Archive for April, 2008



03
Apr

Say Cheese, Please!

Cheese-eating centurion at Rome's Colosseum

Over the course of the past few weeks, the world press has spent a great deal of time and energy debating the safety of one of Italy’s greatest natural resources - the seemingly inexhaustible supply of buffalo mozzarella. The garbage strike in Naples - and other unseemly factors - have led many to believe that mozzarella from the Campania region around Naples may be contaminated with dioxin and other toxins.

In reaction to such fears, the region of Lazio (north of Campania, where Rome is located) staged a public event yesterday. Regional administrators and some 38 mayors heralding from southern Lazio - an area producing a great deal of mozzarella - gathered at the Colosseum to distribute cheese and to assure the public that food products from this region are fresh, safe, and delicious.

A Roman centurion snacking on a mozzarella ball in Rome, Italy

02
Apr

Neapolitan Street Scenes

Egg Vendor in Naples, Italy

Yep, folks. We’ve been spending a bit of time outside the Eternal City and we’ve been snapping photos as we walk the streets of such European metropolises as Paris and Naples. Knowing that our audience appreciates all things Italian, today we bring you some Neapolitan street scenes - all shot while roaming Via dei Tribunali in search of una vera pizza.

In comparison with Rome, Naples is another planet. In many ways, it is a city with two personalities - one mired in despair and disrepair (see the egg vendor above) and the other consumed with the exuberant celebration of life’s simple pleasures.

Street Scene in Naples, Italy

What produced this bipolar approach to life? Throughout the past 2500 years, Naples has been a trophy passed from one invading culture to another - first from the Greeks to the Romans, then from the Byzantines to the Normans, and then from the Angovins to the Bourbons, before finally becoming part of the newly formed country of Italy in the mid-19th century.

Such hot-potato handling of the city has made the population inventive above all - a trait clearly displayed when a white car pimped out with a loudspeaker and boxes of battery-operated toys blared its way up Via dei Tribunali announcing, “Toys for sale! Only two euro! Dolls! Cars! Batteries included.” (see below)

Moving Market in Naples, Italy

And then there’s the craziness of Naples. People, cars, and motorini swirl at rapid pace and in traffic patterns unseen elsewhere on the Italian peninsula. “See Naples and Die,” they said during the city’s Golden Age during Bourbon occupation, making reference to the drop-dead beauty of this city’s architecture and its geographical location. Today the words mean something else entirely. One dares not traverse a Neapolitan street in a distracted state of mind, as pickpockets, scooters, and cars all threaten your well-being.

Yet, amidst the chaos, there’s also a stillness to Naples. Time stops here - or at least it proceeds according to its own schedule. Swarming streets aside, one is led to believe that nothing has changed for centuries and that nothing will ever change, for the weight of history hangs heavy here, affecting everyone and everything.

Rosticceria in Naples, Italy

01
Apr

Collect Them All! Candidates in the Creche

Figurines of Barak Obama, Hillary Clinton and John McCain from Naples

In Naples, the making of figurines for creche scenes is centuries-old local craft.  Twelve months a year,  both sides of Via di San Gregorio Armeno in Naples are crowded with workshops displaying newborn Baby Jesuses, prayerful Virgin Marys, swooping cherubs, gift-bearing kings, and humble shepherds.  But that’s not all.  Because Italians like to include slices of daily life in their presepi or nativity scenes, there’s also a charming assortment of butchers, bakers, and pizza makers available to liven up your stable when there’s just no room in the inn.

Not surprisingly, each year some of these creche-crafters bow to temptation and spend their time making figurines of contemporary notables.  Giuseppe Ferigno created a 40 centimeter figure of Luciano Pavarotti after his death last fall, while figurines of other superstars like soccer great Francesco Totti can be found up and down the street.

Now, however, for the first time since the Bill Clinton-Monica Lewinsky scandal, American politics are getting serious play in the world of Neapolitan creche figures.  We’re happy to report that on a recent trip to Naples we found that figurines of Barak Obama, John McCain, and Hillary Clinton are  available to populate your manger scene (see above).

So, go ahead.  You’re just sitting around waiting for the Pennsylvania primary, right?  Jump a train or plane to Napoli and score a few of these fabulous figurines.  You’ll be glad you did when Christmas rolls around - they’ll look great next to the wise men!

01
Apr

Creative Cuisine

Ads for La Carbonara in Rome, Italy

We haven’t eaten there, but we’re digging the creative advertising campaigns for La Carbonara at Via Panisperna 214. We’re especially taken with the artichoke serpent above. Anyone been there? Do let us know how it is.

Ad for La Carbonara in Rome, Italy




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