Archive for March, 2008



11
Mar

The Via Giulia Celebrates its 500th Birthday!

Pope Julius II and the Via Giulia in Rome

When Pope Julius II della Rovere was crowned in the year 1503, it was the fulfillment of his lifelong dream. The new and powerful pope thought of himself as the upholder of several traditions: his uncle, Sixtus IV, had been pope from 1471-1484, so Julius’s election as Pontiff was a means of keeping the title in the family; while as temporal ruler of Rome, the new pope could also think of himself as heir to the power of the Roman Emperors and reviver of the splendors of Imperial Rome.

As was common in the Renaissance, Julius chose to convey such ideas by means of an elaborate program of art and architecture commissioned from such superstars as Michelangelo, Raphael, and Bramante. A respected art historian, Howard Hibbard, both characterized and praised Julius II’s patronage of the arts in the following mannner:

Julius II operated as a patron on a scale and on a level of quality that make him equal to the artists we associate with him: Bramante, Raphael, Michelangelo. If, as many believe, this was the greatest assembly of talent ever to work for one man at the same time, we must hail Julius as the most perspicacious as well as the most fortunate patron the world has ever known. (cited from Hibbard’s Michelangelo, London, 1986, p. 86)

Among Julius’s artistic achievements are those of commissioning Michelangelo to paint the Sistine Chapel Ceiling, asking Raphael to fresco his private apartments or stanze in the Vatican Palace, and assigning Bramante the task of tearing down Old St. Peter’s Basilica and constructing a new one.

Yet, like any good Roman Emperor, Julius was interested in the greater well-being of the city and therefore worked even beyond the bounds of the Vatican. As temporal ruler, the pope was responsible for making changes that would improve the city fabric and help restore Rome to a level of beauty and majesty akin that it had achieved in antiquity.

The idea of being a caretaker of the city was one that had been passed down through the della Rovere family, for Julius’s own uncle, Pope Sixtus IV, had himself been a restorer of Rome, replacing an old and ruined Roman bridge over the Tiber with the new Ponte Sisto, thereby connecting one of the city’s most populated areas with the neighborhood Trastevere (the bridge still functions today - see image below).

Rome's Ponte Sisto, built by Pope Sixtus IV

Following his uncle’s lead, Julius commissioned his architect Bramante to create several long straight streets in Rome, starting in 1508. Among them was the Via Giulia - named for the pope himself - which was meant to connect Sixtus’s Ponte Sisto (as well as the city’s most densely populated area) with the Vatican, thereby allowing for easier movement of people and commercial goods. The street - about a kilometer in length - was to be the longest straight street cut in Rome since antiquity and Julius intended that the project should not just improve Rome’s infrastructure, but should also better city administration, for he asked Bramante to design a giant streetside palace that would house the Roman judiciary and notary courts, the Palazzo dei Tribunali.

The project was begun in 1508 but progressed slowly. It was not yet finished when Julius died in 1513 and though the street itself would be completed, the project for the monumental administrative center was abandoned. (The large, rusticated travertine blocks with which Bramante began the project are now incorporated into one of Rome’s hippest hotels, the Saint George. Click here to read our story.)

Today the Via Giulia celebrates its 500th birthday with a year-long array of concerts, guided tours, and special openings. You can check out the schedule here. The inaugural event occurs tonight when the Sistine Chapel Choir gives a concert in honor of the Papal thoroughfare in the church of San Giovanni dei Fiorentini. (We’re quite sure that Julius would be thrilled to have the Sistine Chapel Choir singing in honor of his street as he was fond of taking the choir with him when he led the Papal army to battle. We can only conclude that he was a music lover!).

Throughout 2008, guided tours of the street will be held on the second and fourth Saturday of each month. The first one, Discovering Via Giulia, will be on 15 March at 10.30, meeting in Piazza dell’Oro. The tours cost €5 and must be booked in advance on tel. 066868260 or by emailing prenotazioni@viagiulia500.net.

Other events lined up include an exhibition on The Art of the Easter Egg by Sergio Valentini in the Museum of Sacred Art at S. Giovanni de’ Fiorentini at 19.00 as well as talks on the urban planning of Pope Julius (26 March) and on the area as it was in imperial Rome (10 & 29 April).

10
Mar

Coffee Bites!

Ad for Stella Coffee Pot

With coffee being the national Italian drink, it’s hard to ignore these ads for the Stella espresso pot. The copy reads “The Bite of Coffee,” and though we love a coffee that goes right for the nose and the mouth, we’re not sure we want it to be quite as aggressive as these ads suggest it might be.

Advertising Agency: Lorenzo Marini & Associati, Milan, Italy
Creative Director: Lorenzo Marini
Art Director: Paolo Bianchini
Copywriter: Elisa Maino
Photographer: LSD
Published: December 2007

Ad for Stella Coffee Pot

09
Mar

Changes at the Forum & the Palatine

The Roman Forum

As of tomorrow, Monday 10 March, changes are afoot at the Forum Romanum and the Palatine Hill. Entrance to the Forum - Rome’s most important archaeological site which for more than a decade has open to the public free of charge - will require the purchase of an 11 euro ticket that is good for two days and also provides admittance to the Colosseum and the Palatine Hill.

Though shelling out 11 euro for a visit to the Forum may be a bit hard on the pocketbook (especially if yours happens to be filled with American dollars), there’s good news to report as well. Tomorrow also marks the reopening of Augustus’s house on the Palatine Hill after years of restoration. No special reservation will be required to see the wonderful first-century paintings in the emperor’s abode, but there will be careful crowd control: only 5 people will be allowed to admire the artwork at a time. For more on the House of Augustus, click here.

The House of Augustus on Rome's Palatine Hill

08
Mar

Photo Saturday: Motorino Meltdown

Melted Motorino in Rome

This weekend we get a glimpse at a type of vandalism that seems to be on the rise here in Rome - the motorino meltdown. The technique (though we’ve not undertaken it ourselves) seems to be that of lighting a row of parked motorinos on fire. It’s a decidedly un-eCool thing to do and we certainly don’t condone the act, but the results can be visually interesting - as in the collapsed melted windshield and warped wrinkled plastic seen above.

Photos by Susan Sanders are featured on this website every week. To see more of her photos, click on the Photo Friday category to the right or visit her photo blog: Rome With A View.

08
Mar

Festa della Donna

Mimosa for Festa della Donna

Today, 8 March, is International Women’s Day - a holiday celebrated in Italy as Festa della Donna. It’s a holiday celebrated in various countries, but one that gets a particularly bright form of expression here in Italy.

The history of the holiday - as we understand it - goes something like this (we’re indebted to this website for information):

Before the Second Word War, Women’s Day had been celebrated on different days in early March in several Italian cities. In 1945, the Union of Italian Women decided to hold all celebrations and commemorations on March 8, a day symbolic in the history of women’s rights for two reasons: (1) it was the day in which women garment workers in New York went on strike in 1857, an act which led to the formation of the first women’s union in the United States, and (2) a strike by Russian women calling for “bread and peace” on March 8, 1917 (February 23 on the old Russian Calendar but March 8 in the rest of the world.)

Our source further informs us of the process by which the giving of yellow mimosa flowers came to the standard way of celebrating the day:

Authorities don’t agree how or why, but the custom started in Italy - some sources say in Rome in 1946 - of men giving their wives, mothers, daughters, and other women friends sprigs of bright yellow mimosa flowers on March 8. Women have since also started to give mimosa to each other. The flowers are intended as a sign of respect for the women and also an expression of solidarity with oppressed women worldwide.

So what to expect in Rome if you’re out and about today? Flower markets filled with brilliant yellow mimosa blooms, information booths set up in piazzas as well as a variety of manifestazioni about issues pertaining to women’s rights worldwide. Italy’s three largest trade unions - Cgil, Cisl and Uil - have organized a national march in Rome in support of women’s rights in the workplace and the effort will be joined by Italian trade union leaders and Equal Opportunities Minister (love that title!) Barbara Pollastrini. Commenting on the march, Pollastrini said.

We must be there in the squares, cities and institutions to hammer home our independence.

We ask for more jobs for women, especially in the south.

Italy remains second to bottom of all European Union countries for the percentage of women in employment, with 46.9 percent compared to the European average of 58.8 percent, according to a report issued by EU statistics bureau Eurostat this week.

Among other national initiatives on Saturday, Italian President Giorgio Napolitano will oversee a special ceremony at the Quirinal Palace in Rome where women who have distinguished themselves in a variety of fields will be honored.

Finally, be aware that restaurants filled with celebratory crowds this evening, thus if you’re planning to go out, be sure to make a reservation as it’s a day on which those mammas that still cook dinner every night are released from kitchen duty.

07
Mar

The Obelisk of Axum

View of Piazza del Popolo

Visitors to Rome soon become fascinated with the 13 ancient obelisks (8 Egyptian and 5 made by the Romans in imitation of the Egyptian - additionally there are 5 modern obelisks) that mark such majestic urban spaces as Piazza del Popolo (see image above), Piazza San Pietro, Piazza Montecitorio, and Piazza del Quirinale. The eight Egyptian obelisks were brought to Rome after 31 BC, when the Roman troops led by the Emperor-to-be Augustus decidedly routed those of Marc Antony and Cleopatra at the Battle of Actium. Besides putting the cinematic lovers out of business, the Battle of Actium marked the accession of Egypt into the Roman Empire. Elated about bringing such an old and wealthy Mediterranean civilization under their reign, the Romans celebrated by loading obelisks on boats, transporting them across the Mediterranean, erecting them in ancient Rome, and then eventually crafting their own look-alike monuments. Any resident or visitor to the city would have understood such obelisks to be trophies indicating Roman dominance over Egypt and North Africa.

Fast forward several millenia to the year 1937 when the Fascist dictator of Italy, Benito Mussolini, annexed Ethiopia in an effort to build a modern Roman Empire. Again following the model of ancient Emperors, Mussolini seized an 24-meter-tall obelisk dating to the third century BC from the holy city of Axum and had it transported to Rome (see image below) where it was erected next near the Circus Maximus, aside his “Ministry for Italian Africa” (now the headquarters of the United Nations’ Food & Agriculture Organization).

In 1947, after World War II, Italy signed a peace treaty with Ethiopia in which it agreed to return the obelisk, but it took a further half a century for that to happen with the obelisk becoming a source of contention between the two countries. That Italy ignored this obligation for so long outraged Ethiopians, who hold the city of Axum (now a UNESCO World Heritage Site) to be a place of special historic and religious importance. It was the seat of the powerful pre-Christian Axumite Empire, which thrived during the first millennium A.D., and also remains the holiest of cities for Ethiopian Orthodox Christians, who believe that the Ark of the Covenant resides in a church there.

The Obelisk of Axum in Rome

In 1997, under pressure from Italian, Ethiopian, and British intellectuals, a treaty was signed in which Italy agreed once again to return the obelisk - but again they did nothing to further the process, citing the border war between Ethiopia and Eretria as the cause for non-conformance. Then, in a dramatic nighttime thunderstorm in 2002, lightning struck the obelisk and sent pieces of it crashing to the ground - it was then that efforts to return the now-damaged antiquity got serious.

Finally, in 2005, the obelisk was dismantled and returned to Ethiopia. The process was an onerous one, best described by Ian Limbach in Archaeology Magazine:

When the Fascists removed the monument in the 1930s, they relied on newly built roads and bridges leading to the seaport at Massaua. Seventy years later, the infrastructure is decrepit and the port belongs to Eritrea. Relations between it and Ethiopia are virtually nonexistent.

The sole option was to fly the stele back in three 60-ton pieces on a Russian-built Antonov 124, the only plane capable of transporting such a load. Because Axum lies nearly 7,000 feet above sea level, the thin air meant that the gargantuan plane could only land when the temperature was below 60 degrees Fahrenheit. But since the airstrip lacks navigational aids, a night landing was ruled out. The only option was to land exactly at dawn. “Did we have doubts it could be done? Oh, yeah, right up to the end!” says Paul Furlonger, commercial vice president at Antonov Airlines.

Yesterday, the Italian ambassador to the East African country announced that Ethiopia is at last ready to re-erect the obelisk in Axum and will commence the project later this year after the final technical wrinkles are ironed out. Ambassador Raffaele de Lutio said that a concrete slipway leading up to the obelisk’s site had been completed and that the base itself has been reinforced to prevent the monument causing damage to a recently discovered necropolis. He voiced the hope that the official ceremony will take place ”within the first week of September, just before the Ethiopian New Year which falls on September 11”.

Transport of the Obelisk back to Axum

For more on the obelisks of Rome, read our story about the erection of the Vatican obelisk.

06
Mar

The Halo Effect

LILA Aids Awareness Ad

LILA is the acronym for an AIDS awareness organization founded in Italy some twenty years ago - Lega Italiana per la Lotta Contro L’Aids. Among their multifarious missions is that of encouraging the use of condoms. To that end, they’ve come up with some visual reminders so clever as to even make us happy to see those nauseatingly sweet Raphael angels appear on our screens. Download the wallpaper here.

04
Mar

History in Legos

Lego Celebrities: Leonardo & Michelangelo

Legos are not really our thing here at the eCool Compound, but we’re completely charmed by these Lego celebrities. From Leonardo to Michelangelo and the David, from King Midas to Hercules, and from Caravaggio to Alexander the Great, these clever creations are enough to send us running for that box of legos packed away long ago.

Lego Celebrities: King Midas & Hercules

We don’t know who made these little figures, but we showcase here those historical and mythical figures whose lives and achievements figure into the history of Rome. For a whole range of more modern Lego celebs, take yourself to the Marco Folio blog.

Lego celebrities: Caravaggio & Alexander the Great

01
Mar

Choco-Colosseo

Chocolate Coloseeum by La Perla

At a chocolate company called La Perla, located near the city of Rieti to the east of Rome, employees spend their time crafting wonderful chocolate objects out of the highest quality ingredients. Here at the eCool Compound, we were recently the recipients of a chocolate Colosseum like the one seen above and we could hardly bring ourselves to eat it so taken were we with the chocolate monument. We’re also fond of the chocolate Saint Peter’s that we’ve seen around town in recent months, as well as La Perla’s chocolate tools and chocolate keys. (see photos below). They can be found in various stores around Rome or you can contact the chocolate factory for custom orders and special deliveries.

Chocolate Tools and Keys by La Perla

La Perla, Via Farense 35 02030 – Casali di Poggio Nativo (Ri), Telephone 0765 841333, Fax 0765 841 333, info@cioccolateria-laperla

Chocolate St Peter's by La Perla




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