Archive for the 'On Show' Category

16
Aug

So Michael Jackson & Augustus Walk Into a Bar…

Gold Glove at the Ara Pacis

So Michael Jackson and Augustus walk into a bar….

We’ve not really managed to finish the joke, having only come up with weak punchlines about first century thrillers and imperial moonwalks.

Our inability to figure out what happens in that imagined bar scene probably stems from the fact that Augustus would have hated Michael Jackson and vice versa–we can only imagine that the meeting of their carefully choreographed self-images would have produced an ugly clash.

That hasn’t stopped the city of Rome from celebrating these two historical figures in a single space, however.  A recent drive down the (blissfully deserted) Lungotevere alerted us to the fact that someone’s decided to honor Michael Jackson at the new Ara Pacis Museum.  There, visible through a massive glass window that faces the Tiber River, stand a sizable boot and glove that sparkle with golden glass mosaic tiles that could commemorate no one else but the King of Pop.

As far as we know, Augustus was never decked out in such a fashion (and would have sternly disapproved of anyone who accessorized their toga this way) but it’s not the first time that the Ara Pacis Museum has been used to display fancy dress, so maybe someone knows something we don’t.

12
Jun

Photo Friday: Food for Thought

Cheese Van in Rome, Italy

If the truth be known, sometimes we get a little desparate and overwhelmed here at the eCool Compound and need to turn off our brains.  That’s when we turn on the TV and watch an Italian variety show: we admire the handsomeness and cleverness of the host, we gaze in awe at the costumes and hairstyles sported by his flotilla of dancing women, we giggle at the silly things our suave host does and says, and we listen patiently to the commentary from nervous audience members who greet their entire off-screen family before getting around to asking a question.

That’s not why we watch those shows, though.  What we really like are the food commercials.  They’re so animated!  We can get ourselves whipped up into a frenzy when the cheese rises from the table and starts to sing (Pa-pa-pa-parmigiano! Watch that commerical here), the tomatoes start to dance, and the pasta jumps into the pan on its own.  That’s when we know all is right with the world and that makes us happy!

And so we were exceedingly pleased when photographer Susan Sanders made her way up to the eCool Compound with these photos in her trusty camera. It seems sthat she’d been out watching last week’s final stage of the Giro d’Italia, a time trial that took place on the streets of the Eterna, when she found herself surrounded with Italian food products that had grown wheels and were driving about the streets of the city!

A block of Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, complete with the kind of cheese knife that should be used for breaking it into chunks, had sprung atop a minivan and was wheeling its way through Rome!  A short period later it was followed by a giant jar of zucchini (we think) sott’olio, that is preserved in oil, a delicious appetizer that had mounted a small pickup truck and was crusing through Piazza Venezia.

For more photos by Susan, visit her Rome With a View blog.

Food truck in Rome

25
May

“I Introduced Liz to Beer and She Introduced Me to Bulgari”

Jewels from the Bulgari Exhibition in Rome, Italy

“I introduced Liz to beer and she introduced me to Bulgari.”  That’s a quote straight from the mouth of Richard Burton, describing his relationship with Liz Taylor and the time they spent together in Rome while making the blockbuster movie, Cleopatra, in the 1960s.  The cost of making Cleopatra nearly bankrupted Twentieth-Century Fox; Richard Burton’s wallet must have been lightened substantially too, judging from the display of Elizabeth Taylor’s private collection of jewels that’s part of the Bulgari exhibit at the Palazzo delle Esposizione titled, “Between Eternity and History.  125 Years of Italian Jewels.”

Celebrating the company’s 125th anniversary of activity in Rome and its rise to prominence as one of the leading jewelers of the world, the exhibit brings together nearly 500 objects created betwen 1884 and 2009.  The sparkling, glittering necklaces, bracelets, rings, tiaras, watches, cigarette cases, purses, and more are arranged in chronological and thematic sections, beginning with a display of silver artefacts manufactured by the founder of the firm, Sotirio Bulgari, a Greek silversmith who settled in Rome in 1881.

From there, one is treated to a Grand Tour of the Bulgari style, from diamond-set jewels in the Art Deco style to the emergence of the company’s own style in the 1960s to its innovative and daring designs of the 1980s and 1990s to the present day.  There are gorgeous and intricately-crafted objects and there are massive gems — a necklace created in 2009 is embellished (if one can use that word) with a 300 carat emerald.

It’s not just the jewels that are lovely.  This is one of the most finely mounted exhibits we’ve seen in Rome, with the exception only of the Valentino retrospective at the Ara Pacis Museum.  Fashion knows how to put on a pretty face in the Eternal City.  Visitors to the Bulgari exhibit make their way through darkened galleries, admiring the gorgeous jewels in illuminated cases, while watching clips from classic films in which divas like Anna Magnani, Ingrid Bergman, Gina Lollobrigida, Sophia Loren, and Liz Taylor wear Bulgari accessories — often those same objects on display in the room.

Palazzo delle Esposizione is located on Via Nazionale in Rome and the Bulgari exhibit is on display until 13 September.  For more information, click here.

14
May

Tea with Butterflies in the Villa Borghese

Tea with Butterflies in the Villa Borghese

A few weeks ago, a spring day dawned clear and cool, and we found ourselves wandering the Villa Borghese, admiring the umbrella pines and watching children play peek-a-boo behind the statue of Byron.

Our stroll included a visit to the Galleria Borghese and because we were completely spent after two hours of admiring jaw-dropping Berninis and Caravaggios, we sought some refreshment, but weren’t interested in spending our afternoon in the Borghese’s own basement cafe.  Rather, we decided to immerse ourselves in the stunning light and air of a late April day, just wandering about and hoping that a little sip of something might present itself.  That’s when we discovered Tea & Butterflies, an event currently being staged in the Uccelleria or Aviary of the Borghese villa.

Tea with Butterflies in the Villa Borghese

We entered through the Meridiana, or sun dial, of the villa, paying a mere 7 euro (5 if you have a Feltrinelli Piu card or are a child or senior citizen) for an encounter with some of nature’s most beautiful winged creatures and a tea in a baroque birdcage. After a stroll through the formal gardens (above) we made our way into the Uccelleria, slipping through nets placed at the door to help contain the butterflies flying unconstrained inside.

The aviary,  built in the early 17th century — at almost the same time as the Villa (now museum) — was built to house the Borghese’s collection rare birds, a function we know that it served in the years from 1616-19, for archival records attest to the fact that exotic species were on view there.

Tea with Butterflies in the Villa Borghese

Inside this splendid and over sized birdcage, various species of butterflies flew about, often landing on walls embellished with fragments of the original 17th-century frescoes depicting agricultural scenes, pergolas, festoons and birds.

Knowing practically nothing whatsoever about butterflies, we were fascinated to see them in all stages of life, from the caterpillars (which seemed to be crawling about in a bed of some wild green vegetable of the type that’s common in every Roman trattoria–ma, what else would one expect a Roman caterpillar to eat?) to beautiful winged creatures emerging from cocoons to full-grown specimens that gracefully flapped about as we sipped tea and munched on biscotti.

All-in-all, it’s a lovely event, so if you’re making  your way on over to the Villa Borghese and want to add some nature to your artistic experience, you can do so through 23 May.  Tea with Butterflies is open from 9:30am to 6:30pm.

Tea with Butterflies at Rome's Villa Borghese

13
May

Vespasian Celebrates His 2000th Birthday

Flavian Portraits in the Curia in Rome

Those readers planning to be in Rome in 2009 may be interested to know about a special exhibit currently being held in the Colosseum and Forum and on the Palatine Hill.   Assembled in honor of the 2000th anniversary of the birth of the Roman Emperor Vespasian, who was born on 17 November in the year 9 AD (Put that on your calendar and start looking for Colosseum cupcakes for the party.)

The exhibit celebrates Vespasian, but also his sons Titus and Domitian, who, like their father, ruled Rome in the second half of the first century AD. Following the suicide of Nero in AD 68, an event that marked the end of the Julio-Claudian dynasty’s rule of the Roman Empire, and a struggle for control over Rome and its territories, Vespasian was crowned emperor by the Roman army while fighting the bloody Jewish Wars.  He returned to Rome triumphant and along with major achievements in Roman law, is best known for having built the Colosseum in AD 70-80.

Flavian Exhibit in the Senate House in the  Roman Forum

Most of the objects documenting the life and achievements of Vespasian and his sons are on display in the Colosseum, though organizers of the exhibit have made an effort to fold those monuments built by the three Flavian emperors into the mostra by providing a special audioguide that allows visitors to move from the Colosseum exhibit, through the Forum, and across the Palatine to see the Arch of Titus, the Flavian Palace,
the Temple of Vespasian and the Temple of Peace, all the while learning about the achievements of Vespasian, Titus, and Domitian.

Admittedly, we don’t much like this new-ish trend of hosting special exhibits in the Colosseum (too crowded, too much chaos to allow one to really concentrate) and the exhibit as a whole is a bit hard to follow while navigating Rome’s ancient landscape.  Nonetheless, we are thrilled that organizers saw fit to display portraits of the Flavian emperors–some colossal–in the Curia or Senate House in the Roman Forum.

Flavian Exhibit in the Curia

Usually off-limits to visitors, the display of these portraits (most have been brought to Rome from the Naples Archaeological Museum, having been found in Pompeii and Herculaueum, as Titus was the reigning emperor when Vesuvius erupted and destroyed those cities), the exhibit offers a fabulous opportunity to get into Senate House.

Not only are visitors enjoying the chance to examine the visages of Titus and Vespasian up-close and in-person, but the staging of a part of the exhibit in the Curia allows one to admire the beautiful inlaid marble or opus sectile pavement and the Plutei of Trajan, two huge marble reliefs showing the Emperor Trajan performing such grandiose deeds as the institution of the alimenta, a charitable organization for orphans, and destruction of tax records, a gesture of fiscal pardon.

For more information about the Flavian Exhibit, properly titled The Divine Vespasian, visit the Comune di Roma website.

Flavian Exhibit in the Curia

12
Mar

A Fight to the Death at the Palazzo Massimo

Portonaccio Sarcopahgus

If you read our entry yesterday, then you know that National Archaeological Museum is celebrating the 10th anniversary of its Palazzo Massimo branch with a special exhibit called “Discovering the Massimo.”   In honor of the fact that this fantastic museum has been open for a decade, they’ve cleaned up and restored some amazing ancient objects that have been out of the public eye for some time.

Yesterday we told you about the Doria-Pamphili Colombarium on display as part of this exhibit.  Today, we bring you some super-cool photos of the Portonaccio Sarcophagus which is also making an extraordinary appearance.

The Portonaccio Sarcophagus in Rome

Found in the Portonaccio area of Rome, along the Via Tiburtina, this newly-cleaned sarcophagus is carved in high relief and dates between 180-200 AD.  It seems to have been used for the burial of a Roman general involved in the campaigns of Marcus Aurelius, who is depicted charging into battle on horseback front near the center of the scene on the front of the sarcophagus (see uppermost photo as well as the photo on the left directly above).

If you look closely at the face of the general, you’ll see that it’s unfinished. Scholars suggest that the sarcophagus was carved in a sculptor’s workshop and the face of the general was left blank, with the idea that it would be carved to resemble the deceased person it housed when the sarcophagus was purchased.  For one reason or another, that never happened.

All around the general, Roman soldiers bravely slay their barbarian enemies, some of whom have fallen to the ground and are being trampled in the melee, and others of whom seem to be begging for mercy (see the image on the right, above).

The Portonaccio Sarcophagus in Rome

Almost indubitably, the Romans won this battle, a fact that is attested on the left and right edges of the front panel, where over-sized barbarians captured in war are chained and restrained, while terrifying Roman trophies display the arms and armor of those defeated in the war (see above, left, and below).

Such sarcophagi, of course, were meant to commemorate the dead and their achievements, as well as to elevate them in the eyes of those who would have seen and admired the carved coffins in which they were laid to rest.  Though 1800 years old, the Portonaccio Sarcophagus continues to serve this function, as its fine craftsmanship wows and amazes, especially seen under spotlights in a dark room, as currently displayed in the Palazzo Massimo.

For information on the Palazzo Massimo and its special exhibits, see the city of Rome’s tourism site (www.romaturismo.com) or the museum Web site, archeoroma.beniculturali.it/it/palazzo_massimo, which is in Italian-only.

Trophy on the Portonaccio Sarcophagus

11
Mar

Dead and Buried: A Colombarium at Palazzo Massimo

The Doria-Pamphili Colombarium in Rome's Palazzo Massimo Museum

Over the course of the past decades, the city of Rome has been busy reorganizing its system of National Archaeological Museums.  For about one hundred years, starting in  the late nineteenth century, the bulk of Rome’s expansive collection of antiquities was displayed at the Baths of Diocletian.  In the 1990s, however, the objects were divided up between four differen sites and spread across the city.

While all four branches of the museum are chock-full of interesting artworks and artifacts, it’s the Palazzo Massimo that we love the most.  From the extraordinary frescoes that once graced the walls of the Empress Livia’s dining room to the colossal bronze sculpture of the Hellenistic Prince, the permanent collection of the Palazzo Massimo is simply awe-inspiring.

And now they’ve made it better.  Until June 7th, a special exhibit called “Discover the  Massimo” celebrates the 10th anniversary of the opening of the Palazzo Massimo by putting on display some newly restored paintings and sculptures — some of which have been out of the public eye for quite some time.

Bird in the Doria Pamphili Colombarium

On a recent trip to the museum, we were quite happy to see that as part of the exhibit, archaeologists and restorers have fitted out a room with some 200 square meters of frescoes from a first-century columbarium, or burial chamber for cinerary urns, that was excavated between 1838 and 1922 in the Villa Doria Pamphili, Rome’s largest park.

What a treat!  Though various colombaria have been excavated in and around Rome, none are open to the public, so the exhibition gives its visitors a chance to study a kind of Roman funerary architecture that’s normally not on view.

Painting from the Doria-Pamphili Colombarium

The term colombarium comes from the Latin colomba (dove), and the term originally referred to compartmentalized housing for doves and pigeons but was chosen by modern excavators to describe built tombs, the walls of which were lined with niches to hold cremation urns.

Such individual niches (visible in the photo of the museum exhibit above and the bottommost photo in this entry which shows the Doria Pamphili colombarium as it looked when excavated) were frequently marked by memorial plaques and portrait sculptures.  As well, the walls of the colombaria were often decorated with painted images of mythological stories, landscape scenes, and animals, like those seen here.

Painting from the Doria Pamphili Colombarium

Studies suggest that the popularity of colombaria in Rome was due, in part, to rising population and the need to dispose of a large number of bodies in an environment in which land for tombs was at a premium.  The construction of such built tombs that could house the remains of hundreds of individuals certainly seems to provide a logical solution, though one that would be available to only some classes of society, for burial in a colombarium was not an inexpensive endeavor.  Inscriptions tell us that they were built by collegia, cooperative funeral clubs, in which members contributed to a joint tomb.

For information on the Palazzo Massimo and its special exhibits, see the city of Rome’s tourism site (www.romaturismo.com) or the museum Web site, archeoroma.beniculturali.it/it/palazzo_massimo, which is in Italian-only.

The Doria Pamphili Colombarium

19
Nov

Caesar Recaptures Rome!

Bust of Julius Caesar

In 49 BC, Julius Caesar fearlessly led his army to Rome and assumed control of the strife-torn city.  Now, almost 2000 years later, Caesar has taken the city by storm once again, this time as the subject of an exhibit examining his life and legacy.  Titled, “Julius Caesar – Man, Feats and Myth,” the exhibit can be seen at the Cloister of Bramante, adjacent to the church of Santa Maria della Pace.  Touted as the first show ever to focus solely on Caesar, “Julius Caesar – Man, Feats, and Myth” showcases some 200 objects, ranging in date from antiquity to the 20th century.

The exhibit begins by recounting Caesar’s biography through the presentation of objects related to his life and achivements.  Marble portrait busts of the great dictator and his  contemporaries, Greek-influenced luxury objects of types common in Rome during Caesar’s life, arms and armor from the Gallic Wars,  Egyptian and Egyptianizing objects testifying to his stint in Egypt and his affair with Cleopatra, and fragments from the public architecture he constructed in Rome paint a vivid picture of Caesar’s life and achievements.

Sculpture depicting Venus Genetrix

But this exhibit goes beyond biography to examine how the myth of Caesar developed in the centuries since following his assassination in 44 BC.  It first examines his divinization and the cult that sprang up in the immediate years after Caesar’s death, and then moves on to document the legends about him that survived the Middle Ages and attracted fresh attention during the Renaissance, when the Roman noble, Cesare Borgia, honored his namesake by commissioning an intricately crafted sword with the motto “Aut Caesar, aut nihil” or “Caesar or nothing.”

The exhibition also shows how, in the Neoclassical era of the 18th and 19th centuries, Caesar became newly popular, winning the admiration of such military greats as Napoleon Bonaparte, who was fascinated by the achievements of his imperial forerunner.  A host of paintings by such artists as Rubens and Tiepolo remind the viewer of the ways in which Caesar served as a role model in the era of European nation building.

Finally, a small theater attests to our continued fascination with Caesar. Running in a constant loop are excerpts from famous films that made Caesar a star on the silver screen in the 20th century.

Julius Caesar: Man, Feats, and Myth.  On exhibit until 3 May 2009.  Via della Pace. Tue – Fri 10:00 – 20:00, Sat – Sun 10:00 -21:00.  10 euro entrance fee.  On Tuesdays, entrance is reduced to 7 euro.

Bust of Octavian

29
Jul

St. Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds

St. Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds

A few weeks ago we admired the artistic allusions in the work of Ozmo, a street artist who seems unable to leave the past behind. Today, we bring you another detail of the work he created for the Scala Mercalli exhibit at Rome’s auditorium.

In this passage from a much larger work, Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds becomes St. Lucy in the sky (of course, there are diamonds hovering in the atmosphere as well) and the saint (patroness of the blind) is represented by the very eyes that medieval accounts of her life claimed weer gouged prior to her martyrdom.

See more of Ozmo’s work: Smited by a Nike Swoosh.

22
Jul

The Making of the Via dei Fori Imperiali

Photos from an Exhibition on the Making of Rome's Via dei Fori Imperiali

As many readers will know, Fascist dictator Benito Mussolini carved an imperial procession route through the heart of the ancient Roman city center, laying a wide road, now called the Via dei Fori Imperiali, that stretches from the Colosseum to Piazza Venezia.

In creating the road that he called Via dell’Impero or Street of the Empire (the name was changed in 1945), Mussolini and his archaeologist, Corrado Ricci, destroyed a great number of renaissance and medieval buildings and quickly plowed through any number of ancient archaeological deposits as well as important ancient buildings and their surroundings.

Starting tomorrow, 23 July, the Capitoline Museums will be hosting an exhibition  documenting the vast process of demolition and excavation by which the road was created and Mussolini’s excavation of parts of the Forum of Augustus, the Forum of Caesar, the Forum of Nerva, and the Forum and Markets of Trajan.

140 works — among them photos, paintings, frescoes, and ancient sculptures — will be on exhibit.

The exhibition is titled “L’invenzione dei Fori Imperali. Demolizioni e scavi: 1924-1940,” and it will remain on view until 23 November.

Photos from an Exhibition on the Making of Rome's Via dei Fori Imperiali




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