Archive for September, 2007



23
Sep

Re-Amping the Past

Rome's Centrale Montemartini Museum

Most tourists visiting Rome stay for about three days. In that time they manage to see the Sistine Chapel, the Trevi Fountain, the Pantheon, Piazza Navona, the Spanish Steps, the Colosseum, and the Roman Forum. And, just fitting all that into a few days takes discipline and stamina.

But, of course, there are a wealth of other things to see in Rome. “Roma. Non basta una vita,” says an old expression. “Rome. One lifetime isn’t enough.”

At Eternally Cool we largely agree with the maxim. One lifetime really isn’t enough to see all that Rome has to offer. But if you’re one of those people willing to spend part of your life getting to know the Eternal City, one place that you absolutely shouldn’t miss is the Centrale Montemartini Museum on Via Ostiense.

Rome's Centrale Montemartini Museum

The building in which the Centrale Montemartini Museum is housed was Rome’s first electric power plant. Inaugurated in 1912, it provided electricity to the Eternal City for some 50 years before being decommissioned. Today, its turbines and boilers are still in place and the air in the museum still holds a faint scent of oil and machinery.

All that power-producing machinery became a dramatic backdrop for some of Rome’s most stunning ancient sculptures when the Capitoline Museums closed for renovation in 1997.  Museum organizers had the wonderful idea of installing some of the Capitoline collection into the Centrale Montemartini and so some 400 ancient sculptures - many of them not previously on public view - were put on display in what was intended to be a temporary exhibition.  However, by the time the Capitoline Museums were restored and reopened, the Centrale Montemartini had been declared a raging success and it was decided to make the exhibition permanent.

Rome's Centrale Montemartini Museum

Residents and visitors of Rome alike celebrate the dramatic juxtaposition of white marble sculptures against dark twentieth-century machinery.  And, though thousands of years separated the crafting of the ancient sculptures and the installation of the electricity-producing turbines and boilers, the visual contrasts created in the Centrale Montemartini seem intended to make us compare the ancient Greek and Roman world view to our own.  Whereas the ancients believed their gods controlled all that happened in the universe - from thunder and lightening to good fortune and love - our modern world relies on scientific and technological advancement to keep the world spinning.  In particular, we count on electricity, for without it much of modern civilization would quickly disappear.  Thus, in the Centrale Montemartini, marble images of the gods that insured the well-being of the ancient world go head-to-head with the electric power that makes our modern world work.  It’s their gods versus ours and it’s hard to say who comes out ahead.

What to see in the museum?

The first floor showcases luxury goods from ancient Roman houses and tombs, most dating to the first century BC, as well as an impressive display of Roman portraiture, including the famous Togate Barberini, as well as images of Julius Caesar and Augustus.

The second floor is divided into two parts, one of which showcases sculptures that were displayed in public contexts in ancient Rome, and the other of which exhibits sculptures and mosaics found in private environments such as the luxury villas that belonged to Rome’s most elite citizens.

Centrale Montemartini Museum. Via Ostiense, 106.

Rome's Centrale Montemartini Museum

22
Sep

Fashionable Food

Ads for the Italian Chamber of Commerce

This clever ad campaign produced by Cayenne Italia for the Istituto nazionale per il commercio estero combines the best of Italian food with the best of Italian fashion as a reminder about just how many of the good things in life come to us from the Italians.

It’s hard not to smile when you see that purse made of Parmigiano or the pasta belt. And who wouldn’t want a prosciutto ring (nothing like a snack on your finger) or an utterly seductive pair of wine-bottle heels?

Ads for the Italian Chamber of Commerce

21
Sep

Photo Friday: The Dying Gaul

The Dying Gaul at Rome's Capitoline Museums

It’s Friday once again and therefore time for another beautiful Rome photo from Susan Sanders.

Thanks to Susan’s photographic talents, today we see the Dying Gaul through the eyes of an attentive museum visitor. The sculpture, one of the highlights of Rome’s Capitoline Museums, is a Roman copy of a Greek Hellenistic sculpture and portrays a Celtic warrior valiantly meeting his death.

For more of Susan’s photos, visit her photo blog, Rome With A View.

21
Sep

Stop Global Warming

Stop Global Warming Ads

The message that accompanies these clever ads reads “Stop Global Warming.”

Stop Global Warming Ads

Advertising Agency: Cayenne Italy
Creative Directors: Giandomenico Puglisi, Stefano Tumiatti
Art Director: Livio Gerosa
Copywriter: Caterina Calabrò
Photographer: Daniele Poli
Published: September 2007

21
Sep

At the Edge of the World

Antartica Photo by Fabiano Busdraghi

After years of working in the fields of Physics and Oceanography, Italian scientist Fabiano Busdraghi left his scientific career to dedicate himself to photography. This year he’s been exhibiting the photos he took over the course of two trips to Antarctica: the first trip took him to Drake’s Passage while the second led him to the southern edge of the Sea of Weddell.

Photos of Antarctica by FAbiano Busdraghi

The photos are simply stunning: the abstract shapes of ice and water seem almost to be metaphysical visions - just the way you’d want the very edge of the earth to look. Enjoy these and see more at his online gallery.

Photos of Antarctica by FAbiano Busdraghi

20
Sep

Eat, Drink & Be Roman

Painting from the House of Julia Felix in Pompeii

Looking to throw the ultimate theme party? Just dying to wrap up in a sheet toga-style and enjoy some honey-dipped dormice in the manner of the ancient Romans? We’re always up for a dining adventure here at EternallyCool and lately we’ve been entertaining ourselves by reading ancient Roman menus, for they offer culinary inspiration as well as the chance to shudder a bit when such delicacies as stuffed sow’s womb or peacock eyeballs are mentioned.

For example, we’ve just been perusing the Satyricon, a novel written in the second century AD which recounts an elaborate (and fictional) feast offered by a pretentious and wealthy Roman named Trimalchio. What was served up at this exaggerated extravaganza? The guests started the meal with wine, olives, dormice sprinkled with poppy-seed and honey, hot sausages, plums, and pomegrantate seeds.

From there they moved on to pea-hen eggs stuffed with fig-peckers surrounded by peppered egg yolks, a one-hundred year-old Falernian wine, a tray of nibbles featuring the signs of the zodiac and foods associated with each sign (ram’s vetches on Aries, a piece of beef on Taurus, the womb of an unfarrowed sow on Virgo, and so on), stuffed capons and sow’s bellies, and more.

Mosaic of the Unswept Floor

Frankly, we’re glad to have missed that one, as Trimalchio was a difficult and demanding host. But we wish we’d been invited to the feast thrown for Macius Lentulus Niger, when, in 63 BC, he was made a Roman priest. His celebratory meal was attended by A-list religious officials, including Julius Caesar and the Vestal Virgins. And, while Roman banquets went on for hours and hours, one can imagine that everyone went home from this one quite sated, for the ancient writer Macrobius details the offerings:

Before the dinner proper came sea hedgehogs; fresh oysters, as many as the guests wished; large mussels; sphondyli; field fares with asparagus; fattened fowls; oyster and mussel pasties; black and white sea acorns; sphondyli again; glycimarides; sea nettles; becaficoes; roe ribs; boar’s ribs; fowls dressed with flour; becaficoes; purple shellfish of two sorts. The dinner itself consisted of sows’ udder; boar’s head; fish-pasties; boar-pasties; ducks; boiled teals; hares; roasted fowls; starch pastry; Pontic pastry.

If all this is making you hungry and you’re wanting to indulge in some good ancient Roman food, we recommend the following resources:

Not looking to make your own Roman feast, but dying to delve into some of that irresistible ancient cuisine? You may want to pay a visit to Ars Convivialis, a restaurant in Rome that serves ancient Roman cuisine (they also cater), stages toga parties for groups, and offers a variety of ancient entertainment to accompany their feasts.

Or, if you’re really wanting to get a taste of antiquity, volunteer to be party of the Pompeii Food and Drink Project next summer. You’ll join a team of scholars as they analyze patterns of daily life in Pompeii by investigating structures and rooms used for the storage, distribution, preparation, serving, and consumption of food and drink

18
Sep

Private Eyes: An Interview With Steven Saylor

Steven Saylor and his novel Roma

Author Steven Saylor is perhaps best known for his highly successful series of mystery novels, ROMA SUB ROSA, set in the Rome of Caesar and Cicero. The series hit the bookshelves in 1991 when St. Martin’s Press published Roman Blood, the tale of an aspiring young lawyer named Cicero who takes on his first big murder case, attracts the wrath of the all-powerful Roman general Sulla, and turns for help to a toga-wearing sleuth named Gordianus the Finder. In order to aid Cicero, Gordianus must navigate through the complex political intrigue that characterized Rome in the first century BC, while simultaneously meeting the challenges presented by daily life in a crowded and strife-torn city.

In Roman Blood, Gordinaus cleverly solves Cicero’s problems, allowing the advocate to win his case, and provoking Saylor to craft ten more books in which the investigator proves himself to be ancient Rome’s premier private eye (another Gordianus tale, The Triumph of Caesar, will be released in May 2008). In the course of the series, the fictional detective comes face-to-face with some of Rome’s most powerful movers and shakers, investigating cases for such high ranking regents as Pompey and Caesar, and not uncommonly finding himself a witness to the extraordinary political and military events that gave shape to the Roman Empire.

The highly successful ROMA SUB ROSA books in which Gordianus is the protagonist have won Steven Saylor great acclaim for his talent in weaving a spellbinding tale, for his ability to capture the ancient world, and for skill in inventing tales that are grounded in the real history of ancient Rome. Now Saylor has used those same skills to write Roma, an epic saga of Rome that spans a thousand years and follows the shifting fortunes of two families through the ages.

The Times Literary Supplement says that with Roma “Saylor puts his finger on the very essence of Roman history” for the book draws on history, legend, and new archaeological discoveries to bring the first thousand years of Rome’s history to life. Beginning with the ill-fated twins Romulus and Remus and stretching through Rome’s astonishing ascent to become the capital of the world’s most powerful empire, Roma allows readers to witness some of history’s most important events as they look through the eyes of two early Roman families, the Potitius and the Pinarius clans. Readers follow the families from generation to generation, witnessing the founding and rise of Rome as a member of one family serves as confidant of Romulus, while another is born a slave and tempts a Vestal Virgin to break her vows. One family member becomes a mass murderer while another becomes the heir of Julius Caesar, and through the years each generation is linked to those before it by a mysterious talisman as ancient as the city itself.

We at EternallyCool love Gordianus the Finder and we’re having difficulty putting Roma down. So we were thrilled with Steven Saylor agreed to let us interview him about both his books and his interest in Rome, past and present.

Films set in Ancient Rome

How and when did your interest in the ancient past develop?
I have to credit the movies of my boyhood. When I was growing up, back in the 1960s, the cinema was obsessed with the spectacle of the ancient world. After Ben Hur won 11 Oscars in 1959, there was a huge spate of movies set in Greece and Rome — Spartacus, Cleopatra, Jason and the Argonauts, all the Hercules movies and other peplum films made in Italy, and on and on. My little Texas town was more like something out of the movie Last Picture Show, so those movies provided a very exotic and exciting escape. My imaginary journeys to the ancient past began at a drive-in theater set amid cattle pastures.

When did you take your first trip to Rome? What impressed you the most when you arrived in the Eternal City for the first time?
After all my boyhood dreams of Rome, and my history studies at the University of Texas at Austin, I didn’t actually visit Rome until my late twenties. That was my first contact with ancient ruins, and the experience was electrifying. I’ll never forget my first day in Rome, wandering about in a jet-lagged stupor, not really knowing where I was, and suddenly arriving at the Forum Romanum. My imagination was set afire. When I returned to San Francisco, I almost immediately set about writing Roman Blood, as a way to remain in Rome through my imagination.

The books in your ROMA SUB ROSA mystery series detail the adventures of an ancient detective called Goridanus the Finder, who always manages to be in the middle of the political intrigue that characterized the first century BC. How did you come up with the idea of telling Rome’s story through the eyes of such a character?
I originally intended to make Cicero the hero of Roman Blood, and to use his secretary, Tiro, as the narrator — a sort of Watson to Cicero’s Sherlock Holmes. But the more I studied Cicero, the more problematic he became; I couldn’t really see him as a hero figure. So I invented an investigator to act on Cicero’s behalf, a man allied to no particular faction and skilled at digging up the dirt. That was Gordianus. Because of his innate honesty and his craving for truth, and his ability to move among the various social classes, he turned out to be an ideal narrator for the series.

Books by Steven Saylor

Were there really private investigators in ancient Rome?
We don’ have any actual evidence of such men, but that doesn’t mean they didn’t exist. Indeed, if they did their jobs well, they would leave no trace in the historical record — the invisible men of history. Especially in the era of Gordianus, it makes sense that the powerful families of Rome would resort to spies and investigators, because they are all dragging each other through the courts, on real or trumped-up charges.

You’ve written so much about ancient Rome. Do you ever feel as if some part of you lives in antiquity or as if you’ve got one foot in the past and one in the present?
I do feel very grounded in the final century of the Roman Republic. The politics of that era are as real to me as the politics of today, and just as complex and frustrating; Caesar is as real to me as George Bush, but also as distant and inscrutable. I’m powerless to affect the actions of either man, but at least Gordianus gets to meet Caesar face and face.

If you could assume the identity of one ancient Roman (besides, of course, Goridanus the Finder) in order to really get a feel for their life and for the context in which they lived, who would would it be and why?
I think it would be fascinating to see the world though the eyes of the emperor Hadrian. He lived at the height of the empire, exercised astonishing power and wealth, traveled widely, and possessed enormous intellect and artistic sensibilities. Of course, he’s also a rather melancholy figure, with his obsession for Antinous, his young lover who died an untimely death. But I would like to know what made Hadrian tick, and I would love to see his villa outside Rome as it was in Hadrian’s lifetime. He’s a figure I haven’t yet attempted to portray in fiction.

The Roman Forum

Why do you think ancient Rome has such appeal? What inherent connections between past and present keep us so intrigued with an empire that fell 1500 years ago?
Part of the fascination springs from the fact that we have so much material to inspire us — all those surviving texts which have been translated and studied and which give us such a wide understanding of ancient Rome, from political speeches and trial orations to manuals on farming and cookbooks to erotic poetry. The literature allows us to enter ancient Rome through so many different portals. The remaining ruins and artifacts also ignite our imaginations. But ultimately I think it’s the glamour of certain historical figures, like Caesar and Cleopatra, that continually fascinates readers and audiences, beginning with Shakespeare and continuing without a break up to today.

The past year has seen a large number of articles and books comparing the United States to Rome. Do you think the comparison is an appropriate one?
I will be taking part in a panel on this very subject at the Texas Book Festival in Austin this fall, along with the authors of some of those books; hopefully we will have a lively discussion. In general, I don’t think such comparisons are valid; history is a river, and you can never enter the same spot twice. But a knowledge of the past is always useful for understanding human nature, and anything that increases our awareness of ancient Rome may lead to some insight into the present.There is certainly one great difference between the two empires, and in part it springs from the difference in their religions. The gods of the pagan Romans were delighted when their worshippers destroyed their enemies, and the hard-headed Romans had no qualms whatsoever about raping, pillaging and enslaving others; they openly boasted of it. The current Christianity of America doesn’t allow such unabashed delight in suffering and destruction, yet America’s imperial agenda entrails a lot of the same unpleasantness requisite to all imperial agendas throughout history. We have dealt with this by creating a new myth, that we are not really an empire at all. Seriously, the vast majority of Americans don’t even realize that they live in an empire. The shared fantasy is that we are naive innocents minding our own business who are repeatedly and regrettably compelled to react to external threats. This leads to a maddening disconnection from reality. Of course, the rulers at the top know exactly what they are doing, but the average American lives in a complete dream world. There was a bit of this kind of rationalization in ancient Rome — it was Carthage’s own fault that she had to be annihilated, the Gauls were just asking to be enslaved, and so on — but I suspect that the ancient Roman man in the street had a much firmer grasp of his country’s motives and aspirations than does the average American.

How much time do you spend in Rome now?
Far too little! It has been several years since my last trip. But I think I will make it back in 2008, especially since my work is finally being translated Into Italian. (Roman Blood, as Sangue su Roma, came out this year).

Can you give us a list of your favorite things to see and do when you’re in Rome?
I always head for St. Peter’s, to be awed by the magnificence of that interior space; I have seen nothing to rival it anywhere else on earth. All the ruins fascinate me, with an almost magical kind of power; many visitors never see Ostia, not realizing how easy it is to get to. And I have a rule never to pass a church without going inside, because you never know what completely unexpected treasure, beautiful or bizarre, may be inside.

18
Sep

The Orchestra di Piazza Vittorio

Orchestra di Piazza Vittorio

The Orchestra di Piazza Vittorio plays tonight at Rome’s Teatro dell’Opera. And then they’ll spend the next month traveling, so if you’re not in Rome catch them in Barcelona, New York, Santa Cruz, San Francisco, or Los Angeles in the coming month. Here’s why you should see them:

The Orchestra di Piazza Vittorio consists of 16 musicians from 11 countries, 4 continents and 8 different languages who come together to create a novel kind of music.

It’s hard to tell which aim was most ambitious: creating an orchestra of thirty foreign musicians with unrelated instruments from different personal, popular-music backgrounds, or saving Rome’s early-twentieth-century Apollo Cinema from becoming a bingo hall and, instead, transforming it into a multi-media, multi-ethnic theater. In the case of the Orchestra di Piazza Vittorio, it is safe to say that, at its purest and most devout, art begets art.

Filmmaker Agostino Ferrente and Avion Travel musician Mario Tronco, both native residents of the Piazza Vittorio neighborhood in Rome, endeavored to do both with the formation of The Orchestra di Piazza Vittorio. Drawing from the artistic population of this old area, they fused cultures and traditions, old and new sounds, unknown instruments and more than sixty ethnic groups (more foreign residents than Italians) to bring distant-yet-universal melodies to the public ear.

Orchestra di Piazza Vittorio

The resulting sound is hard to categorize—especially considering the various instruments and diverse artistic and geographic backgrounds of the musicians. It’s more than World Music; it’s Neighborhood Music: folk, classical, pop, jazz and the undeniable tones of the street. The fact that each musician feels represented by this album truly gives the sense of the entire project.

The Orchestra di Piazza Vittorio is already a sociological phenomenon welcomed enthusiastically by national and international media, studied by university professors, researchers and international conferences and celebrated by fans across the globe. Beyond its clear political and social value, the orchestra has become a mini-miracle of neighborhood and cultural initiative by bringing to the stage the traditions (musical and otherwise) from Tunisia, India, Africa, Cuba and beyond.

The story itself is a wildly popular film in Italy which depicts the epic five-year history of the orchestra, infused with ironic humor and astonishing persistence, as they struggle against ever-new obstacles, but ultimately succeed in creating this astounding musical group.

17
Sep

Rome Runs

CorriRoma

On the night between Saturday 15 September and Sunday 16 September, some three thousands runners took to Rome’s streets at 12:30am to participate in an annual nightime run called CorriRoma and organized by the Rome Marathon club.  The 11 kilometer course took participants around some of Rome’s most celebrated ancient monuments, including the Colosseum, as seen above.
A Moraccan runner named Laalami Cerqauoi was the first of the men to complete the course, crossing the finish line in 33 minutes and 22 seconds, while Barbara La Barbara from Palermo finished as the first woman in 39 minutes and 30 seconds.

17
Sep

Funny Furniture

Cartoon by Guido Crepax

Guido Crepax (1933-2003) - the inventor of ‘Valentina,’ an erotic comic character whose popularity soared in 1960s Italy and France - is being celebrated with a line of furniture developed by Opus Interiors. Crepax was hugely influential in the development of European comic art in the second half of the 20th century, publishing comic strips and books with his most famous character, Valentina Rosselli, from 1965 to 1995. (It’s Valentina who appears on the Opus Furniture.)

Guido Crepax furniture

With her appearance inspired by the silent film actress Louise Brooks, Valentina’s stories are psychedelic, provocative, and languidly hallucinatory in nature (perfect for the bedroom, no?)

In the city of Milan, Valentina, an accomplished young photographer, lives the high life. She stays out all night and sleeps until studio shoots begin at noon. Walking home alone one night (in order to avoid the unwanted advances of a director), Valentina is nearly run over by a cold blonde in a fancy car and it is there that her extravagant sexual adventures begin. From bisexuality to super-sensual abandon, as well as fevered dreams of nazis, underwear, and big holes in the ground. Crepax leaves it to his discerning adult audience to discover just what Valentina’s exotic adventures mean.

Valentina furniture with images by Guido Crepax




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