Archive for July 30th, 2007

30
Jul

Colosseo al Cocomero

A Watermelon Carved to Look Like the Colosseum

In the late summer, some of Rome’s nightlife moves to the beach, while other bars, restaurants, and cafes take up residence on the banks of the Tiber River. There’s a breeze down there – even when one can’t be found elsewhere in the Eterna – and so the Romans take themselves riverside for dining, drinking, and even a bit of dancing.

Those looking for a healthier version of nightlife along the river will find themselves in luck because there’s at least one brilliantly illuminated stand selling already cut up fresh fruit. You can order a bowl of peaches, cherries, bananas, plums, nectarines, cantaloupe, or apricots. Or, if the mood strikes you, you might consider ordering a watermelon (cocomero in Roman dialect, anguria in the rest of Italy) carved to look like the Colosseum! Buon appetito!

30
Jul

Like A Virgin

Crowds waiting for la Madonna Fiumarola on Rome's Tiber River,  July 2007

Trastevere turned out en masse yesterday evening, eager to continue the celebration of La Madonna Fiumarola that began a week ago. (Click here for an account of the elaborate procession that kicked off the festivities and for details of the Madonna herself.) While last weekend saw the 90 kilo wooden statue touring Trastevere’s narrow streets and alleys in the company of Roman centurions, medieval knights, and mounted police, this weekend the Virgin blessed the neighborhood of Trastevere from a boat on the Tiber River that was navigated by the Vigili del Fuoco, Rome’s trusty firemen. Curious onlookers, as well as those faithfully devoted to Trastevere’s most esteemed religious image, lined the bridges and the river banks to witness the statue’s watery journey from Castel Sant’Angelo to the Tiber Island.

La Madonna Fiumarola on Rome's Tiber River,  July 2007

La Madonna Fiumarola made the journey down the Tiber River at sunset (making photographs extremely difficult to take!). A select group of clergy joined her in the fire boat (the far right boat in the photo above) and led prayers and chants by means of a loudspeaker and they slowly made their way down the river amidst police pontoons, 8-person and 4-person sculls, a riverboat full of civic dignitaries, and several boats of devoted servants who distributed colorful balloons across the river’s murky water.

La Madonna Fiumarola en route to the Basilica of Santa Maria in Trastevere

Arriving at a river boat dock near Tiber Island, the Madonna was greeted by the same police band that escorted her through the neighborhood last weekend. After disembarking, she was carried amidst a huge cheering crowd to the neighborhood’s main basilica, Santa Maria in Trastevere, for an overnight visit. Later this evening, having completed her tour of duty for 2007 (the same tour she’s been doing since the early sixteenth century), the statue will be transported back to her home church of Sant’Agata, just a few blocks away.

30
Jul

Chilly Con Campari

Campari & Grapefruit Juice Granita

Last week we staved off the Roman heat off by making a fabulous coffee granita with Bailey’s Irish Cream and the result left us swooning (never mind that we were spooning it right out of the freezer to avoid delays that might have been caused had we bothered to scoop the icy treat into serving dishes).

This week we’re cooling our taste buds with a new granita flavor – Campari with grapefruit juice and lime. Making this party pleaser was incredibly easy. We simply poured equal portions of beautiful, bright red Campari and grapefruit juice into a 13 x 9 inch plastic container. We added a few squirts of lime juice and stuck the container into the freezer. As the mixture began to freeze into ice crystals, we stirred. And we kept stirring every 30 minutes or so until the whole wonderful container had transformed itself into an icy slushy treat.

We’ve served it in various ways and all have received rave reviews. It’s great scooped into small glasses and garnished with lime as shown above – a perfect aperitif or light dessert. Equally lovely is the innovative idea of splashing a spoonful into a glass of prosecco to add a bit of color and a hint of Campari’s distinctive bitter flavor.

30
Jul

Shaken Not Stirred

Cafe Shakkerato at Gusto's Pesce e Ortaggi Cafe

Summer in Rome means a switch from drinking the usual hot espresso, caffe latte, and cappuccino to freddo (or cold) versions of the same drinks. In recent years, however, the caffe shakerato, a more elegant and refined summer cooler has been gaining enormous popularity across the Eternal City.

Much simpler (and more beautiful, we might add) than its Starbucks ‘cino cousins, the caffe shakkerato is made by putting a shot of hot espresso, crushed ice, and simple syrup or white sugar into a martini shaker. The mixture is then shakerato-ed or shaken for about 30 seconds and poured into a martini glass. The result – a deeply refreshing, dark brown drink that is topped by a light brown foam – is the perfect pick-me-up on a hot afternoon.

Caffe Shakerato at Gusto's Pesce e Ortaggi Cafe in Rome

We recently stopped for a caffe shakkerato in Piazza Augusto Imperatore, between Via del Corso and the Tiber River. Named for the Mausoleum of Augustus, Rome’s first emperor, which is the untidy centerpiece of this urban space, the piazza was once off the beaten track, rarely visited by Romans or tourists.

All that has changed in past years, however. The transformation began in 1998 when Alessandra Marino and her husband, Alessandro Tudini, opened Gusto, an ultra-hip pizzeria, restaurant, and bar that they installed into unkempt buildings erected by the Fascist dictator Mussolini in the 1930s. An immediate hit with Rome’s hip and happening crowd, over the course of the past decade Gusto has become its own Roman Empire. Marino and Tudini have taken over vast tracts of Piazza Augusto Imperatore, adding to their territory an osteria, an enoteca, a cheese shop, a store selling chic kitchen wares and cookbooks, and most recently a cafe and a casual restaurant that specializes in fish and vegetables.

It’s in that new cafe (pictured above) that we indulged in our caffe shakerato. And having always been fans of Gusto’s pizza and of their weekend brunch (as well as the cleverness of the name which alludes both to Augustus and to the wonderful taste of all things served in the establishment), we’re more than happy to frequent this newest of provinces in the Empire of Gusto.




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