Archive for January 27th, 2008

27
Jan

Rosso Pompeiano : Pompeiian Red

Ancient Roman Frescoes

When the volcano Vesuvius erupted in 79 AD, it destroyed the cities of Pompeii and Herculaneum, as well as a host of luxury villas overlooking the Bay of Naples. That ancient tragedy was a gift to the modern world: the pumice and ash that filled homes and displaced tens of thousands of people, also served to preserve the elaborate mural paintings that embellished residential structures.

The rediscovery of Pompeii and Herculaneum in the mid-18th century and its subsequent (and still ongoing) excavation have made it clear that ancient Romans lived in houses that were much more elaborately decorated than our own. While the walls - and sometimes the ceiling vaults - of upper-class Roman abodes featured extraordinary embellishment undertaken by the era’s most exclusive artists, even lesser houses seem to have had at one or two painted rooms at the very least.

Ancient Roman Frescoes

Where and how to see these frescoes? A trip to Pompeii won’t serve you that well as many of the most elaborate frescoes were removed from the contexts in which they were discovered during early excavations. The permanent home for most of the detached frescoes is the National Archaeological Museum in Naples, but much to the frustration of many tourists, that collection of frescoes has been closed for many years due to ongoing museum rennovation.

But don’t despair! From now until 20 March, approximately 100 frescoes from the Naples Archaeological Museum have made their way to Rome and are on exhibit at the National Archaeological Museum at the Palazzo Massimo alle Terme (photographs in this post show details of these remarkable paintings).

Ancient Roman Frescoes

Technically, the frescoes convince any viewer that the Romans were utterly and completely concerned with the creation of images that depicted a world much like our own. The human bodies shown are anatomically correct and they move and occupy space in a manner similar to our own. As well, any number of illusionistic frescoes make it clear that the Romans understood how to show three-dimensional perspective on a two-dimensional surface, for they go to great lengths to create images that make it appear as if the wall surface has disappeared and one is looking out into a garden, a landscape, or a world of fantastic architecture.

The subjects of the paintings likewise remind us that the Roman art addressed a variety of subjects, from every day life to myth to history. In one fresco, listeners surround a female musician (see image below), while in another a still life shows the dried fruits, mushrooms, and moray eels that could be found in the pantry of a wealthy Roman kitchen. In the realm of myth, the Trojan warrior Aeneas shares a tender embrace with Queen Dido (above, right) in one image, while the baby Hercules wrestles with snakes sent by the goddess Juno to kill him in another. And, a series of stunning dining rooms from a villa that perhaps belonged to the emperor Nero remind us that such decoration is not just an exercise in aesthetics, but that images often carry social and political meaning, for in these rooms Nero seems to pronounce his concern with the development of the area around the Sarno River on the Bay of Naples.

A few more recent discoveries also are included in the exhibition. These include an entire room from a Pompeii home decorated with garden motifs as well as frescoes of deities on a red background from an ancient hotel found in 2000 during construction of a highway near the site.

Ancient Roman Fresco

Photos by Susan Sanders

Exhibition open from 09.00-19.45, Tuesday-Sunday. Closed Mondays. National Archaeological Museum at Palazzo Massimo alle Terme. Largo di Villa Peretti 1.

27
Jan

What to Eat in the Roman Winter

A Wealth of Winter Vegetables from Rome, Italy

When one thinks of Rome, one thinks of food. And when one thinks of Roman food, one thinks of pizza and pasta slathered with rich, delicious tomato sauce and embellished with juicy slices of eggplant, tasty charred bits of roasted red pepper, and sweet crispy

But that’s summer food! Head off to a Roman market in the winter and you’ll notice that the tomatoes, the peppers, the eggplant and the zucchini seem a little anemic and that they’re sporting price tags that threaten to break the bank.

So, if those cliched standards are out, what’s one to eat in Rome in the winter? Given the mild climate in central Italy, there’s no shortage of delicious things out there and a trip to the market will produce baskets full of richly-colored cold-weather vegetables that will please both eye and stomach.

Take, for example, the photo above, taken after yesterday morning’s visit to the organic market that happens every second and last Sunday of the month on Vicolo della Moretta. There’s bunches and bunches of beautiful baby carrots, a butternut squash, kohl rabi, and some brilliantly colored radicchio that’s just begging to be sprinkled with olive oil and balsamic vinegar and roasted in the oven.

Winter Vegetables from Rome, Italy

Or there’s the fine examples above: a broccoli romanesco (sometimes called a minaret for its unusual shape); a bunch of cavolo nero that’s so green it’s almost black in color; and a head of green radicchio that seems to have been splattered with red paint.

What to do with all of this? There’s a world of vegetable soups and stews that keep us warm here at the eCool compound, but our absolute favorite winter dish is a pesto made of cavolo nero. The recipe comes from the River Cafe Italian Country Cookbook by Ruth Rogers and Rose Gray.

Winter Pesto of Cavolo Nero

2 1/2 lbs cavolo nero leaves

4 garlic cloves, peeled

1 cup extra-virgin olive oil

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper (we add pepperoncino too)

Remove the stems of the cavolo nero leaves, but keep the leaves whole. (Hey, we don’t even remove the stems. We just cut off the thickest part of the ends.) Blanch them in a generous amount of boiling slated water along with 2 garlic cloves for a few minutes only. Drain well. Put the blanched garlic and cavolo nero into the food processor and pulse/chop to a fairly coarse puree. In the last couple of seconds, pour into the processor about 5 tablespoons of the oil. This makes a fairly liquid, dark green (and utterly delicious) puree.

Crush the remaining 2 garlic cloves with 1 tablespoon of sea salt (and some pepperoncino). Stir into the puree along with a further 5 tablespoons of oil. Season to taste.

Use as you would a summer basil pesto, stirring into hot pasta until all the pasta is thickly coated. Add olive oil and grated parmesan as necessary or desirable.

Winter Vegetables from Rome, Italy




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