Archive for December, 2007



26
Dec

Wine for Life

Wine for Life

For several years now, sixty top Italian winemakers have participating in a program that raises money to fight AIDS in sub-Saharan Africa. The wineries buy round, red and blue “Wine for Life” stickers (see below) from the non-profit Sant’Egidio Community charity for a half-euro each (about 61 cents) and affix them to bottles of one of their best wines (they agree not to pass the cost on to consumers).

To support the project while drinking some very fine vino, look for wines by these wineries, and then look for bottles bearing the “Wine for Life” stickers.

Wine for Life

25
Dec

Roman Holidays: Merry Christmas!

Christmas Tree at the Colosseum

Merry Christmas from Rome! More Roman Holidays updates coming up in the next week - so stay tuned! In the meantime, happy holidays to all!

24
Dec

Roman Holidays: A Christmas Eve Market Tour

Fish Monger in Rome's Testaccio Market
As with most Italian holidays, eating is a very important part of Christmas and it requires a lot of preparation. Thus the open-air markets and grocery stores were teaming with shoppers today, all of whom were searching for the freshest and tastiest ingredients they could find for their holiday celebrations. It’s our goal to share some of that food excitement with you today and so we bring you a photo tour of the open-air market in Rome’s Testaccio neighborhood.

Traditionally, the Catholic Church asked Christmas Eve be kept as a day of fasting and abstinence (the Code of Canon Law eliminated this fast in 1983) and thus the traditional Christmas Eve meal in Rome is one of fish rather than meat. Today, the fish stands were loaded with riches (see above), the most treasured of which are the capitone or eel (see below). Shoppers in the know search for a big female eel and serve it roasted, baked, or fried (it’s also preferible to purchase it alive and and conveniently kill it in your own kitchen sink in order to insure freshness).

Eels in Rome's Testaccio Market

Eating takes all evening and though each family’s meal varies, they all include a large number of courses (7, 9, and 11 are common) and often feature a menu somewhat like this one:

Antipasto of olives and marinated eel
Fish stock
Pasta with tomato and tuna sauce
Boiled cod with tomatoes, onions, pine nuts, and raisins
Broccoli
Eel
Panettone and/or Nougat for dessert

Fish in Rome's Testaccio Market

23
Dec

Lost and Found at the Quirinale Palace

Nostoi Exhibit at the Quirinale Palace

Currently on exhibit at Rome’s Quirinale Palace are 68 archaeological artifacts returned (or recovered by Carabinieri) to Italy from museums in the United States and elsewhere after being illegally excavated, exported, and sold.

Among the star-studded objects on view is the Euphronios krater (above left - it won’t actually be on view in the exhibit until the middle of January), sometimes known as the Sarpedon krater, an ancient Greek bowl used for mixing wine with water which was created around the year 515 BC.  Formerly in the collection of the Metropolitan  Museum of art, it is considered one of the finest Greek vases in existence. Of the surviving 27 vases painted by the renowned Euphronios, it is the only complete example.  The krater is decorated with two scenes. An episode from the Trojan War is shown on the obverse; this illustration depicts the death of Sarpedon, son of Zeus and Laodamia. The reverse of the krater shows a contemporary scene of Athenian youths from the 6th century BC arming themselves before battle. In the scene of Sarpedon’s death, the god Hermes directs Sleep and Death to carry the fallen away to his homeland for burial.

Also on display is a Attic black figure hydria depicting horsemen by the Antimenes painter in the 4th century AD (above right).

Nostoi Exhibit at the Quirinale Palace

Equally lovely is the ivory face from a sculpture of Juno or Apollo that was made in the first century AD (above left) and the Attic red-figure kantharos featuring a Dionysian mask on one side (that shown in the photo above, right) and a mask of a satyr on the other side.  The vase is sometimes attributed to the Euphronios painter and dates to the fifth century BC.

The marble sculpture shown below is also part of the exhibit.  Dating to the fourth century BC, it shows two griffins attacking a deer and comes from a princely tomb in Ascoli Satriano, near Foggia.

These and 60 other returned and recovered objects can be seen at the Quirinale Palace until 2 March. More than half of the exhibit’s artifacts are pieces returned by the J. Paul Getty Museum in Los Angeles.  The exhibit is titled “Nostoi: Returned Masterpieces,” which refers to a poem referring to the return of heroes from the Trojan War.

Nostoi Exhibit at the Quirinale Palace

23
Dec

Roman Holidays:

Puppets at Rome's Piazza Navona Christmas Fair

Today a quick snapshot of the puppet booth at Rome’s Christmas Fair in Piazza Navona!  Here at the eCool compound we’re partial to the skull and devil puppets in the bottom left of the photo, though its tempting to leave the stylishly-dressed Big Bad Wolf (middle left) in any number of stockings!

22
Dec

Roman Holidays: It’s Saturnalia!

The Temple of Saturn in Rome's Forum RomanumIn ancient Rome, the dark and the cold of midwinter brought with them the feast of Saturn, the god of sowing and of agriculture. Saturn’s holiday, the Saturnalia, was meant to celebrate the end of autumn planting. Initially, it was held on December 17th but over time, the “Saturnalia season” was lengthened to about a week, provoking complaints from Roman scrooges who tired of the seemingly endless gift-giving, the requisite good cheer, and the non-stop revelry.

The ancient writer Lucian provides us with a lively account of the celebrations. In his Saturnalia, he assumes the voice of the god Saturn, and tells us just what is expected of the merry-makers:

During my week the serious is barred; no business allowed! Drinking, noise, and games and dice, appointing of kings and feasting of slaves, singing naked, clapping of frenzied hands, an occasional dunking of faces in icy water – such are the functions over which I preside!

Because it was a religious celebration, the Saturnalia began with a sacrifice to Saturn, which was made at his temple in the Roman Forum. The religious ritual was followed by a public feast - reason enough for the Romans to throw off their cumbersome togas and to don lightweight dressing gowns and pilei (soft red caps). After enjoying the banquet, everyone ran through the streets shouting, “Io Saturnalia!

But the fun had just begun! For the duration of the Saturnalia, everyone was on vacation. No public business could be transacted, the law courts were closed, schools were on holiday, gambling was allowed in public, and it was considered impious to begin a war.

Even slaves were given a break from the monotony of the daily routine. Granted temporary freedom, they did not have to perform their usual daily tasks, and they were treated to a banquet prepared by their masters, who also waited upon them at the table.

Saturnalia gifts were purchased for friends and family. Wax candles and clay figurines were the most common gifts, but for those tired of the same old routine, stationary, togas, alabaster bottles, and jars of plums also made appropriate presents. Then, just as now, shopping for the perfect gift was difficult. The first-century writer, Martial, made a list of presents that would impress the man or woman who had everything: live mullets, a peacock-feather fly-whisk, and snow strainers. Hard to find in the shops, but worth the effort!

In a witty epigrams, Martial also tells us that re-gifting was already standard practice in ancient Rome:

Regifted (Epigram VII.53)

Last Saturnalia, friend, I think
You must have passed along
To me each little gift you got
Yourself; now am I wrong?
Twelve tablets, seven toothpicks came;
Sponge, napkin, cup not far
Behind, a half a peck of beans,
Some olives, a black jar
Of cheap new wine, some withered prunes,
Some figlets (not too big),
And a monstrous heavy urn, filled up
With another kind of fig.
I’d say these gifts, in all, were worth
30 sesterces or less,
But eight huge Syrian slaves were needed
To carry the whole mess.

I have a better plan: next year
When you’re sending gifts to me
You’ll find one boy could tote five pounds
Of silver easily.

Translation Dorthea Wender

The Temple of Saturn in Rome's Forum Romanum

22
Dec

This is Rome!

Miroslav Sasek's This is Rome

Almost half a century ago, Miroslav Sasek became celebrated for his This Is… series of books that introduced children to exotic locales worldwide.  A generation of world travelers was charmed by Sasek’s brilliant, vibrant illustrations, but then the books went out of print.

Universe Publishing to the rescue! Over the past few years, Universe has been releasing facsimile editions of classic series, allowing new generations to enjoy the wonderful illustrations.

Miroslav Sasek's This is Rome
Today, we celebrate his This is Rome book, first published in 1960 and re-released in 2006.  It’s a great gift for children and adults alike!  This is Rome traces the history of Roman civilization, bringing to life the Rome of the 60’s. Sasek navigates Rome’s busy, winding streets to visit such glorious historical landmarks as the sculptures by Michelangelo, Vatican City, the Pantheon, and the Fontana di Trevi.  Along the way, he showcases some of the eccentricities of modern Roman life, from its colorful trains, trams, and taxis to its chic espresso bars and pasta houses.

Miroslav Sasek's This is Rome

21
Dec

Photo Friday: A-Weigh in the Manger

A-Weigh in the Manger

It’s Photo Friday and in celebration of the Roman Holidays, Susan Sanders gives us a bit of A-Weigh in the Manger improv. Having passed his just-born health tests, the baby Jesus is a-weighed in. Look for his birth announcement to be arriving in your mailbox sometime soon!

For more photos by Susan, visit her Rome With A View blog.

21
Dec

Good News from the Vatican

Sistine Chapel Ceiling

Both visitors and residents of Rome alike usually find it quite a hassle to visit the Vatican Museums.  Traditionally, the hours have been short and the crowds massive.  But, starting in 2008, the Vatican is imposing new hours with hopes of remedying the situation.

From 2 January 2008, the Vatican Museums and the Sistine Chapel will be open from 8:30am to 6:00pm, with the last entrance at 4:00pm.  The entrance fee will also go up this year - from 13 euro to 14 euro.

For a complete schedule of Vatican Museum & Sistine Chapel hours for 2008, visit the Vatican Museums website.

21
Dec

Roman Holidays: Celebrating Ancient Roman Style

Happy Saturnalia

We know that many eCool readers will enjoy the recent post by Mary Beard, professor in classics at Cambridge and classics editor of the Times Literary Supplement, on the ancient Roman tradition of celebrating Saturnalia in mid-December.

We’ll be posting our own article on the ancient holiday in the next few days, but this one will get you started if you’re looking to celebrate all’antica. Click here to read Beard’s Five Things the Romans Did at Christmas.




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