Archive for August, 2008

29
Aug

Postage Due

italian Postage Stamps

A special postage stamp dedicated to the annual “spaghetti all’amatriciana” festival in the town of Amatrice, northeast of Rome, was released today!  We’re running to the post office to get some — hope they come in a scratch-and-sniff edition as there’s nothing lovelier than the scent of a nice pasta all’amatricana wafting through the air.

The amatriciana stamp will be part of a “Made in Italy” series of stamps issued by the Italian postal service and follows on the heels of the stamp dedicated to “Zafferano dell’Aquila” (saffron from L’Aquila), which was released on 26 July.

The 60-cent stamp shows the town of Amatrice’s main thoroughfare, Corso Umberto I, along with images of the ingredients needed to create the well-loved pasta dish which is said to originate in the town: spaghetti, guanciale (pork jowl), olive oil, white wine, tomatoes, chili peppers and pecorino cheese.

This year the amatriciana festival, called the Sagra di Amatriciana and now in its 42nd edition, will take place on 30-31 August. Spaghetti all’amatriciana will be served on both evenings from 17.30 until 21.00 and for the third consecutive year there will also be a gluten-free version of the dish.

Dying to make your own amatriciana?  We’d go for this recipe from the New York Times.

29
Aug

Photo Friday: the Nostoi Exhibit

Photo of the Nostoi Exhibit in Rome by Susan Sanders

Photo Friday!  This week Susan Sanders brings us images of an extraordinary exhibit called Nostoi that’s being held at the Palazzo Poli, near the Trevi Fountain.  The exhibit showcases archaeological artifacts returned (or recovered by Carabinieri) to Italy from museums in the United States and elsewhere after being illegally excavated, exported, and sold.  (The exhibit was formerly hosted in the Palazzo Quirinale - it’s now moved.)

Among the artifacts on exhibit (and shown here in Susan’s photos) is the stunning Euphronius krater, a 2500 year old Greek red-figure vessel, which Italy regained after signing a deal with the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York.

The Euphronius krater — a large vase painted with scenes related to Homer’s epic poems “The Iliad” and “The Odyssey” — is regarded as one of the finest examples of its kind, a fact that was immediately recognized by the (then) director of the Met, Thomas Hoving, when he fell in love with the calyx krater at first sight in 1972.  He effused about the vase in his 1993 book, Making the Mummies Dance:

The Euphronios krate is everything I revere in a work of art.  It is flawless in technique, is a grand work of architecture, has several levels of heroic subject matter, and keeps on revealing something new at every glance.  To love it, you only have to look once.  To adore it, you  must read Homer and know that the drawing is perhaps the summit of fine art.  Truly, the calyx krater is one of those rare pieces that is legitimately the perfect object of adoration for botht he neophyte and the art snob.

What was not so legitimate about the vase was the way in which it was excavated and the way in which Thomas Hoving went about purchasing it in the early 1970s.  The vase was probably looted from an Etruscan tomb in Cerveteri, an archaeological site just to the north of Rome.  It seems then to have been smuggled out of Italy before Hoving agreed to pay a million dollars for the antiquity, bending and break rules and laws in the process.

After years of negotiation with the Met, the museum agreed to return the vase to Italy.  The deal that was eventually sealed with the New York museum in February 2006 called for the return of the vase by mid-January 2008. The museum also agreed to return 20 other antiquities.

In the meantime, American art dealer Robert Hecht — who sold the vase to Hoving in 1972 — has been put on trial in Rome, charged with knowingly acquiring allegedly looted ancient artifacts. He denies wrongdoing.

The vase and other returned antiquities are on show in the Palazzo Poli, at Via Poli 54, until 7 September, after which the exhibit will move to Athens, Greece.

For more photographs by Susan Sanders, visit her photo blog: Rome With A View.

The Euphronius Krater in the Nostoi Exhibit in Rome.  Photo by Susan Sanders

25
Aug

Hot Off the Press

Statue of Giordano Bruno in Campo dei Fiori

Here at the eCool compound, we’ve elevated the status of Ingrid Rowland to a level that’s near divine. This may be a heretical move on our part, but, she’s the sun around which our earth spins. Thus, today, we’re groovin’ on the fabulously entertaining and enlightening review given to her new book about Giordano Bruno on Salon.com. Click on over and read all about it.

25
Aug

Nuns on the Run(Way)

Nuns in Rome by Jamie John Davies

For the past couple of days, Rome has been awash with news of a planned beauty contest for nuns.

“Miss Sister Italy,” an online beauty contest for those in the habit, is being organized by a priest, Antonio Rungi, of the southern Italian diocese of Modragone, who told the Italian newspaper, Corriere della Sera:

Nuns are above all women and beauty is a gift from God.  This contest will be a way to show there isn’t just the beauty we see on television but also a more discrete charm.

Any nun between 18 and 40 years of age who wishes  to be part of the contest should send their photographs to Father Antonio, who will publish it on his blog. Nuns can choose to wear their full habits and veils or let their hair down.

He claims that the idea for a beauty contest originated with the nuns themselves and that he expects about 1000 participants.

You really think all nuns are old, stunted and sad? This isn’t the case any more, thanks to the arrival in our country of young and vital nuns [notably from Africa and Latin America].

Fr. Antonio hopes the event will become an annual one and that next year the contest can move beyond the internet and take place in real time, preferably in conjunction with the extraordinarily popular Miss Italia contest.

Photo by Jamie John Davies.

23
Aug

Photo Saturday: Street Art in August

Photo of Rome by Susan Sanders

Photographer Susan Sanders has been out wandering the street and she tells us that there’s been an August-long explosion of graffiti and street art in the Eterna.  A lot of what she’s seeing out there are stupid scribbled tags of te type that deface practically every building in town - enough already!  But, occasionally she comes across something a bit more interesting, like this lineup of sticker art that currently enhances Piazza San Callisto in Trastevere.

For more views of Rome, visit Susan’s website, Rome with a View.

21
Aug

Rome 1960: The Olympics that Changed the World

Rome 1960 Olympics

It’s hot and steamy in Rome these days.  The weather, in combination with the fact that everything in the Eterna is closed, make it hard to motivate the staff here at the eCool compound.  Hence, the scarcity of posts.  Most days, when we saunter into the compound after a few iced coffees and a leisurely stroll through the city’s deserted streets, we find our eCool employees hunkered down in front of the television, watching the Beijing Olympics. The minute we switch off the set and demand that they start writing and photographing, the whole team heads for the glorious swimming pool that’s been put up “in the shadow of the Colosseum” on the Caelian Hill.  (If you’re sweating it out in Rome this summer and you’ve not yet been to this pool, run there!)  It’s hard to get any work done in this national holiday month!

The eCoolers did show a bit of excitement when we suggested they write about the Olympics instead of just watching them.  And so, today, we bring you news of a new book by Pulitzer Prize winner, David Maraniss, titled Rome 1960.  The Olympics that Changed the World.

1960 Olympics in Rome

Rome’s 1960 Olympics happened half a century after they were first planned.  The Eternal City was awarded the Olympics in 1908, but the eruption of the volcano Vesuvius in 1906 forced the city to decline the honor, which was passed to London.  Thus, there was much celebration when, in 1955, the International Olympic Committee selected Rome as the host for the XVII Olympiad.

Like all Olympic cities, Rome went to work when the announcement was made.  The entire city’s infrastructure, from the transportation system to the water supply, was significantly upgraded, and a number of new sporting venues were constructed.  None of the new stadiums were as interesting as the ancient settings in which some sporting events were held: the wrestling competition was held in the Basilica of Maxentius in the Roman Forum, the gymnastic events were staged at the Baths of Caracalla, and the marathon — won by the Ethiopian runner Abebe Bikila who set a new world record while racing barefoot — finished under the Arch of Constantine.

Finish Line of the Marathon in 1960 Rome Olympics

The athletic competitions at the Rome Olympics proved to be just as spellbinding.   The Soviet team, backed by generous Communist athletic subsidies, trounced the Americans by winning more medals than ever before.  Supercharged sprinter Wilma Rudolph broke racial barriers when she won the gold despite a bout with childhood polio that left her in leg braces.  America’s number one hope for a medal, sprinter Dave Sime, was recruited into an effort to convince a Soviet long jumper, Igor Ter-Ovanesyan ,to defect to the United States during the Games.  And the gold-medal-winning marathoner, Bikila, had the satisfaction of achieving athletic triumph on the streets of the very country that had annexed and ruled his own for several decades in the first half of the 20th century.

While David Maraniss’s book is about such athletic achievement, it is also about the changing world in which the 1960 Olympics were staged.   Political and social events play a central role in the story of the Rome Olympics, from the rise of Communism and the advent of the Cold War to the slow disintegration of racial barriers.  As well, Maraniss chronicles changes in the culture of athletics that still affect the sports world today.

As Maraniss himself says in an interview posted on his website, the Rome Olympics heralded the beginning of our modern world:

In so many ways, the 1960 Olympics marked a passing of one era and the birth of another. Television, money and doping were bursting onto the scene, changing everything they touched. Old-school notions of amateurism, created by and for upper-class sportsmen, were being challenged as never before. New countries were being born in Africa and Asia, blacks and women were pushing for equal rights. For better and worse, one could see the modern world as we know it today coming into view.

Wilma Rudolph in the 1960 Rome Olympics

18
Aug

Granita di Tassoni Soda e Vodka

Granita di Tassoni e Vodka

About this time of year, it gets hot in the eCool compound.  As we sweat in front of our computers, putting together the very entries that keep you apprised of all that’s hip and happening in Rome, we get pretty darn thirsty and so we’re always on the lookout for a cool and refreshing treat we can break out when happy hour comes along — something that will lower our body temperatures, and, perhaps, alter our state of being.

After trying out an entire range of icy alcoholic treats year, including a Mirto-Blueberry granita, a Campari-Grapefruit granita, and a much-celebrated Coffee Granita with Bailey’s Irish Cream, this year we’re on to something new.

We’ve always loved sipping on Italy’s iconic soda, the Tassoni Cedrata (see image below).  From it’s fabulous chartreuse hue to its delicate cedrata flavor, this carbonated beverage is the one most often found in the eCool refrigerator.  A Wikipedia entry on Tassoni tells us that the soda reached the height of its popularity in the 1970s, and that it’s famed taste is rivaled only by the popularity of its 15-second television commercial which has been running since 1986 and therefore is the second longest running publicity “spot” on Italian television.

But we’ve digressed and left you wondering how to make a granita di Tassoni and vodka, haven’t we?  Here’s the skinny:

We started by pouring four beautiful bottles of Tassoni (they’re about 8 oz each) into a bowl.  To that we added about 3/4 a cup of vodka and a squeeze of fresh lime juice.  (At this point we had to stop ourselves from drinking this delicious mixture).

We poured the liquid into a shallow dish and placed it in the freezer and then spent a pleasurable and refreshing afternoon opening the freezer to stir the mixture every half hour until the liquid froze into ice crystals.

Make it.  You’ll be happy.

Tassoni Soda

16
Aug

Beach Blanket Bongo

Oversized Bucket on the Beach at Rimini

In past days, six mega-reproductions of beach equipment have appeared on the spiaggia in Rimini.  A huge red bucket, two giant-sized lounge chairs (one with umbrella), a paddleboat fit for Neptune, and a massive kids’ float toy are attracting a great deal of attention from vacationers in the area.

Oversized beach equipment in Rimini

The objects were commissioned by the Province of Rimini from a company that specializes in stage design and will remain on display until 17 August.

Photos by Manuel Migliorini / Adriapress

Giant Float Toy on the Beach in Rimini

15
Aug

Photo Friday: Sisters of Gelato

Sisters of Gelato.  A Rome photo by Susan Sanders.

Today, Ferragosto, the 15th of August, marks the high point of the summer holiday season in Rome.   The city is deserted, for all good Romans have taken themselves to the mountains or the sea.

Those of us left here in Rome are spending an exorbitant amount of energy trying to stay cool.  Few apartments are air conditioned in the Eterna (though the number grows each year) and the black cobblestones streets have collected enough heat over the course of the summer to radiate warmth right up your legs.

Fortunately, Rome has spent centuries developing a gastronomical treat that helps to lower the body temperature and also provides a bit of nourishment on those “it’s just too hot to eat” days — that treat, of course, is gelato!

Photographer Susan Sanders caught some nuns enjoying cones near Largo Argentina recently.  Their faces alone tell the story — they’re thrilled to be indulging their ice cream habit!  For more delightful photos of Rome by Susan, visit her blog, Rome With A View.

And if you’re thinking of making some icy treats of your own (or just want to salivate over some fabulous photos of frozen delights), head on over to our friend Hande’s blog, Food Vagabond, and check out the amazing things she keeps in her freezer!

15
Aug

Rome’s Magic Kingdom

Image from Gods & Heroes: Rome Rising

Here at the eCool Compound we’re aware that not every traveler to Rome is equally enticed by the bountiful remains of antiquity strewn across the Eternal City. Looking at fallen-down temples, collapsed columns, and foundation walls can get old — we’ll be the first to admit it.

But, that doesn’t make us any more sympathetic to the city of Rome’s announcement that they’re planning an ancient Roman theme park.  Here’s what Reuters has to say:

 With the ruins of ancient Rome, the splendor of Vatican City and countless Renaissance art treasures, what does Italy’s capital lack to attract tourists?

The answer, according to the mayor’s office, is a Disneyland-style theme park.

“The model is Euro-Disney in Paris,” said Deputy Mayor Mauro Cutrufo, announcing plans to build a vast ancient Rome theme park just outside the city which he says could be up and running within three to four years.

The park would provide family-friendly attractions to show visitors what life was like in the Rome of 2,000 years ago.

“You would relive scenes from the Colosseum, from ancient Rome, gladiators or maybe Julius Caesar or other things,” a Rome city official said.

In a city that’s chock-full of amazing experiences — from walking on ancient roads to gazing at Michelangelo’s frescoes on the Sistine Ceiling — do we really need to offer visitors an fabricated alternative to seeing Rome’s amazing art and architecture? Why build a fake Colosseum in a fake ancient Rome when the real thing is there for the taking?

We’re troubled by this, as are some city officials:

The government of the Lazio region, of which Rome is the capital, is run by the centre left and they are hostile to the proposal from the city council which is in the hands of Prime Minister Silvio Berlusconi’s centre right.

“I say no to Americanization,” said Claudio Mancini, a member of the Lazio council, who hopes the project will be stopped at the planning stage.

To our eye the project seems to be nothing more than a way to remove a few more euro from the pockets of tourists. Why not invest the same money to make Rome’s already-fabulous tourist attractions a bit more enjoyable? There’s certainly no end to things that could be done to enhance visitor experience at the Forum, the Colosseum, and the myriad of museums that are jam-packed with stunning art works. Read on. And let us know what you think.




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