Archive for November, 2007

30
Nov

Photo Friday: Kicking off the Roman Holidays

Fur Boots in a Shop Window in Rome, Italy

Forget the practical gifts!  Take a stroll around Rome in these days leading up to Christmas and you’ll find endless fashionable luxury items that will please even the most discerning gift receiver on your list - like these lovely fur boots that photographer Susan Sanders photographed on Via del Babuino just a few days ago.

In celebration of the upcoming festivities, today we’re kicking of a series of posts called “Roman Holidays!”  For the month of December we’ll be blogging about Christmas in Rome - its festivities, its elaborate decorations, and the yummy treats associated with the holiday.  And for those of you who are looking to please the Ital-o-phile in your life with a special something under the tree, stay tuned!  We’ve got some great gift ideas (and do have a look back at our adopt a vine, adopt a sheep, and adopt an olive tree posts for further thoughts about finding that perfect present.)

So, check back often over the course of the next month!  It’s Rome for the Holidays!

29
Nov

Excessive Taxi-ation

Wildcat Taxi Strike in Rome

It’s turning out to be a rough week here in the Eternal City. For months Rome’s taxi fleet has been jockeying for a substantial increase in fares (25%) by means of citywide taxi strikes that make transport difficult, if not, at times, downright impossible. Yesterday, 28 November, the mayor’s office countered the demand of Rome’s tassisti by offering them an 18% fare increase, while at the same time announcing the distribution of 500 new taxi licenses.

Though for 6 of the 8 working hours of the day it’s impossible to find a taxi in this town, cab drivers are adamantly opposed to the issuing of more taxi licenses. Thus, upon hearing the mayoral pronouncement yesterday, representatives of the taxi companies stormed our of their meeting and called an immediate wildcat (wildcab?) strike. Hundreds of taxis blocked Piazza Venezia, the most important crossroads in the city center, making it virtually impossible for public or private vehicles to pass through the city.

Today saw more of the same, while tomorrow a national transportation strike affecting buses, subways, ships, and planes is on tap. So, we’re sitting tight here in the eCool compound!

Wildcat Taxi Strike in Rome

28
Nov

Mega Truffle Found in Tuscany

Mega Truffle Found in Tuscany

Via AP:

A white truffle weighing more than three pounds, dug up in Tuscany by a truffle-sniffing dog, will be auctioned this week in Florence for charity.

Truffle hunter Cristiano Savini said Tuesday he was searching for truffles with his father last week in Palaia, about 25 miles from Pisa, when his dog, Rocco, started sniffing “like crazy.”

With Rocco leashed to a tree to prevent him from digging too furiously, the Savinis carefully extracted a truffle they said weighed about 3.3 pounds, which they contended was a record.

The Guinness Book of World Records lists a 2.86-pound white truffle found in Croatia in 1999 as the biggest.

Cristiano’s father, Luciano, said the truffle had been weighed at the traffic police station in the nearby town of San Miniato, which issued a certificate attesting to its weight. The station said the officer involved in the weighing was not immediately available for comment.

On Tuesday, Cristiano Savini brought the truffle to Rome to publicize the planned auction, to be held Saturday in a palace in Florence.

Truffles can fetch $5,500 a pound in Rome, although they usually weigh from 1 to 2.8 ounces. Slivers of truffles, with their strong aroma, are prized in Italy to flavor pasta sauces and rice dishes.

Proceeds from the auction will go to an Italian organization that helps sufferers of genetic diseases, a group that helps street children in London and Catholic charities in Macau.

27
Nov

Roman Holidays: Adopt a Vine!

Adopt a Vine in Italy!Whether you’re looking for the perfect holiday gift for the Ital-o-phile who has everything, or whether you’re searching for ways to strengthen your own bond with the Italy by investing in the production of its best agricultural products, have we got an idea for you!

Last month we showed you how to adopt an Italian olive tree (and thereby reap the benefits of its produce) and yesterday we filled you in on all the details of adopting a sheep in the Abruzzo (you can already smell the pecorino cheese every time you open the refrigerator, can’t you?). Today we move on to wine, that nectar for which the boot-shaped peninsula receives so much praise, as we tell you how to support local Italian viticulture by adopting a vine.

Adopt a Vine in Italy with Nobili Terra The founding members of Nobili Terre, a not-for-profit organization, are the brainchilds behind this clever intitiative, the purpose of which is that of informing the public about wine-making and involving them in the process, while promoting local economic growth. So what are the details? The English version of Nobili Terre website is are a bit confusing, so we’ll walk you through the process.

The cost of becoming a virtual wine producer euro 360, which is paid in the form of a donation to the Nobili Terre organization and will be used to support a row of vines for a year in a region of Italy of your choosing. If you’re a fan of Italy’s well-known red wines, you might go for Piedmont where you can support the production of Barbera, Dolcetto, Grignolino, and Brachetto grapes; for Tuscany, where Chianti and Morellino are grown; or you might instead choose to support the making of Sicily’s up-and-coming Nero d’Avola. Prefer white? Then you’ll want to choose Lombardy with its Rieslings or the Veneto and its Proseccos.

Once that tough decision is made, you fill out a contract (at the moment it seems to be available on the web only in Italian) and send payment to Nobili Terre, thereby becoming a virtual wine maker!

As an investor in the Nobili Terre vineyards, you are invited to particpate in such activities as the vendemmia or grape harvest, the wine-making, and the bottling and labeling. If you can’t be there, then over the course of the year you’ll receive updates about your vines and about the process of wine-making. Finally, at the end of the year, your good efforts will be heartily rewarded when 60 bottles of wine made from your vines (or similar ones) will become your very own (shipping is not included in the euro 360 fee).

If you’re giving this as a gift or want to make those 60 bottles extra-special, you can even request personalized labeling and packing in customized wooden boxes.

For more information see the Nobili Terre website or contact them at info@nobiliterre.eu

Adopt a Vine in Italy!

26
Nov

Roman Holidays: Adopt a Sheep in the Abruzzo!

Adopt a Sheep!

Last month’s post on adopting an olive tree in Italy proved so popular that we’ve been scurrying about looking for other things that might be adopted! It seems that E-Cool readers are eager for gifting and investment opportunities that are socially responsibile.

So, if you’re looking for a holiday gift for the person who loves Italy but has everything, we’ve got another idea or two that may help you with your shopping list.

We begin today with the charming opportunity to adopt a sheep in the Abruzzo, a mountainous region in central Italy. The sheep adoption program was created by a farmers’ cooperative in a medieval village in order to preserve an ancient profession that has been characteristic of the region for 3000 years - sheep-herding.

Before World War II there were some 3 million sheep in Abruzzo. Now the herds number about 350,000 - and it’s not just sheep that are in short supply. The region is one of the more depopulated parts of the country as traditional sheep farming dwindles and young people move to the cities.

”People have tended sheep in this area for the last 2,000 years, and we want it to continue for another 2,000,” said Manuela Cozzi, who with her husband’s family runs an organic sheep cooperative and an ”agritourism” inn in Anversa degli Abruzzi. ”Sheep around here are in danger of becoming an endangered species, and we hope this initiative will help prevent that.”

But it’s not just the sheep that are protected when you decide to make a little Italian lamb your own. Your contribution also helps to protect organic industries associated with sheep-herding - some of which your stomach (and feet) will find extremely pleasing - such as cheese-making, sausage-making, and the local processing of wool.

So how does it work? There are several levels of participation.

An annual contribution of euro 190 will win you:

  • adoption papers, along with your lamb’s childhood photos, and a chronicle of shearing, milking, birthing
  • 2 kilos of pecorino cheese (yumm!)
  • 2 kilos of juniper smoked ricotta (even yummier!)
  • 1 kilo of sheep salami (or caciocavallo cheese if you’re vegetarian)
  • one pair of 100% virgin wool hiking socks
  • 5 liters of olive oil

If you’re looking to pay a bit less, donation of euro 140 will fill your pantry with the goodness of organic Italian cheeses:

  • adoption papers, along with your lamb’s childhood photos, and a chronicle of shearing, milking, birthing
  • 3 kilos of pecorino cheese (yumm!)
  • 1 kilo of juniper smoked ricotta (even yummier!)
  • 1 kilo of sheep salami (or caciocavallo cheese if you’re vegetarian)
  • one pair of 100% virgin wool hiking socks

Finally, there’s even an option for the budget conscious. A contribution of euro 80 won’t fill your pantry with the goodness of organic Italian cheeses, buy you’ll get an opportunity to visit the new wild-n-wooly member of your family:

  • adoption papers, along with your lamb’s childhood photos, and a chronicle of shearing, milking, birthing
  • one pair of 100% virgin wool hiking socks
  • a voucher for a one-person, one day stay (meals included) at the agriturismo that’s organizing the effort

How to get started? Click here for a contract in English. Just print it, fill it out, and send it with payment to the Porta dei Parchi agriturismo!

Adopt a Sheep!

25
Nov

The Italian Temples of Damanhur

Temples of Damanhur Today the Daily Mail carries an article about a most unusual underground architectural complex in the foothills of the Alps in northern Italy, 30 miles from Turin, in the valley of Valchiusella. There, 100 feet under the ground, are nine temples excavated into five underground levels. They occupy some 300,000 cubic feet and their mosaic, glass, painted, and sculptural decoration (with the largest Tiffany cupola in the world) narrates the history of humanity.

The astounding temple complex belongs to a spiritual community called Damanhur that has 800 members, a social and political structure, a constitution, 40 economic activities, its own currency, schools, and a daily newspaper. Founded by Oberto Airaudi in 1977, the Damanhur community is something like a mystical school, for it disregards the boundaries and constraints that we as humans have set upon ourselves.

Temples of Damanhur

One of the goals of Damanhur is the re-awakening of the human being; as a spiritual, material, divine being, free from patterns that reduce its essence. In Damanhur every citizen chooses one of the spiritual paths called ‘ways’ to experiment with their spiritual growth, according to their own aspirations, preferences, and skills. In Damanhur the most significant aspects of the day and year are marked by ritual moments in which the meaning and the awareness of existence is celebrated.

No doubt, the Temples of Damanhur (named, by the way, for the ancient subterranean Egyptian temple and meaning City of Light) are part of those rituals.

Temples of Damanhur

The little known temple complex was begun by Oberto Airaudi - who prefers to use the name ‘Falco’ - in 1977. It was built entirely in secret (no planning permits had been granted by the Italian government) by Damanhur volunteers who came from all around the world and worked in four-hour shifts for the next 16 years with no formal plans other than Falco’s sketches and visions, funding their scheme by setting up small businesses to serve the local community. By 1991, several of the nine chambers were almost complete with stunning murals, mosaics, statues, secret doors and stained glass windows - but the secret was about to become known to the public.

As Hazel Courtney recounts in her Daily Mail article:

The first time the police came it was over alleged tax evasion and still the temples lay undiscovered. But a year later the police swooped on the community demanding: “Show us these temples or we will dynamite the entire hillside.”

Falco and his colleagues duly complied and opened the secret door to reveal what lay beneath.

Three policemen and the public prosecutor hesitantly entered, but as they stooped down to enter the first temple - named the Hall of the Earth - their jaws dropped.

Inside was a circular chamber measuring 8m in diameter.

A central sculpted column, depicting a three dimensional man and woman, supported a ceiling of intricately painted glass.

The astonished group walked on to find sculpted columns covered with gold leaf, more than 8m high.

Stunned by what they had found, the authorities decided to seize the temples on behalf of the government.

Eventually, the group was allowed to continue its work and the underground temple complex is now the subject of a book, Temples of Damanhur, by Silvia Buffagni, Alex Grey, Rob Calef, and Roberto Benzi.

Temples of Damanhur

24
Nov

Text & the City: Left of Center

Ad for Italian newspaper, Il Manifesto

Here at the Eternally Cool Compound, we’re declared it to be Text & the City week, so all of our posts have payed homage to the written word - and what an amazing week it’s been!

We’ve seen Rome’s allure broadcast by Romantic writers and we’ve even visited the site at which the poet John Keats drew his final breath. We’ve celebrated a new novel that updates the classical gods and gives them a place in our own contemporary, as well as a old inscription that gave rise to the modern serif fonts we use on our computers daily, while still managing to find inspiration in artist Jenny Holzer’s textual projections on the Eternal City.

Today, however, our thoughts turn to the giornalio or newspaper stand, a pleasurable stop in the daily routine of every avid reader in Rome. Placed on street corners and in piazzas, these fabulous kiosks carry everything from Italian newspapers to fashion magazines to international publications. They’re loaded with movies, cds, books, and maps, as well as toys, bus tickets, and “free prizes” gained by the purchase of one glossy publication or another.

In Trastevere, the part of town where the E-Cool Compound is located, one of the most popular purchases at such a giornalio is Il Manifesto, a communist newspaper founded as a monthly review in 1969 by a collective of left-wing journalists. Il Manifesto has recently gained a reputation in Italy for its bitter and sarcastic headlines as well as its often brilliant puns, enhanced by a clever choice of photographs. For example, on the day of the election of Pope Benedict XVI, the first page of Il Manifesto featured a large photo of the newly-elected pope, along with the title The German Shepherd (see photo below).

Whether one is in agreement with the political stance taken by Il Manifesto or not, the daily newspaper is regarded almost unanimously as a notable example of creative and clever journalism. And, from this day forward it should also be regarded as a source of inspired advertising. Their newest ad campaign (see top photo) features a keyboard being used by two left hands, an assurance, no doubt, that Il Manifesto’s political stance is far left of center.

The Name, Rome, Italy
Creative Directors: Luca Albanese, Francesco Taddeucci
Art Director: Emanuele Pulvirenti
Copywriter: Filippo Testa
Photographer: Vincenzo Micarelli
Published: November 2007

Il Pastore Tedesco Headline in Il Manifesto

23
Nov

Photo Friday for Text & the City: A City of Words

Jenny Holzer in Rome

Photographer Susan Sanders has jumped on board our week-long celebration of the written word in Rome. Thus, on this Photo Friday, she offers us a vision of Rome as a city of words. The photograph above was taken in Summer 2007 when artist Jenny Holzer staged a series of textual projections in the Eternal City. Here, words slide across the Tiber River before creeping up its embankments and scaling the heights of Castel Sant’Angelo.

What if words were visible and tactile objects? What if we could see and feel all that is been spoken and expressed in a dense and crowded city like Rome? These questions remind us of a passage from Jeanette Winterson’s book, Sexing the Cherry, in which she describes a city in which words are more than sound-filled breaths of air that escape from our mouths:

The streets are badly lit and the distance from one side to the other no more than the span of my arms. The stone crumbles, the cobbles are uneven. The people who throng the streets shout at each other, their voices rising from the mass of heads and floating upwards towards the church spires and the great copper bells that clang the end of the day. Their words, rising up, form a thick cloud over the city, which every so often must be thoroughly cleansed of too much language. Men and women in balloons fly up from the main square and, armed with mops and scrubbing brushes, do battle with the canopy of words trapped under the sun.

The words resist erasure. The oldest and most stubborn form a thick crush of chattering rage. Cleaners have been bitten by words still quarrelling, and in one famous lawsuit a woman whose mop had been eaten and whose hand was badly mauled by a vicious row sought to bring the original antagonists to court. The men responsible made their defense on the grounds that the words no longer belonged to them. Years had passed. Was it their fault if the city had failed to deal with its overheads? The judge ruled against the plantiff but ordered the city to buy her a new mop. She was not satisfied, and was later found lining the chimneys of her accused with vitriol.

I once accompanied a cleaner in a balloon and was amazed to hear, as the sights of the city dropped away, a faint murmuring like bees. The murmuring grew louder and louder till it sounded like the clamoring of birds, then like the deafening noise of schoolchildren let out for the holidays. She pointed with her mop and I saw a vibrating mass of many colors appear before us. We could no longer speak to each other and be heard.

She aimed her mop at a particularly noisy bright red band of words who, from what I could make out, had escaped from a group of young men on their way home from a brothel. I could see from the set of my companion’s mouth that she found this particular job distasteful, but she persevered, and in a few moments all that remained was the fading pink of a few ghostly swear-words.

For more images of language made immortal by Jenny Holzer’s Rome projections, click here, here, here and here. And visit Susan Sanders’ photo blog to see more of her compelling views of Rome.

22
Nov

Text & the City: The Trajanic Inscription

The Forum of Trajan & Trajan's Column

As many readers are aware, we’re dedicating this week to an examination of Text & the Eternal City. From the Romantic writers who lived and died in Rome in the 18th and 19th centuries to contemporary novels that bring the ancient gods back to life, we’re reading Rome.

Thus, it seems only appropriate that we turn our attention today to the oldest form of public communication known in the Eternal City - the inscription. Wandering the streets of Rome, one sees them everywhere, from the SPQRs emblazoned on monuments city-wide to the more wordy inscriptions that commemorate great achievements of Roman Emperors. Among the most studied and best known of these inscriptions is that found on the base of the Column of Trajan, commemorating the Emperor’s achievements:

Inscription from the Column of Trajan

With abbreviations expanded, the inscription reads:

SENATUS POPULUSQUE ROMANUS
IMPERATORI CAESARI DIVI NERVAE FILIO NERVAE
TRAIANO AUGUSTO GERMANICO DACICO PONTIFICI
MAXIMO TRIBUNICIA POTESTATE XVII IMPERATORI VI CONSULI VI PATRI PATRIAE
AD DECLARANDUM QUANTAE ALTITUDINIS
MONS ET LOCUS TAN<TIS OPE>RIBUS SIT EGESTUS

Which translates to:

The Senate and People of Rome. To the Divine Emperor Caesar Nerva Trajan Augustus Germanicus Dacicus, son of Nerva, Pontifex Maximus, invested with the Tribunican Power for the 17th time, Consul for the 6th time, Father of the Fatherland, to testify, this place and tower of such height was carried out.

Reconstruction of the Forum of Trajan

The column below which this inscription is found is part of a large and splendid complex of buildings created by Trajan in the early second century AD. Comprising a public gathering space, a basilica or law court, Greek and Roman libraries, and (perhaps) a temple dedicated to Trajan after his death, this huge urban space was recognized as being among the most beautiful place in all of Rome. In fact, when the Roman Emperor Constantius II visited Rome for the first time in the year 357 AD (by that point in time Constantinople was the capital of the Roman Empire), the wonderment and awe he experienced when seeing the Forum of Trajan was recorded by the writer Ammianus Marcellinus:

But when he came to the Forum of Trajan, a creation which in my view has no like under the cope of heaven and which even the gods themselves must agree to admire, he stood transfixed with astonishment, surveying the giant fabric around him; its grandeur defies description and can never again be approached by mortal men.

Base of the Column of Trajan

Yet, despite the fame of the Forum of Trajan in antiquity, the inscription below the Column of Trajan is probably more celebrated by typographers of the 20th and 21st centuries, than it was by ancient Romans for it provides the best example of classic Roman letterforms and thereby has influenced the many serif fonts that we use today.

Among those who have studied the inscription and its impact on modern typography is Father Edward Catich - a 20th-century scholar at St. Ambrose University in Iowa - who used the inscription to reconstruct how the Romans made their capital letter shapes. In his hand-lettered book, The Trajan Inscription in Rome, he hypothesized that the letter forms first were sketched using a flat square-tipped brush, using only three or four quick strokes to form each letter, and that the characteristic variations in line thickness were formed by the changing cant of the brush. The letters then were cut in the stone by the same person (and not, Catich contended, separately by scribe and stone mason), the illusion of form being created by shadow.

The symmetry and balance of the Trajanic inscription convinced Catich that “the Trajan alphabet is the best Roman letter designed in the Western world, and the one which most nearly approaches an alphabetic ideal.” And, indeed, the inscription is often credited with being the inspiration for all subsequent Roman capital letter forms.

21
Nov

Text & the City: Those Gods Must Be Crazy

Gods Behaving Badly
Here at E-Cool we’re myth-o-holics. We love nothing more on a winter afternoon than settling down in a cozy chair to read a good mythological tale. Or, even better, settling down to read a modern re-working of a good mythological tale. Thus, we’re thrilled to take some time out of our Olympian schedules this week to tell you about a hilarious new books that fast-forwards the gods right into the 21st century.

The debut novel of British author Marie Phillips, Gods Behaving Badly, finds the Olympian gods and goddesses living in a tumbledown house in modern-day London and facing a very serious problem: their powers are waning, and immortality does not seem guaranteed. In between looking for work and keeping house, the ancient family is still up to its oldest pursuit: crossing and double-crossing each other.

Apollo, who has been cosmically bored for centuries, has been appearing as a television psychic in a bid for stardom. His aunt Aphrodite, a phone-sex worker, sabotages him by having her born-again Christian son Eros shoot him with an arrow of love, making him fall for a very ordinary mortal-a cleaning woman named Alice, who happens to be in love with Neil, another nice, retiring mortal. When Artemis-the goddess of the moon, chastity and the hunt, who has been working as a dog walker-hires Alice to tidy up, the household is set to combust, and the fate of the world hangs in the balance.

Whether you know your mythology or not, Gods Behaving Badly is full of hilarious read-aloud passages that showcase the Phillips’ uncanny ability to fast-forward the immortals and made them part of our modern and familiar world. We can’t recommend it more if you’re looking for a light-hearted read that brings the ancient gods to life.




 

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