian Open Tennis Tournament. The men played last week and Novak Djovokic was crowned “the new emperor of Rome” (as the Italian papers put it). This week the women have taken to the courts–but these aren’t your usual playing fields. In fact, over the course of the past months, Rome’s tried-and-true tennis stadium has been disassembled and a makeshift arena is home to the tournament during the construction of a brand new tennis center.

Boys of Marble at the Foro Italico

The makeshift stadium has been built over and above the early 20th century Pietrangeli arena (for photos, see here). Built by Mussolini as part of his Foro Italico, a complex dedicated to the cult of sport, the gorgeous Pietrangeli stadium is not large enough to house all of Rome’s tennis fans. Thus, a temporary stadium has been installed over its marble seats–and atop the marble sculptures of athletes that line its perimeter.

On this Photo Friday, Susan Sanders brings us evocative images of the Boys of Marble, now imprisoned by the stadium that rises above them. For more photos of Rome by Susan, visit her blog: Rome With A View.

Boys of Marble at the Foro Italico

14
May

Ecco Italy in Charlottesville, Virginia

Ecco Italy Collage

What do you do if you’re a busy Italophile living in Charlottesville, VA and your schedule keeps you from visiting Italy as often as you’d like? You make your way to the Main Street Market to visit Verity Blue, an Italian boutique that serves a mean cappuccino and a downright delicious gelato.

But what if you want more than an immediate Italian fix for your stomach? What if your ears long to hear the music of the Italian language, your eyes are desperate for the beauty of the boot-shaped peninsula, your tongue wants to gyrate across a long Italian “rrrr,” and your hands wish they knew how to create the beautiful, simple food for which Italy is so well known?

Then you’ll need to pay a visit to Ecco Italy, an innovative and Italo-centric learning center located just above Verity Blue. Founded by Christina Ball, a former academic with a lot of entrepreneurial spirit, Ecco Italy offers Italian language courses (as well as French and Spanish!) for beginning and intermediate learners, as well as more specialized courses such as “Book Club Italiano,” “Cinema Chat,” and “Ecco Opera.”

Best of all, this is not your conventional school room language course. The friendly atmosphere of Ecco Italy invites students to hang around, to get to know their teachers and their fellow students, and to partake of a wide variety of cultural events–from lectures to cooking classes to wine tastings.

And, if you do find that you’re headed to Italy, Christina and her team at Ecco Italy can advise you (or even escort you!). Their travel services include a sister language school in Todi, an apartment for rent in Pisa, and a brilliantly conceived crash course in Italian language and culture that includes history lessons, basic language practice, cultural orientation, wine tastings, and travel advice.

A few years ago, we at the eCool Compound had the good fortune to meet Christina Ball, owner and director of Ecco Italy. We were impressed and charmed, and, thus, we were thrilled when she recently agreed to an interview with eCool. We hope you enjoy reading about Christina and Ecco Italy. We only wish we lived a bit closer so that we could be part of the “Little Italy” she’s created in Charlottesville.


Ecco Italy is a great idea! What compelled your to start this company and/or how did you come up with the idea for Ecco Italy?

I always knew I was too creative, too enthusiastic for academia. Still, it wasn’t until 2004, 6 years after earning my doctorate in Italian Literature from Yale, that all of the pieces fell into place for Ecco Italy in Charlottesville, Virginia. I had always dreamed of running my own school, a place without grades, a classroom that opened out onto the marketplace and the world, a place where conversation would be more important than written tests, where students of all ages would be encouraged to pursue their dream of “becoming Italian” in a supportive and beautiful environment.

Charlottesville is not only the home of Thomas Jefferson - a huge Europhile - and his University of Virginia, but it’s also a place with a sophisticated and varied cultural scene, a constant stream of interesting visitors and a strong local food and wine presence. Especially in recent years, many people have fled bigger cities and stressful jobs to seek a higher quality of life in Charlottesville. Somehow, it seems that when people pause for a moment in life to focus on themselves and their long-neglected dreams, Italian makes a dramatic appearance.

In addition to teaching undergrads, I taught a popular continuing ed night course at UVA called “All Aboard Italy” a sort of traveler’s Italian class. It was always full and at the end of the eight weeks the students, ranging in age from 22-82, would always beg me to teach them more Italian, to take them to Italy with me. After the third term of “All Aboard” in 2003, I was sure that there was a market for Ecco Italy here in Virginia, and when I was offered a beautiful space above an Italian café and farm table store downtown, there was no saying no.

My first class back in the fall of 2004, conversational Italian for beginners, had 5 wonderful students – including a young poet, an engineer who designed parts for Ferrari cars and a retired opera singer. Over the next few years, my vision took hold and I gradually added more language and culture classes – Cinema Chat (conversation through Italian film), Buon Viaggio: Italian for Travelers and Dreamers, a Book Club Italiano, Ecco Cibo regional Italian cooking and culture classes. I also added travel and business consulting and training to the mix.

By 2006 I had 6 Italian courses on the curriculum and about 200 students and, since the model was so popular, I added a Spanish division (Spain on Main) and French division in 2007. (note: Soon the center’s name will be changed to SPEAK Language and Culture Center – just for clarity’s sake! Ecco Italy will refer only to the Italian component)

Would you describe the kinds of opportunities offered by Ecco Italy?

Ecco Italy (if we consider the Italian part only – not the entire center with Spanish and French) is an oasis for the Italophile or for anyone desiring to appreciate life a bit more through language and culture. We offer a range of classes for everyone from the traveler needing to learn the basics (greetings, pronunciation, ordering, etc.) to nearly fluent speakers looking to practice what they know through stimulating discussion topics and activities.

Now that we have a “sister school” in Italy – La Lingua, La Vita in Todi (Umbria), we also offer the chance to be fully immersed in the language and culture of Italy through our Two Weeks in Todi course held in Todi (and Roma!) each September.

We also love to foster community and education through our cultural events such as wine tastings, events in conjunction with local book and film festivals and guest speakers such as our recent lecture on Rossini in Paris by an opera expert.

How is learning at Ecco Italy different from taking the normal evening language course?

First of all, the location and the living room/dining room décor of the colorful classroom (farm table, stylish couches, a big flat screen tv) are a refreshing change from the fluorescent lights and monochrome furnishings of the typical university classroom. There is often music playing when students arrive, and they may be carrying a cappuccino and a pastry as they take their seats around the farm table.

Lessons in our classroom are highly interactive and filled with partner activities, games, film clips and even occasional food (cheeses, gelato) and wine tastings. Instructors often take the students on “field trips” to the bakery or the cheese shop of the coffee bar so that students get the chance to use their language skills in a setting that’s as real as possible. I often get behind the bar and take orders for gelati and espressi from my students in italiano (luckily, the real baristi do the making and the serving!). I took my recent Buon Viaggio class to our swank new Italian wine bar in Charlottesville, enoteca, for a lesson on Italian regional wines and wine tasting. Anything to keep it fresh, to get people moving and speaking and to bring us as close as possible to the real thing – being in Italia.

Beyond just learning the language, what do you hope that clients at Ecco Italy will take home with them?

One of the most rewarding comments I’ve received from a student is that classes at Ecco Italy make them believe that change and seemingly unrealizable dreams (i.e. someday speaking Italian and traveling to Italy) are in fact, possible. I often overhear students saying that Ecco Italy is their “social life”, that it is the highpoint of their week or day, that it has turned on a light inside of them that they never want to extinguish. That’s pretty incredible to hear and is the fuel that keeps me going when, as multiple hat-wearing owner/director/manager/instructor, I run out of steam!

How would you describe the Ecco Italy community?

It’s a very diverse (all ages, professions, linguistic skill levels) and supportive community that’s luckily growing by the week. A person might sign up for a beginner’s class for an upcoming trip, but before they know it they’re attending cooking classes, French events and coming to Todi with me and their new friends!

I’ve had everyone from stay-at-home parents to massage therapists, graduate students and bestselling writers in my classes, and this variety serves to create a kind of “family-style” approach to education. Instead of competing, students support each other and this is vital since, for adults, foreign language learning can often bring to the surface deep insecurities and fears.

What is your most popular course offering?

It really changes! Since my core group that’s been with me from the beginning is still with me, our intermediate morning classes are always full. But I’d say Buon Viaggio and anything involving food and wine are also quite popular for those not pursuing a long-term dream of fluency.

Ecco Cibo must be a real bonus for the participants in the cooking class—what would you say is the primary difference between cooking in Italy and cooking in America?

Italy still eats and drinks regionally – something we are just learning to do here in the U.S. these days. Here in the States we favor new flavors and cuisines (for the most part) and love being able to get Maine lobster in Chicago, San Francisco sourdough in South Carolina, strawberries in December.

When I am in Umbria with my group in September, we drink Sagrantino and Orvieto wines, eat porcini-chick pea soup and thick umbricelli pasta coated in black truffle paste. The students return to Virginia understanding that there is no such thing as “Italian cuisine”, but instead there is Umbrian cuisine, Tuscan cuisine, Roman cuisine etc. Like the Italians themselves, Italian food has deep local roots and we can only fully appreciate this truth by eating our way around its 20 delightfully distinct regions – one of my personal life goals!

Italy is one of the top travel destinations for Americans. Why do you think Americans are so attracted to Italy?

It seems to me that the Italians, whether it’s true or not (I’m married to one!), have a lifestyle that most Americans crave and romanticize. In the eyes of most Americans, Italians still maintain many of the values that many feel are slipping away from us in the U.S. – long lunches and even longer vacations, the chance to be more than your profession, a sense of being grounded by both geography and family, a sense of style and elegance, the overarching importance of beauty (human, natural, artistic, culinary) and, of course, the melodic language.

What advice do you offer your clients as they prepare for trips to Italy?

I encourage them from the start to explore and learn about the incredible geographic, cultural, culinary diversity of Italy. I also encourage them to look closely at themselves and their own likes, dislikes and dreams. If someone loves nature, beaches and small towns, they will certainly be happier in Maremma or Puglia than Florence or Milan.

Often people have a very limited view of Italy at first, and they are constantly surprised by the things they learn in class – that there are cities called Parma and Reggio where “Parmigiano-Reggiano” is made, that unemployment is high, or that big families are no longer the norm in Italy.

Would you share with us your favorite place in Italy and tell us why it’s so special to you?

This is a hard one! I suppose part of the reason why so many of travelers start planning their next trip to Italy as soon as they get home is because each new place we discover becomes a special favorite place. My own favorite places shift over time and with my own changing life. I am quickly falling in love with the tranquil hilltown of Todi and the surrounding Umbrian countryside, but I am also a new resident of Pisa (my husband and I bought an apartment in a medieval Casa Torre/Tower House last year).

As I spend more time in Pisa’s relatively unexplored (by tourists) historic center, shopping at the market just outside my door, sipping wine in Piazza Vettovaglie packed with Pisans, taking a scooter-ride to nearby beaches – it is quickly becoming my new favorite place, my new home.

But there’s one place in Italy that has been my eternal favorite ever since my first visit to Italy in 1985: Roma. Wandering the streets and river banks of Rome’s Trastevere and Ghetto neighborhoods in the late summer is an experience I constantly crave when I’m home in Virginia. It’s both blissfully peaceful and energizingly urban at the same time. Everything radiates warmth and beauty. Only in Rome have the otherwise conflicting powers of chaos and mystery declared an eternal truce.

13
May

Gifts for the God Who Has Everything

Build Your Myth Barbells by Greece is for Lovers

Every so often, we at the eCool Compound leave our happy little Roman domus and head on over to Greece just to take in the reverse classical view. And while we love to stroll about the ruins and muse upon the foundations of western civilization as much as any good classics geeks, we’ll freely admit that we also like to indulge in a bit of shopping.

So, imagine our delight and surprise when we discovered that those darn Greek gods have gone off and founded themselves a little boutique full of hard-to-find, one-of-a-kind unique gift items that are sure to delight any deity! Heavens! A divine shop right in the heart of Ancient Athens!

Greece is for Lovers Thunderbolt

In keeping with traditional labor practices, the gods have enslaved a group of mortals, forcing them to invent, produce, and market objects that will please and entertain the Olympians. Calling themselves the “Greece is for Lovers” collective, the mortals toil day and night, fueled only by an occasional ration of ouzo and pita distributed by Dionysus and Demeter. And yet they invent mighty and marvelous toys for the deities!

Take, for example, the “Build Your Myth” barbells (top photo) made of solid brass and sold in 1.5 and 3 kilogram weights. Finding it hard to cope with the demanding demigod lifestyle? Does everything feel like a Herculean task? It’s probably time to start pumping iron in the Ionic style! Why hoist the world upon your shoulders when you can bulk up with just a few columnar reps?

Greece is For Lovers Thunderbolt

Then there’s the Zeus-Endorsed Thunderbolt which can be thrown by both left-handed and right-handed deities (or used as a letter opener to rip through hatemail with the stealth and fury of Zeus!) It’s available in both solid or silver–plated brass (see above and below) and is signed by the King of the Gods himself!

And for the god whose street cred is on the wane? The mortals at Greece is for Lovers suggest that any deity who’s a bit compromised in the cred department should strap on a leather skateboard and hit the pavement. (See below) Socks optional.

Greece is for Lovers Skateboard

Headed to Athens and want to pick up a few little pretties for your own patron god? The studio/shop of Greece is for Lovers is located at 13a Karyatidon Street in Athens, very near the New Acropolis Museum. The closest metro stop is Akropolis, on Line 2/Red). (Oh how we mortals love that new Athenian metro that lets us tour the underworld in safety!) Open from 10:00am to 6pm on weekdays and from 11:00am to 3:00pm on Saturdays.

You can also contact the mortals in charge of this divinely inspired endeavor by email at info@greeceisforlovers.com and by phone or fax at +30 210 9245064.

And, if you’re headed to Germany rather than Greece (for reasons that we could never understand–but, hey, to each his own), you can pick up products by Greece is for Lovers in the Museum Shop in the Deutsche Guggenheim in Berlin. Good luck with the Cimbrians!

Skateboard by Greece is For Lovers

12
May

The Triumph of Caesar by Steven Saylor

Steven Saylor's New Novel, The Triumph of Caesar

For readers of Roman historical fiction, today brings the publication of Steven Saylor’s much-anticipated book, The Triumph of Caesar, the twelfth volume in his Roma Sub Rosa series.

Like the other 11 volumes, the Triumph of Caesar stars ancient investigator, Gordianus the Finder, who navigates through the complex political intrigue of first-century BC Rome in order to investigate rumors of a plot against the life of Julius Caesar.

Our sources at Amazon.com tell us that the already much-praised book places Gordianus at the epicenter of Cesarean politics in the years just before 44BC:

The Roman civil war has come to its conclusion – Pompey is dead, Egypt is firmly under the control of Cleopatra (with the help of Rome’s legions), and for the first time in many years Julius Caesar has returned to Rome itself. Appointed by the Senate as Dictator, the city abounds with rumors asserting that Caesar wishes to be made King – the first such that Rome has had in centuries. And that not all of his opposition has been crushed.

Gordianus, recently returned from Egypt with his wife Bethesda, is essentially retired from his previous profession of ‘Finder’ but even he cannot refuse the call of Calpurnia, Caesar’s wife. Troubled by dreams foretelling disaster and fearing a conspiracy against the life of Caesar, she had hired someone to investigate the rumors. But that person, a close friend of Gordianus, has just turned up dead – murdered — on her doorstep. With four successive Triumphs for Caesar’s military victories scheduled for the coming days, and Caesar more exposed to danger than ever before, Calpurnia wants Gordianus to uncover the truth behind the rumored conspiracies — to protect Caesar’s life, before it is too late. No fan of Caesar’s, Gordianus agrees to help – but only to find the murderer who killed his friend. But once an investigation is begun, there’s no controlling what it will turn up, who it will put in danger, and where it will end.

As has been the case with the whole of Saylor’s Roma Sub Rosa series, The Triumph of Caesar is winning great praise–and here at the eCool Compound we’re letting the dice fly in an effort to decide who gets to read it first!

Saylor on Writing Historical Fiction

While you’re waiting for your copy of The Triumph of Caesar to arrive from Amazon or elsewhere, we eCoolers suggest that you can satiate your thirst for all-things Steven Saylor in several other ways. Several months ago, Saylor, along with another celebrated writer of historical fiction, Steven Pressfield (among Pressfield’s works: Gates of Fire: An Epic Novel of the Battle of Thermopylae), took the stage at the Getty Villa in Malibu, CA, to discuss the art of writing historical fiction set in antiquity and the challenges of interpreting the classical past for modern audiences.

In their 84-minute discussion, Saylor and Pressfield revealed why they choose to set their novels in the ancient world, how they combine research and imagination to create stories that are both riveting and historically accurate, and why the ancient world continues to resonate deeply with today’s audiences. The discussion, which was made possible by an endowment from the Villa Council, is posted on the Getty website and you can watch it by clicking here.

The Triumph of Caesar Book Tour

Over the next few months, Saylor will making his own triumphal book procession–so make your way to one of these venues, hear him speak, and get a signed copy of The Triumph of Caesar.

Today, Tuesday 13 May at M is for Mystery in San Mateo, CA, Saylor launches The Triumph of Caesar with a book signing at 7pm. 86 East Third Avenue, 650-401-8077.

Wednesday 14 May at 7pm in Scottsdale, AZ. Steven will talk and sign books at The Poisoned Pen. 4014 N. Goldwater Blvd,. 480-947-2974.

On Saturday 17 May, Saylor will appear at 4:30pm on the Main Stage at the Kansas City Literary Festvial at Country Club Plaza in Kansas City, MO. Check the official schedule for any changes.

On Thursday 22 May in Portland, OR, Steven will talk to Friends of Mystery at the auditorium of Legacy Good Samaritan Hospital, 1040 NW 22nd Avenue (corner of NW 22nd and Marshall). Reception and annual book sale at 7:00pm; meeting begins at 7:30pm.

At Powell’s Books in Portland, OR on Friday 23 May where Steven will talk and sign books. 1005 W. Burnside, 800-878-7323.

On Wednesday 28 May in San Francisco, CA, Saylor will speak in the Latino B Room at the San Francisco Main Library (Civic Center) at 6:30pm. Copies of The Triumph of Caesar will be available for purchase.

In Berkeley, CA on Friday 30 May Steven will speak and sign books at Cody’s Books (the new downtown location) at 2201 Shattuck Avenue (at Allston Way). 7pm. 510-559-9500.

Click here for further appearances in San Francisco, Austin, and Lisbon in June and July.

09
May

Photo Friday: Looking at Love

Tourist in the Capitoline Museums, Rome

It’s Photo Friday!  On this beautiful spring day we bring you Susan Sander’s photograph of a tourist taking photos of the sculpture of Cupid and Psyche that’s found in the Capitoline Museums.

The lovely weather has brought tourists out in droves, compelling Susan to turn her viewfinder from Rome’s iconic monuments and interesting street scenes to the tourists themselves. But why?

“It’s interesting to try and see what the tourists are seeing in the various monuments.  Why are they looking at a particular object?  What’s compelling them?  That’s what interesting to me,” says Susan.  “All the monuments have well-known postcard views, but often tourists get intrigued with another aspect and I like to try and figure out what’s caught their attention.”

For more photos by Susan, visit her Rome With A View blog.

09
May

The Colosseum by Moonlight

The Colosseum by Moonlight

Copy: “See your world in a new light.”

To promote Earth Hour and remind people that it is a global, worldwide event, Leo Burnett Sydney created an ad campaign that featured worldwide iconic buildings lit by the Moon. (For other monuments seen by moonlight, click here.)

Of course, Leo Burnett and the innovators of Earth Hour aren’t the first to recommend gazing upon the Colosseum by the light of the moon. Praise for that idea goes to Lord Byron, who started a fad in the early nineteenth century when he described a nocturnal foray into the Colosseum. In his poem, Manfred, Byron described the Roman arena as seen under a brightly-lit moon. From this point on, nighttime visits to the Colosseum became de rigeur for nineteenth-century travelers, many of whom had committed Byron’s lines to memory:

When I was wandering, - upon such a night
I stood within the Coliseum’s wall,
Midst the chief relics of almighty Rome!
The trees which grew along the broken arches
Waved dark in the blue midnight, and the stars
Shone through the rents of ruin; from afar
The watchdog bay’d beyond the Tiber; and
More near from out the Caesars’ palace came
The owl’s long cry…
Ivy usurps the laurel’s place of growth;-
But the gladiators’ bloody Circus stands,
A noble wreck in ruinous perfection!

To read more about moonlight visitors to the Colosseum, click here.

Ad seen above created by:

Agency : Leo Burnett Sydney,Australia
Executive Creative Director: Mark Collis
Creative Director: Stephen Coll
Art Director: Nils Eberhardt

09
May

Nose Blocked?

Ad for Otrivin Nose Spray

We’re spending the morning laughing at these hilarious ads for Otrivin nose spray that come out of Saatchi & Saatchi in Milan. The copy reads, “Very Blocked Nose?”while the paintings show perfectly posed hunting dogs unable to find their prey due to nasal blockage.

Ad for Otrivin Nose Spray

Advertising Agency: Saatchi & Saatchi, Milan, Italy
Company Name: Saatchi & Saatchi Simko, Geneve
Executive Creative Directors: John Pallant, Roger Kennedy, Olivier Girard, Jean-François Fournon
Creative Directors: Guido Cornara, Agostino Toscana
Art Director: Luca Pannese
Copywriter: Luca Lorenzini
Illustrator: Rob Perry
Photographer: Davide Bodini

Ads for Otrivin Nose Spray

07
May

27 Etruscan Tombs Discovered in Tarquinia

Etruscan Tomb in Tarquinia

This morning the ANSA news agency brings us the delightful news of 27 Etruscan tombs newly discovered in Tarquinia, a city just north of Rome.  Once a flourishing Etruscan metropolis, Tarqunia fell to the Romans in 351 BC–though they themselves had captured and put to death 307 Roman soldiers in 358 BC.

Both powerful and prestigious in the Etruscan era, today Tarquinia is best known for its archaeological remains, including some 6000 tombs of which about 60 are embellished with paintings akin to the one seen above which is found in the Tomb of the Leopards.  Now, Italian archaeologists have found more than two dozen new tombs.

Maria Tecla Castaldi, the archaeological superintendent for southern Etruria commented on the discovery:

This is the most exciting discovery here in decades.  I’ve just been down and visited the only tomb that is open, which was probably broken into around 50 years ago.  The other tombs are sealed and presumably intact.

Police have cordoned off the area, less than half a mile (500m) from the main necropolis, to ward off tomb raiders as digs go on.

06
May

DJ Leisure

DJ Graffiti on Via Ostiense

We recently spotted this graffiti on the old Mercato Generale on Via Ostiense. We’re calling it DJ Leisure - and we know there are readers out there who will understand the importance of that name.

05
May

The “Servian” Wall at Rome’s Termini Station

The Servian Wall at Rome's Termini Train Station

The improvements which are being rapidly carried out, especially in the neighborhood of the Central Railway Station, supply us daily with discoveries, valuable artistically, scientifically, and geographically. It may be said that not one, but two Romes are being reconstructed at this moment - the modern, with its boulevards, squares, and churches; the ancient, with its temples, thermae, aqueducts and theaters.

Rodolfo Lanciani, Letter from Rome

The passage above, written on January 15, 1876, by the archaeologist Rodolfo Lanciani and published in The Athenaeum, an English journal of the fine arts, captures the spirit of excavation and modernization that characterized Rome in the late nineteenth century. Just six years earlier, the Eternal City had become the national capital of the newly united Italy, a position that granted it a political and civic prestige akin to that which it held as capital of the ancient Roman Empire.

As government offices and their associated civic servants crowded into the new capital, Rome experienced unparalleled growth - the population more than doubled in the years between 1870 and 1900 and continued to rise rapidly after the turn of the century. Such speedy growth demanded intense urban development: the city and its infrastructure were in dire need of expansion and modernization for many houses, roads, and sewers were at least several centuries old. Urban development was impossible in Rome, however, without conducting archaeological excavations upon the ancient, medieval, and early-modern ruins that lay below. Thus, in the decades following the unification of Italy, a great deal of archaeological activity accompanied urban transformation and growth.

Among the monuments to be excavated and studied in this time was an impressive tract of the Republican or “Servian” Wall on the Esquiline Hill. Running a course of about 100 meters and standing up to nine meters in height, the wall fragment is made of large tufa blocks, some of which still bear quarry-marks in the form of Greek letters. Late nineteenth-century excavators believed this tract to be part of the wall attributed by Livy (1.44) to Rome’s sixth king, Servius Tullius (578-535 BC). Despite the fact that this assumption has been disproved - the wall is constructed of a type of tufa available only in the Etruscan city of Veii and the quarries from which its massive blocks were lifted became available to the Romans only after their defeat of Veii in 396 BC - its preservation is still remarkable.

When, in 1938, the Romans found in necessary to improve their public transportation system with the construction of a new train station, the architect, Angiolo Mazzoni, was forced to contend with this hulking mass of ancient wall and he did so by building today’s Stazione Termini around and above the Roman structure. Thus, today, a trip to the train station is also a journey through time. Outside of Termini, the heavy “Servian” Wall is majestically juxtaposed with the building’s monumental travertine and glass facade (see photo above). Meanwhile, in the basement of the station, a further tract of the wall stands in the middle of a newly renovated shopping mall, cutting its path through an ever-busy McDonalds, where Romans and tourists alike snack on Big Macs and Chicken McNuggets while admiring the ancient structure.

Rome's Servian Wall in the Basement of Stazione Termini





 

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