Archive for June, 2008

29
Jun

Street Cred for Holy Rollers

Vatican Hoodie by Upper Playground

There’s a skateboard shop on Rome’s Viale Trastevere that has a certain kind of street chic that we don’t see much in this hood. Always fans of that street smart look (even if we don’t sport it ourselves), we wander by now and then just to see what’s new and cool.

A few months ago, certain members of the eCool team thought they’d skated right into heaven when they spied the “Mugshot” Hoodie by Upper Playground in the shop window. (You’ll have to click above to see it. Try as we might, we couldn’t come up with a reason to eCool it. They just didn’t include enough Italian crooks in the mix–not that there’s a shortage, especially in Parliament, as Beppe Grillo has let us know.)

But this weekend, a new level of bliss was provoked when the skaties showcased another Upper Playground Hoodie in their window, this one called “Vatican.” You won’t have to study the photos above long to see why we’re in seventh heaven. The print is a fabulous jumble of famous paintings! It’s Renaissance art remixed: works by Giotto, Botticelli, and Raphael and many more in the ultimate altered-piece! Madonna!

28
Jun

Street Poetry

Graffiti on the Ponte Principe Amedeo

A sweet sentiment has appeared on Ponte Principe Amedeo, the bridge leading from the Trastevere/Vatican area to the historic center in the area of San Giovanni dei Fiorentini. It reads:

Chi getta semi al vento fara fiorire il cielo…

or

Whoever throws seeds in the wind will make flowers in the sky…

A bit of googling suggests that the author may be one Ivan, a self-appointed street poet who has painted the same lines in other cities and who, since 2003, has been staging poetic assaults in Italy’s cities.

21
Jun

Photo Saturday: Summer Solstice at the Pantheon II

Boys in the Sun at Rome's Pantheon

Yesterday was the summer solstice and in honor of the very longest day of the year, photographer Susan Sanders brought us images of the Pantheon’s dome and oculus. Click here to see them.

But that’s not all she accomplished yesterday! She took herself to the Pantheon and spent some time studying the spectacular disk of light that’s thrown on the temple’s marble floor during summer’s longest days.

Child's Pose in Rome's Pantheon

Streaming through the oculus in the dome, the sun creates an intensely focused beam of light that casts a perfect circle on the colored marble pavement.

Visitors find the awe-inspiring effect to be intensely provocative. They venture in and out of the disk of light–they’re not really comfortable standing in it, but they’re compelled to interact with it.

Enjoy the photos. And admire more of Rome by making a trip over to Susan’s photo blog: Rome With A View.

Woman with a Hat in Rome's Pantheon

20
Jun

Photo Friday: Summer Solstice at the Pantheon

Summer Solstice at the Pantheon

Today, 20 June, is the summer solstice, the day on which the sun reaches its highest point in the sky. And, there’s no better day to visit the Pantheon–especially if you can manage to get there between 12pm and 1pm, when the sun’s position peaks.

Between 12pm and 1pm, the disk of sun thrown by the oculus in the Pantheon’s dome lands flat on the building’s marble pavement, creating a brilliant circle of light on the floor in front of the door. It’s an effect one sees in only in the summer–for most of the year, the disk of light never hits the ground at all.

Our trusty photographer, Susan Sanders, has a bit of an obsession with the Pantheon. We might even go so far as to say that she lives for the summer solstice and the moment when that gorgeous circle of light makes its way onto the building’s pavement. And so, this weekend, we bring you a two-part photo celebration of the Pantheon.

We begin today with view upward–we’re showcasing Susan’s photos of the building’s beautiful (and newly cleaned) concrete dome and the brilliantly lit oculus. Tomorrow we’ll move on to the floor itself with photos of the ever moving disk of light that so enlivens this ancient temple. So, enjoy today’s photos. Check in tomorrow for more. And in the meantime, take a spin through Susan’s other fabulous photos of Rome at her photo blog: Rome With A View.

Look Up in Rome's Pantheon

20
Jun

Human Rights at the Colosseum

Human Rights at the Colosseum

For the next three nights, the Colosseum will be a glowing billboard for the cause of human rights.

The UN has marked today, the 20th of June, as World Refugee Day, saying:

The refugee challenge in the 21st century is changing rapidly. People are forced to flee their homes for increasingly complicated and interlinked reasons. Some 40 million people worldwide are already uprooted by violence and persecution, and it is likely that the future will see more people on the run as a growing number of push factors compound one another to create conditions for further forced displacement.

Today people do not just flee persecution and war but also injustice, exclusion, environmental pressures, competition for scarce resources and all the miserable human consequences of dysfunctional states.

The task facing the international community in this new environment is to find ways to unlock the potential of refugees who have so much to offer if they are given the opportunity to regain control over their lives.

Rome is participating by projecting the symbol of the UN’s Refugee Agency, along with its slogan, “Proteggere i rifugiati è un dovere. Essere protetti è un diritto” or “Protecting refugees is a must. To be protected is a right.”

Human Rights at the Colosseum

19
Jun

Myth Remastered: Cupid & Psyche in the Love Shack

The Villa Farnesina in Roem

Today we bring you another installment in our Myths Remastered series. We began the series several weeks ago with a retelling of the story of Apollo and Daphne. Today we take on Cupid and Psyche, the famous lovers featured in a loggia designed by Raphael in the Villa Farnesina.

Cupid, god of love, was an arrow-toting teenage divinity, but he was not immune to the powers of the heart. His first and only love was a mortal woman named Psyche, whose beauty and charm the young Cupid found irresistible. The true but tumultuous love story of Cupid and Psyche is immortalized on the walls and ceiling of Rome’s Villa Farnesina (see above), a Renaissance pleasure palace built by Agostino Chigi.

Chigi, a banker and power broker, was celebrated as the richest man in Rome for some twenty years in the early 1500s. Already in possession of a proper palazzo in the center of the city, he wanted (and no doubt needed) a suburban villa—a place where he could get away from the constant pressures induced by the task of keeping track of Papal bank accounts. Thus, Chigi built himself a luxurious weekend getaway in a Roman subdivision being developed by his client and friend, Pope Julius II. While Chigi might have claimed that his villa was a place for deep thoughts and business deals (thereby making it a Renaissance tax write-off), everyone in town called his suburban villa the “love shack,” for like all Renaissance moguls, Agostino made a practice of engaging the most elegant and expensive courtesans, and his Villa provided precisely the venue in which he could partake of that leisurely pastime.

When he broke ground for his villa in 1508, Agostino intended to inhabit it alongside his mistress, a very famous Renaissance courtesan named Imperia. Mocking the relationship, a contemporary poet penned a droll verse about Agostino (here likened to Rome’s first emperor, Augustus) and his lover

Your Imperia, Augustus
She is no empire,
But she with her name changed is called Emporium.

Unfortunately, Chigi and Imperia parted ways before the Villa was complete. However, not one to remain single for long, Agostino made a trip to Venice where a beautiful young girl named Francesca captured his heart. She moved into the “love shack” in 1511 and over the course of the next years, she and Agostino had four children together before finally taking vows at the insistence of Pope Leo X in 1519.

The Loggia of Cupid & Psyche in Rome's Villa Farnesina

Agostino and Francesca’s new home must have been featured on the cover of every sixteenth-century interior design magazine, for its décor provided a dazzling display of all the best that money could buy. Baldessare Peruzzi, an architect from Chigi’s hometown, Siena, was chosen to design the villa, and he employed a classical style meant to honor and to evoke the glory of ancient Rome. Inside the villa, Raphael, Sodoma, Peruzzi, and Sebastiano del Piombo were commissioned to fresco the walls and ceilings with the love affairs of the ancient Roman gods and goddesses. Certainly Agostino meant for these love stories to inspire the passions of his mistress and to titillate his constant stream of guests – many of them high-ranking church officials.

Chigi asked Raphael to decorate the vaulted ceiling and the walls of his entry loggia with a cycle of frescoes. Overcommitted in both his work and his personal life, Raphael didn’t have time to do much of the painting, but he did manage to produce sketches that were used by his apprentices to decorate the impressive entryway. The result is a glorious cycle of frescoes that depict the romance of Cupid and Psyche – an ancient love story made popular by Renaissance humanists and one meant to assure us that true love will triumph over any adversity.

Psyche was a mortal girl - the youngest daughter of a king and queen. She was so beautiful that the citizens of her town came to believe that she was Venus reborn and therefore offered her the same kinds of adulation that they generally reserved for the Goddess of Love. High and mighty Venus – always jealous when the spotlight shone on another pretty girl – was vexed when her devoted worshipers focused their attention elsewhere and so she sent her son Cupid to punish Psyche in the worst of all possible ways.

Cupid’s assignment was to make the mortal girl fall in love with someone just her opposite - a base and ugly man who would make her life miserable. But, in sending Cupid to do her dirty work, Venus did not take into account the effect that Psyche’s beauty might have on her teenage love child, and when Cupid laid eyes on Psyche, he was so overcome with passion that he forgot his mission. In the utmost of secrecy, he whisked the girl off to his palace in the sky, Once in Cupid’s abode, Psyche was waited on hand and foot by the gentle breezes, and each night Cupid visited her, though he kept his identity concealed. The god promised to be faithful to the smitten Psyche forever if she did not try to find out his identity. Trust was paramount to the maintenance of this relationship.

The Loggia of Cupid & Psyche in Rome's Villa Farnesina

Psyche agreed to Cupid’s condition of anonymity, but the promise she made to him was hard to keep, and its difficulty only increased when Psyche’s sisters came to visit her in Cupid’s palace. Always jealous of her beauty, the two sisters now became resentful of Psyche’s heavenly home. “Who is he?” they asked. “What does he look like?” Psyche had no answers. Each time the sisters visited, they became increasingly envious. On their third visit, Psyche had some exciting news. “I’m going to have a baby,” she told them joyfully. But the happy moment was ruined when the sisters began to press Psyche even further about the identity of her lover. They suggested to her that he might be a terrible monster that would devour her when the baby was born. Terrified, Psyche agreed that it would be wise to discover his identity, and with her sisters she concocted a plan.

For the trusting Cupid, that fateful night was just like any other. After a long day of shooting love’s arrows, the young god headed home, anticipating a cozy evening with his beloved. Following a candlelit dinner served by the winds themselves, Cupid and Psyche fell into bed and made love. Then, as usual, Cupid drifted off to sleep. Psyche, on the other hand, stayed alert, and when Cupid was lightly snoring she quietly lit an oil lamp and held it above him. What she saw was not at all what her sisters had suggested. Her lover was no monster! He was so radiant and godlike in his beauty that Psyche was overcome by his immortal splendor. Her hand began to tremble and a drop of hot oil spilled out of the lamp and onto Cupid’s shoulder.

Rudely awakened, Cupid sprang from bed, enraged that Psyche had broken her vow. He banished his lover from the castle and fled to his mother’s side in search of comfort. Outraged to hear of her son’s secret relationship, Venus went in pursuit of Psyche, thrilled to have a legitimate reason to squelch her archrival. However, unable to capture the merely mortal girl, Venus implored Jupiter to send out a search party, and when Psyche was finally found, she was brought to stand in judgment before the Goddess of Love, who sought her revenge by sentencing the girl to a series of impossible tasks.

First, Venus made Psyche sort an enormous pyramid of mixed grains. The task looked hopeless, but an industrious team of ants came to her aid. Next she sent the girl to gather golden wool from a dangerous flock of man-eating sheep. Against all odds, the girl succeeded in this task as well. Then Venus commanded Psyche to fill a vessel at a stream protected by a dragon. At just the right moment, Jupiter’s eagle dropped from the sky and swiftly filled the container for her.

The Loggia of Cupid & Psyche in Rome's Villa Farnesina

Bemused at Psyche’s successful completion of these tasks (and even angrier than before), Venus assigned Psyche a chore that she knew would destroy her. The girl was commissioned to go to the Underworld where she was to fill a vessel with Queen Persephone’s beauty and bring it back to Venus. Knowing the impossibility of this task – no one was able to return to the living once they entered the Underworld - Psyche threw herself from a tower in despair. But, as she fell, the tower spoke, giving her instructions as to how the task might be completed, and the winds came to her rescue and safely guided her to the ground.

Cupid, in the meantime, was recovering from his burn. When he became aware of the torture his mother was inflicting on Psyche, the boy-god intervened by going directly to Venus’s superior. He asked Jupiter, the King of the Gods, for permission to marry Psyche (even though doing so was risky business as he had repeatedly wounded Jupiter with lust-inducing arrows that sent the King of the Gods careening from one ignoble dignified romantic encounter to another). At an assembly of the gods, the arrow-toting boy-god’s request was granted. A splendid wedding feast appeared in the heavens and all the gods came to celebrate the union of Cupid (Erotic Love) with Psyche (the Mind). Shortly thereafter, their child, Voluptas (Pleasure), was born.

Such is the story portrayed in Agostino Chigi’s Loggia of Cupid and Psyche. And though Raphael complied with the wishes of Agostino Chigi in that he designed the Cupid and Psyche paintings in the loggia, he was just too busy to do much of the actual painting. The only figure that can definitively be said to be by Raphael is one of the Three Graces, who sits delicately on a cloud, her bare back and bottom facing the viewer, as she twists to look over her shoulder (see the second photo in this entry). The rest of the scenes on the walls and the ceiling – including the faux tapestries that billow below a blue sky and appear to be woven with images of Cupid asking Jupiter for the hand of Psyche as well as the wedding of the lovers – were almost certainly painted by Raphael’s apprentices.

The Loggia of Cupid & Psyche in Rome's Villa Farnesina

Click here to read our interview with best-selling author Dave King, whose new novel, a work-in-progress, is inspired (in part) by the Villa Farnesina and by Cupid and Psyche.

18
Jun

Dante Hits the Streets

Sten, Lex, & Lucamaleonte do Dante

Tourists and Romans alike often complain about the amount of graffiti on the city’s walls and they’re right to be outraged by the innumerable and artless tags that mar most buildings in the Eterna.

But Rome’s street art scene is much more than a bunch of high school kids with markers. There are some fine artists out there whose work grapples with current issues as well as with the city’s majestic (but weighty) past.

Here at the eCool Compound, we pay special attention to any street art that strives to re-present history and culture and faithful readers will recall the many posts we’ve dedicated to art works with mythological and historical subjects, from the She-Wolf to the 7 Kings and from Bernini’s Blessed Ludovica Albertoni to the Colosseum.

Sten, Lex, & Lucamaleonte do Dante

Thus, we were quite dismayed when we recently realized that we’d missed a stellar exhibit at the Dorothy Circus Gallery in which street stars Sten, Lex, and Lucamaleonte took on Dante.

From the stenciled cutout of Virgil and Dante on the outside of the building (see top photo) to the artful images sprayed on the gallery walls (see above and below) we’re totally taken.

The exhibit, City Slang – The Street Comes to the Gallery By DCG and Micol Di Veroli was on display from January 22th - February 22th, 2008 and featured works by Sten, Lex, Lucamaleonte, TV Boy, Koralie, SuperKitch, and GarCrew. You can see representative works by clicking here.

Sten, Lex & Lucamaleone do Dante

Interested in Dante? Then you’ll be happy to know that the city of Florence has just issued a pardon to Dante, forgiving him for political crimes committed 700 years ago. They’ve also awarded him the city’s highest honor, the Fiorino d’Oro or the Golden Florin. For the whole story, we recommend Peter Popham’s article in The Independent.

13
Jun

Photo Friday: Something Old, Something New

Bride at the Fountain.  A Photo of Rome by Susan Sanders.

It’s June and brides are everywhere in the city of Eternal Love!

In fact, in recent days, the international press has been exclaiming over photos of Tom Hanks helping a bride get to her wedding. It seems that her path was blocked by the crew filming Angels & Demons here in Rome, so Tom stepped in to escort the bride through the mayhem. Click here if you must. We can’t be bothered.

We’re more interested in those Roman brides who have already made it to the church on time and are now on to bigger and better things—namely the taking of wedding photographs. On a warm summer day in the Eterna, it’s common to see wedding parties posing in front of ancient monuments, a ritual suggesting that the “for better or worse” deal isn’t valid unless Roma herself is a witness.

Last week, Susan Sanders caught just such a wedding party taking a break on the slopes of the Capitoline. The bride bends to sip from a fountain spouting water brought to Rome by the ancient Aqua Marcia, while her eternal love chivalrously holds her bouquet.

For more photos of Rome by Susan, visit her photo blog: Rome With A View.

12
Jun

U.S. Citizens for Peace & Justice

War Criminals in Rome

Yesterday, U.S. President George W. Bush arrived in Rome for a three-day stay. The security and complications surrounding his visit will effectively shut down parts of the Eterna and will leave Romans sitting in huge traffic jams or trekking long distances through the city on foot.

As demonstrated by the photo above, the President’s arrival was greeted with the usual good will and fanfare. U.S. Citizens for Peace & Justice, an organization with a noble mission, joined with Italian activists and international friends, to denounce the countless crimes of the Bush regime, from the destruction of the countries of Iraq and Afghanistan, to torture and illegal detention, to intelligence fixing and threats of attacks against Iran.

They made a symbolic citizen’s arrest of Bush, Cheney and Rice (see above), leading them from Piazza della Repubblica to Piazza Barberini in chains.

Visit the U.S. Citizens for Peace and Justice website to find out more about the organization or to join its efforts.

10
Jun

do-it-yourself Football Fans

DIY Football Fans by Samsung

If you’re reading this blog, there’s a good chance you’re supporting Italy in the Euro 2008 football championships–despite their brutal defeat by the Dutch last night. Maybe you’ve even dashed off to your local Standa to acquire Azzuri t-shirts and a variety of red, white, and green wigs (they come in both the curly- and straight-haired models).

Despite such full-blown enthusiasm, you may be finding that it’s just not as fun cheering for the Italians from your living room. You may be missing the experience of sitting jam-packed without thousands of other rabid football fans in the stadium at the Foro Italico. We certainly are!

If that’s the case, you’ll want to get busy creating Samsung’s DIY Office Toy Supporters. Download their four enthusiastic football fans, cut them out, and assemble them, and you’ll have a crowd of your own! Rino, Lillo, Igor, and Lina are currently on offer, but there’s more to come!

DIY Footbal Fans by Samsun




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