Author Archive for admin

02
Jul

The Galleria Sciarra Restored

Galleria Sciarra in Rome

A recent stroll through the Eterna took us to the lovely Galleria Sciarra, near the Trevi Fountain, a lovely building constructed just after the unification of Italy in the late 1880s that originally served as a shopping center.  The architecture, frescoes, and glass dome of the Galleria Sciarra have just been restored and are looking drop-dead lovely, so we thought we’d share some photos and tell you a bit about this little gem.

Galleria Sciarra in Rome

Commissioned by Prince Maffeo Sciarra, the building was designed architect Giulio De Angelis and its interior was painted by Giuseppe Cellini, who covered the walls with the Sciarra family crest, portraits of 12 “modern” women sporting fancy hairstyles and beautiful dresses who serve as personifications of female virtues, scenes from the lives of ideal women, and Latin inscriptions alluding to the virtues to which women of the era were meant to aspire.

The 12 women personifying modern virtues are shown in the uppermost figural register (see photos above and below).  They are explained by Elizabeth Jones  in an article published on WantedinRome.com:

A Latin word identifies…(desired) virtues while an attitude, a gesture, an attribute helps to characterise them. Benigna spreads her skirt generously wide; Domina, mistress of the household, points a furled fan downwards with a commanding gesture; Amabilis gracefully extends her arms in welcome; Fidelis points her left forefinger to her faithful heart, an emblematic dog at her feet; Misericors is cutting her tresses and so, in compassion, is making a sacrifice of her crowning glory; Lusta brings her hands judiciously together; Pudica looks modest and Sobria has a high-buttoned neckline; Patiens gazes down resignedly at the two naked babies sprawled on her lap; Fortis, arms akimbo, bears up valiantly; Humilis in an apron holds out her arms in submissive surrender; Prudens fortifies herself against temptation by reading a book.

Galleria Schiarra in Rome

Below the 12 ideal women, in a second register surrounding the windows, are images that following the life of an ideal woman in the late 19th century.  The cycle begins with a young woman receives the attentions of a dashing dark-haired man (said to be a portrait of Gabriele D’Annunzio), continues through her marriage, the birth of a child, her blissful motherhood, her happy domestic life which includes a wonderful dinner scene,  her fulfilling relationship with her husband, and her generosity to the poor.

On pilasters below these scenes–painted at the ground level of the Galleria–are inscriptions from Roman poets.  Again, we turn to Elizabeth Jones for insight as to their meanings:

Below these scenes are four Latin quotations. A woman…educated in the classics would have recognised them. They are from Horace and Virgil, the two best-known poets of Augustan Rome…each quotation has a specific bearing on a scene above. Beneath the lavish wedding scene we have Horace, in unusually austere, proto-Rousseau mode, praising the noble savage Scythian woman:

The generous dowry she receives from her parents is virtue: she remains true to her vows and shuns men not her husband; adultery is a foul offence, its penalty death. (Odes III. 24. 21-24)

Under the mother and baby is Virgils encouragement to the child who is to bring back the Golden Age:

Begin, little boy, to recognise your mother with a smile. (Eclogue 4. 60)

A stanza from Horace underpins the scene at the dinner table:

A man lives well on little if the family salt cellar gleams, carefully polished, on his frugal table, and if fear and sordid avarice do not disturb his easy slumbers. (Odes 2. 16. 13-16)

Virgil is invoked to comment on the almsgiving scene:

Not ignorant of suffering, I am learning to succour the wretched. (Aeneid 1. 630)

The Galleria Sciarra is between Via M. Minghetti and Piazza dellOratorio.  Stop in to see the newly restored building the next time you’re in the area.  There’s no shopping there now, but there’s evidence of some sort of commercial activity, so we’re hoping to see it returned to its former livliness in the future.

Galleria Sciarra in Rome

Photos by Susan Sanders.  See her blog Rome With a View for more images of the Eternally Beautiful city.

01
Jul

Racism is a Boomerang

Racism Poster in Rome

Though few human rights activists would consider Rome an ideal city, there are any number of organizations in the Eterna that we admire, not least for their efforts to raise awareness about the equality of all human beings irregardless of race, gender, or sexual orientation.

We’ve shown you publicity mounted by those organizations in the past, most recently the posters put up by the CGIL labor union, reminding us that Italians and foreigners share basic emotions and bodily functions, with their “same blood,” “same sweat,” “same smile,” and “same tears” campaign.

That CGIL campaign was so elegant and so emotion-stirring that when we stumbled upon the latest piece of advertising meant to remind us to treat others as we ourselves would be treated, we were a bit taken aback at its uncompromising bluntness.  That said, we like the posters that have appeared all over town thanks to ARCI, a leftist organization dedicated to social promotion.

You can see the poster above in a beautiful photo taken by the famous and fabulous Susan Sanders.   Above the figures, it says, “You call us a dirty black man and a disgusting lesbian.”  Between them, the text continues, “But are you offended if we call you a mafioso Italian?” And then further below, “Racism is a boomerang.  Sooner or later it comes back to you.”

30
Jun

Nike Goes Gladiator

Nike Gladiator Sandals

It’s an exciting day here at the Compound!  Though we love togas and clerical robes as much as the next Rome-antic, we’ve just discovered the hottest Rome-inspired fashion to wind its way through the centuries in ages!

Nike, it seems, has cleverly created a gladiator sandal that comes complete with the trademark swoosh and non-slip soles (a girl needs to be steady on her feet in the arena)!

Made exclusively for Colette in Paris, these hot items sell for about 80 euro or $110 and come in black and white.

Nike Gladiator Sandals!

If you don’t hear from us for a while, it’s because we’ve just instituted a uniform policy and are in Paris spending our hard-earned sesterces as we fit out the eCool team.

Imagine our gladiation!  We who are about to buy salute you!

Nike Gladiator Sandals!

29
Jun

La Cosa Piu Cara

La Cosa Piu Cara Graffiti

Just adding to our collection of sentimental writings on Rome’s walls.  We spotted this charmer on the same nearby school where studens are trained in the art of paper airplane making and where they also work out math problems on the walls.  It says, “…sei la cosa piu cara che ho…” or “you’re the most precious thing I have.”

28
Jun

The Temple of Romulus is Open

Temple of Romulus in the Roman Forum

A stroll through the Forum on Friday morning left us gaping with delight when we discovered that the Temple of Romulus was open to the public.  We’d never been in before, so we rushed the door and stood in awe as we looked around the interior.

Built by the Roman Emperor Maxentius (reigned AD 306-312), who dedicated the building to his son Romulus who died at age four in AD 309, the exterior building is fitted out with a fine pair of bronze doors (that actually came from an earlier building of c. AD 200 and were re-used here, a couple of lovely porphyry columns (also spolia or re-used materials), and a beautifully carved, white marble door frame.

The Temple of Romulus–which remains marvelously intact even today–was transformed into a vestibule or antechapel for the Church of SS. Cosmas and Damian in 527 AD.  We were happy to see fragments of medieval frescoes inside, including those shown on the right, below, that make it appear as if luxurious drapery covers the buildings walls, and the altarpiece said to by the 13th century painter, Jacopo Torriti.

The Friday opening of the Temple of Romulus is part of a program called Archeologia d’Estate, in which generally inaccessible monuments are open to the public for the months of June, July, August, and September.  For those of you eager to pay a visit to some of these sites, the schedule is as folows;

On Tuesdays, the House of Livia and the House of the Griffins on the Palatine are open.

On Thursdays, the House of the Griffins and the Loggia Mattei (in which one can also see the frescoes from the Aula Isiaca) are open.

On Fridays, the Oratory of the 40 Martyrs and the Temple of Romulus in the Forum are open.

Temple of Romulus Interior in the Roman Forum

26
Jun

Photo Friday: Apples of Our Eyes

Regular eCool readers knows that photographer Susan Sanders loves to shoot Rome.  She likes to re-think the classic tourist view as much as she enjoys photographing the tourists themselves as they stand in awe of Rome’s majestic monuments.

Lately, however, Susan’s started shooting portraits of the people that interest her.  She’s been showing up at the Compound with wonderful images of men and women who are part of the fabric of everyday life.  We thought we’d show you some of those photographs today and so we’re showcasing a pair of images taken on a recent trip to Sperlonga. The charming subjects are a pair of fruttivendoli with a wonderful shop in the old town.  They sell the most amazing fruits and vegetables–no trip to Sperlonga would be complete without the purchase of a bag full of locally-grown tomatoes to nibble on the beach.

Their smiles tell us that they were happy to pose for Susan’s photo, which captures the congenial grace with which they greet their patrons.

For more photographs by Susan, visit her blog: Rome With A View.

23
Jun

Someone Saved My Life Today

Learn Mouth-to-Mouth Recessitation in Piazza Navona

Mouth-to-mouth resuscitation is no laughing matter, nonetheless it struck us as funny to see an informational demonstration of this rescue method taking place in Piazza Navona.  It’s those little juxtapositions of past and present, now and then, practical and drop-dead beautiful that we so love in the Eterna.

Mouth-to-mouth resuscitation in Piazza Navona

Having spent the morning plumbing the depths of Rome’s water system under the guidance of nymph-like water expert Katherine Rinne, we were strolling out of the northern end of the Piazza when a member of our walking-on-water party, Rock Star Rachel, let out a yelp of delight!  We followed her gaze and joined her in giggling at the sight of a (blond) Italian Resusci Annie laying on the Sampietrini stones that pave the piazza.  About her stood a rescue team clad in bright orange, who watched wearily as one of their representatives gave a public demonstration on basic life-saving methods.

Mouth-to-Mouth demonstration in Piazza Navona

22
Jun

Etruscan Laugh-In

Etruscan Comic by Milo Manara

Hey eCoolers!  The Compound is in a frenzy!  We’re so excited about an upcoming event that we can’t contain ourselves.  And we can’t wait even another moment to let you know about it.

Just hitting the press in Rome are reports that from 30 June - 25 October,  the National Etruscan Museum at the Villa Giulia will host an exhibit called Etruscomix - a mostra of Etruscan comics created by six Italian artists.

The young artists that produced these comics - Francesco Cattani, Marino Neri, Paolo Parisi, Michele Petrucci, Alessandro Rak, and Claudio Stassi - were chosen as “artists in residence in Etruria.”  Two were sent to the National Archaeological Museum at the Villa Giulia to explore its holdings for a week, while two others spent a week at the Banditaccia necropolis in Cerveteri and a further two spent a week at the Necropolis and Museum of Tarquinia.  In each Etrusco-locale, the artists immersed themselves physically and metaphorically (that’s what the announcement says) in history and material culture as they gathered inspiration for the fanciful artworks that are part of the exhibit.

Loving all things Etruscan in a fashion that’s almost unreasonable, we can’t wait to see the show and will report bakc with further information and images when it opens.  We’re also excited to report that they’re preparing a book of the comicspublished by Black Velvet and available for purchase.
The idea was conceived by the superintendency of archaeology in southern Etruria, facilitated by the region of Lazio, and organized by the cultural organization Civita and by COMICON in Naples.

The image above was created by cartoonist Milo Manara.

20
Jun

Press the 8

Press the 8 Publicity

Italy currently holds the presidency of the G8; consequently, a series of G8 meetings have already taken place on the Italian peninsula and another meeting is slated to happen in Trieste from 25-27 June when foreign ministers from eight major industrialized countries will gather to to discuss restoration of security and stability in Afghanistan and Pakistan.

Not surprisingly, the meetings have engendered a lot of political and social activism regarding pressing issues in Italy and beyond.  In April, Rome’s Piazza del Popolo was filled with panda bears in honor of the G8 environmental meeting that was scheduled to take place in Syracuse (where the bears were moved after their Rome debut), but was relocated to the region of the Abruzzo in order to heighten awareness of the earthquake damage there.

Now, the world’s largest anti-poverty alliance, the Global Call to Action against Poverty (GCAP), has devised a powerful new multi-media campaign aimed at exerting pressure on G8 nations to both accelerate efforts to address poverty and avoid using the recession as an excuse to renege on aid commitments.  With nearly a billion people hungry and global warming climbing to dangerous heights, GCAP’s ‘Press the 8’ public campaign was launched in Rome in early June by City Mayor Gianni Alemanno.

Dennis Howlett, Coordinator of the Canadian Make Poverty History campaign and member of the GCAP Global Council explains the goals of the campaign:

This year, GCAP is asking the G8 to not abandon commitments made to poor countries on account of the global economic recession. We the public are putting pressure on the G8 countries to give this crisis the same kind of priority as they have to bailing-out banks and car companies. The economic crisis, climate change and the food price crisis threaten to reverse the progress made on reducing poverty and achieving the Millennium Development Goals, We can’t let that happen, especially when we know that the poor are not responsible for the recession.

Press the 8 Website The campaign has a witty website (see photo above) that allows you to literally apply pressure to the leaders of the G8 countries as well as to sign a petition attesting to your support for the mission of the Global Call to Action against Poverty.

We love the website (it reminds us a bit of Jib Jab) and we’re also grooving with the “Contra la Poverta” print material that’s appearing in postcard form around Rome (see top photo and below).

Press the 8 Ad Campaign

19
Jun

Photo Friday: Throw Me a Life Raft

Float Shoppers in Sperlonga

It’s been sweltering hot in Rome for days (though forecasts say that the weekend will be better as temps will drop and there will be some rain) and as we mop the sweat from our brows, our minds wander and our imaginations summon up pictures of Italy’s idyllic seaside locales.  Let’s just say that we’re not managing to accomplish much in the eCool Compound right now - it’s just too hot to stay focused on the many tasks at hand.

Though not many of us eCoolers see a beach vacation coming our way anytime soon, we’d pretty much kill to be laying on a lounge chair, licking an ice cream, rubbing sunscreen on our skin, ducking our heads under the salty water, and enjoying the gentle seaside breeze.  Thus, the eCool team begged photographer Susan Sanders to provide us with a few photos that would illustrate our desires and she produced these fabulous snaps showing the wares of a float salesman as he makes his way up the beach at Sperlonga, a lovely little resort about halfway between Rome and Naples.

We love the bright colors of the plastic rafts and baby pools and we love the diligence with which the younger customers examine the wares.  For more images of Sperlonga by Susan, click on these links:  the whitewashed city center (oh to be sipping a prosecco in that piazza right now), more beach scenes (be warned - if you look at these you WILL leave your desk and head to nearest beach or pool immediately), and the ancient villa of the Roman Emperor Tiberius.

And you can always see more photos by Susan on her Rome With A View website.  While you’re at it, click over to Facebook and become a fan of Rome With a View.  That way you’ll get an update every time Susan publishes a new photo on her website (many of which never make it to the eCool blog.)

Floats for Sale on the Sperlonga Beach




 

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