Archive for the 'Historic Sites' Category



27
Apr

At Gramsci’s Grave

Tomb of Gramsci in Rome's Protestant Cemetery

Today, in Rome’s Protestant Cemetery, the life of Antonio Gramsci, an Italian writer, politician and political theorist is being celebrated. Gramsci, who died on April 27, 1937 - sixty-one years ago - was a founding member and onetime leader of the Communist Party of Italy, before being imprisoned by Mussolini’s Fascist regime.

One of the great intellectuals of twentieth-century Italy, Gramsci is considered to be among the most important of Marxist thinkers.  Among his literary works are more than 30 notebooks and 3000 pages of history and analysis written during his imprisonment and known as the Prison Notebooks.  They trace Italian history and nationalism and are important expressions of Gramsci’s Marxist theory, critical theory and educational theory.

Gramsci died in Rome at the age of 46. His grave in the Protestant Cemetery - decorated with the flowers and wreaths that are brought to the cemetery by his followers and admirers and on the anniversary of his death each year - is shown in the photo above.

21
Apr

Birthday of Rome: 2761 Years Old!

Parade Celebrating the Birthday of Rome

Today marks Rome’s 2761st birthday! From our point of view, she’s a birthday girl who looks infinitely younger than her estimable age. Happy Birthday Roma!

Parade for Rome's 2761st Birthday

Here at the eCool Compound, we began our celebration two days ago, when we attended a re-enactment of the Parilia rites celebrated by the ancient Romans every year on 21 April. The fun continued yesterday when a thousand historic reenacters dressed as gladiators, emperors, Vestal Virgins, and senators marched from the Circus Maximus to the Colosseum and down the Via dei Fori Imperiali. We posted some photos of that fabulous parade yesterday and are here to bring you more today.

Parade for Rome's 2761st Birthday

Crowds of centurions patiently waited as those less-organized participants in the parade made their way down the street.

Parade for Rome's 2761st Birthday

Everyone was decked out in their finest ancient gear. Admittedly we never thought of topping off our helmet with a wolf skin, but the effect is fantastic - and, let’s face it, not everyone feels comfortable in chain mail so we admire these guys who are willing to weld it on for this very special occasion.

Parade for Rome's 2761st Birthday

While the outfits were impressive, its the accessories that really make the Roman, and those on display in this parade were nothing to scoff at! From standards to swords and from lion skins to silver face masks, this crowd clearly understood the importance of accouterments.

Parade in honor of Rome's 2761st Birthday

Even the kids got into the act, donning laurel wreaths and “giallo-rosso” tunics as they joined in the celebration.

Parade for Rome's 2761st Birthday

20
Apr

Birthday of Rome: Celebrating in Rank and File

Parade in honor of Rome's 2761st Birthday
This week we’ve been celebrating the first birthday of the eCool blog. We’re happy to report that eCool is proving to be a big success - in each of the past few months we’ve had 60,000-80,000 hits and we take that as a sign that there’s lots of people interested in all that’s hip and happening in Rome! So Happy Birthday eCool!

But even bigger things are afoot this weekend as the Eternal City is celebrating its 2761st birthday with a host of events - from concerts to the extraordinary opening of archaeological sites to the re-enactment of ancient rituals (click to read yesterday’s post). As far as we’re concerned, however, the e-Coolest of all the events is the annual parade staged by the Gruppo Storico Romano in which thousands of historic re-enactment groups from across Europe march through Rome’s ancient city center, in celebration of the city’s long history.

We’re your eyewitness for the event, so enjoy the photos and stay tuned for more posts about this and other events in coming days.

Miss Goddess Roma

Each year in honor of the holiday, the Gruppo Storico Romano holds a “Goddess Roma” contest in which they choose a young woman to lead the parade in the guise of the goddess Roma. She’s seen above, sporting her war helmet and holding the orb of the earth in her hand.

Parade Celebrating Rome's 2761st Birthday

The goddess is escorted through the city by Romans of every variety. This year historic reenactment groups from Italy, England, Holland, Spain, Switzerland, Poland, Germany, and Croatia joined in the fun, putting on a spectacular display of ancient costumes.

Parade in Honor of Rome's 2761st Birthday

Military maneuvers not seen for centuries were expertly executed on the Via dei Fori Imperiali.

Gladiators in the Parade Celebrating Rome's Birthday

Gladiators of every rank, status, age, and gender joined in the fun (see above) - often threatening the well-being of innocent spectators along the parade route - though even more ominous was the presence of the Three Fates (see below).

Three Fates in Rome's Birthday Parade

More photos tomorrow on Rome’s actual birthday. In the meantime, we’re busy baking a she-wolf cake!

19
Apr

Birthday of Rome: Extra Virgin

The Imperial Family Celebrating the Birthday of Rome

The story of Rome’s foundation is an action-packed tale populated by gods, heroes, kings, priestesses, and she-wolves - there’s scarcely a city in the world that could claim such an exciting beginning!

A king is overthrown and his daughter is forced to take a vow of chastity. Despite the girls’ good intentions, she is seduced by the war god Mars and finds herself pregnant with twin boys. Upon birth, the babies are taken from their mother and exposed on the banks of the Tiber River. Their lives, however, are saved when a she-wolf finds the children and takes them home to live alongside she and her newly-born pups. They are then rescued by a shepherd and his wife who raises them as their own children.

Later in life, these same boys, Romulus and Remus, decide to honor the astounding way in which their lives were saved by founding a city on the banks of the Tiber. They quarrel, however, about who will head up the city, and in an effort to insure his primacy, Romulus kills his brother Remus before founding the city of Rome on April 21st, 753 BC. Wow! It’s more of a mini-series than a story!

Vestal Virgins Celebrating the Birthday of Rome

In antiquity, the exciting legend of Romulus, Remus, and the She-Wolf was commemorated and honored in a variety of manners. The Lupercal, or the cave in which Romulus and Remus were believed to have lived with the wolf family was kept as a holy shrine on the side of Rome’s Palatine Hill, while the hut in which Romulus lived after founding the city (also on the Palatine), was likewise considered a holy place.

While the careful preservation of such heritage sites meant that ancient Romans (and no doubt many tourists) could follow the Romulean-trail through Rome, paying visits to places associated with the city’s founder and its earliest history - just as Americans today might follow the Lincoln Trail or visit sites important to the life of George Washington - the Romans also recalled their city’s foundation with a religious that was held each year on the city’s birthday, 21 April.

Vestal Virgins Celebrating the Palilia

On Roman religious calendars, 21 April was the day designated for the celebration of the Parilia - a festival held in honor of the god (or goddess - no one is sure) Pales who watched over and protected shepherds. Because Romulus and Remus began their lives in the care of a shepherd (and no doubt did some sheep herding themselves), it was commonly thought that Romulus must have been the first to have performed these rites as he founded his city.

So what do the rites entail? This evening - a bit in anticipation of Rome’s birthday - we got a glimpse of this festival when it was re-enacted by the Gruppo Storico Romano in front of the Temple of Hercules (formerly believed to be the Temple of Vesta) in Rome’s Forum Boarium.

In the presence of the Imperial Family (see top photo in this post), the Vestal Virgins processed to the front of the temple where they undertook a public purification by means of fire and smoke, burning the blood of an October Horse (the right hand horse of the team that won a particular chariot race on October 15 of the previous year), the ashes of an unborn calf, and the shells of beans. (We take this opportunity to emphasize that this was a re-enactment and that no animals were harmed in the recreation of this ritual.)

Smoke and spectators were in abundance as these six honorable virgins officiated at the rites meant to bring health and wealth for shepherds - but also to the city of Rome. And the performance was but a warm-up for the star-studded super-parade that will be staged by the Gruppo Storico Romano tomorrow in honor of Rome’s 2761st birthday. Stay tuned!

Vestal Virgins Re-enacting the Parilia

17
Apr

Tidying Up the Temple of Portunus

Temple of Portunus in Rome

Some months ago, when we published a brief article about Rome’s lovely little Temple of Portunus, we became aware that there are readers out there who are utterly and completely dedicated to this architectural gem. Thus, when a bit of recent web-surfing led us to a series of photos documenting how the temple and its position in the city have changed over time - as well as others depicting photos of the newly restored and conserved medieval frescoes inside - we were inspired to share the images with you.

As our February article discussed, the Temple of Portunus (once called the Temple of Fortuna Virilis) is currently being cleaned and restored. But, as the images here will show, it’s not the first time that this temple has been subjected to a bit of tidying up. For most of its post-antique life, the building was encased in the dense urban fabric that grew up around sturdy ancient monuments in the Middle Ages. It was liberated from these structures only in the early 20th century.

One can see just how cramped and crowded was the area round the temple in the print made by Piranesi in 1758 (above, left) in which one sees the Temple (really, at the time, a church as it was consecrated to the Virgin Mary c. 872 AD) with its left side disappearing into the wall of an abutting and later building. And the relationship between the two buildings is even clearer in the adjacent photo (above, right) taken in 1860.

Temple of Portunus in Rome

Like so many ancient ruins, the Temple of Portunus was “liberated” under the reign of Italy’s fascist dictator, Benito Mussolini. The process by which the abutting buildings were demolished is seen in the photos above, taken in 1924. While one of Mussolini’s aims was certainly that of showcasing such ancient artifacts as this first century BC temple, in this part of town his urban demolition was meant to fulfill another goal as well - that of creating a broad street that would lead from Rome’s historic center towards the sea - a road today known as Via Petroselli.

Fresco in Rome's Temple of Portunus

Mussolini’s “liberation” of the temple led to the discovery of early Christian frescoes inside the structure. Dating in the eighth or ninth century AD, the paintings show images from the life of the Virgin Mary as recounted by apocryphal texts. Though these frescoes have been known for some 90 years, they’re only now being cleaned and restored as part of the greater conservation and consolidation effort at the temple.

This recent conservation work allows us to see these frescoes clearly for the first time and they’re quite stunning. Above, is an image of Saint John the Baptist. Below, left, an image of soldiers, and below, right, a fragment of a fresco depicting the Virgin Mary.

For more on the Temple of Portunus, click here.

Medieval Frescoes at the Temple of Portunus, Rome

11
Apr

Alitalia Going Under?

Alitalia Plane in the Trevi Fountain

Yesterday, 10 April, workers from an Alitalia maintenance unit threw a model of an Alitalia airplane during a demonstration protesting the struggling airline’s possible takeover.
Italy’s government on Thursday sought to convince Alitalia’s unions that a takeover by Air France-KLM was the ailing carrier’s only option, telling labor groups they had one last chance to agree to a deal.

Is Alitalia Drowning?

11
Apr

A Fortuitious Find at the Flavian Amphitheater

Colosseum Reconstruction Showing Statues in Arches

Via AKI - A fragment of an ancient Roman equestrian statue that once adorned the Colosseum has been found during excavations near the world famous Italian landmark.

According to the Italian daily, Il Messaggero, the fragment was discovered among the remains of an ancient pavement that once surrounded the amphitheater.

“A marble fragment measuring one meter by a meter and a half, is from an equestrian statue, probably a statue that embellished the arches of the Colosseum,” said archaeologist Silvana Rizzo, advisor to the minister of culture and tourism, Francesco Rutelli.

“The left flank of a rider with the detail of a leg, bridle and harness of a horse, as well as a part of a dagger scabbard are perfectly visible from the fragment,” said Rizzo, who has spent his life doing Roman excavations.

“They are details that suggest the statue of an emperor and left us with the hope that we could find the entire statue.”

According to Il Messaggero, the archaeological find is a reminder of how many pieces of ancient sculpture are discovered on a regular basis in the Italian capital when centimeters of soil are swept away.

Angelo Bottini, Rome’s archaeological superintendent, called the discovery of the equestrian statue “an exceptional discovery”.

“What’s clear is this new discovery is the umpteenth demonstration of the underground surprises in Rome that are a gift to us,” Bottini told the Italian daily.

The new discovery could shed light on the statues that once adorned the exterior wall of the Colosseum.

The Colosseum, also known as the Flavian Amphitheatre, was constructed by the Emperor Vespasian in 72 A.D. and inaugurated by his son Titus in 80 A.D.

It was the largest amphitheater ever built in the Roman Empire and considered one of the greatest examples of Roman architecture and engineering.

But it has suffered extensive damage over the centuries due to earthquakes and pillaging.

The arches on the third floor of the Colosseum were decorated by three eagles, signs of power in Rome, while the second floor had statues of ancient gods such as Hercules, Apollo and Aesculapius.

Experts believe the uncovered equestrian fragment could have been part of a statue above the Imperial entrance to the amphitheater.

More archaeological discoveries are expected to be uncovered as the city proceeds with construction of its third subway line near the Roman Forum, in the heart of the Italian capital.

Construction on the 30-station line has already been interrupted several times as archaeologists have uncovered ancient and medieval treasures.

Under Italy’s strict conservation laws, the city must decide whether any historic objects are removed or preserved.

The 4.6 billion dollar subway line is expected to be completed in 2015.

06
Apr

Spring at the Protestant Cemetery

Spring at Rome's Protestant Cemetery

Ahhh!  Spring!  Though today the Roman newspapers have announced that this spring is one of the coolest we’ve had in years (and, happily, they’re predicting a cool-ish summer as well), it IS starting to warm up and the sun is moving back toward the center of the sky.

As a result, Rome’s green spaces are flourishing.  The plane trees along the Tiber River have been gray skeletons for months, but suddenly their graceful branches have disappeared and  leaves have sprouted.  The Judas trees that line any number of streets in the Eterna have burst into gorgeous purple blossoms.  And even the wisteria that climbs on and over fences and apartment buildings has begun to flower.

All of this sprouting and blooming means that any plant or garden lover should head immediately to Rome’s Protestant Cemetery, where trees, bushes, and plants are all topped with an abundance of light green leaves that mark new growth.  The peonies are blooming and so are the irises.  And the air smells like damp soil and wild onions.

We at the eCool compound regularly find our peace at this place - a visit is like a holiday in the country without having to leave town.

For more information about the cemetery’s history and the literary luminaries buried within, click here.  Via Caio Cesto, 6.  Open 9am to 4:30pm everyday.

Spring in Rome's Protestant Cemetery

03
Apr

Restoring the Circus Maximus

Model of the Circus Maximus in Antiquity

From the Independent:

It still bears its thrilling ancient name, and the antique ruins on the Palatine Hill, the heart of ancient Rome and home of the Caesars, still gaze down upon it. But now it takes a feat of the imagination to see Circus Maximus as it must have been in its pomp.

Today it is little more than a long, narrow park, 340 metres in length, with a small archeological dig fitfully in progress at its south-eastern end. It can still hold a crowd: Genesis played a free concert here last year, and Bob Geldof persuaded Rome’s mayor, Walter Veltroni, to let him use it for the Italian leg of the Live-8 spectacular in 2005. The rest of the time it is the haunt of dog-walkers, joggers and the occasional conceptual artist.

But 2,000 years ago this was the most exciting spot in the city. Long before the building of the Colosseum, crowds in their hundreds of thousands packed the stands to watch 12 teams of charioteers scorch the earth. Gladiators and wild animals fought in mortal combat, and the central arena was often flooded so miniature triremes could battle it out for the Romans’ delight. If a particularly large number of people had to be crucified, Circus Maximus was the obvious place to do it.

The strip’s last big show was in AD549. Then the Barbarians arrived and laid it to waste, and for the next millenium and a half it was no more than a very large allotment with a fancy name.

But now, after the centuries of neglect and years of debate and campaigning, Circus Maximus is finally to get some attention. Beginning on 20 June, the city’s archeological authorities are to begin a careful and respectful restoration.

Eugenio La Rocca, Superintendent of Rome and lecturere in archeology at Rome’s Sapienza University, said: “We are trying to realise the old dreams that Rome has maintained from the 19th century up to the present. We will do our best to restore this site, which was of the utmost importance in our history. ”

[King] Tarquin drained the site 2,500 years ago, but it was Julius Caesar in 46 BC who erected the first buildings here, which were consumed by fire in AD64. With the Emperor Trajan, the performances began to assume the wondrous proportions that we only know today from films.”

Professor La Rocca stressed that he will not be attempting to restore the Circus to its former glory. “We will clean up the whole site to make it practicable and legible, and give it a simple curved enclosure,” he said. During chariot races the long track was divided by a raised spine of beaten earth, and this is one element the authorities plan to recreate.

They will also continue excavating, with greater urgency. Despite the fame of the Circus, Professor La Rocca told La Repubblica newspaper, “Paradoxically we have little information about it. Pliny claimed it could hold 250,000 spectators but others said 150,000, which seems much more likely.” Treasures recovered from the Circus and other sites will eventually find a home in a new Museum of the City of Rome, to be built a few steps away.

Rome's Circus Maximus Today

03
Apr

Say Cheese, Please!

Cheese-eating centurion at Rome's Colosseum

Over the course of the past few weeks, the world press has spent a great deal of time and energy debating the safety of one of Italy’s greatest natural resources - the seemingly inexhaustible supply of buffalo mozzarella. The garbage strike in Naples - and other unseemly factors - have led many to believe that mozzarella from the Campania region around Naples may be contaminated with dioxin and other toxins.

In reaction to such fears, the region of Lazio (north of Campania, where Rome is located) staged a public event yesterday. Regional administrators and some 38 mayors heralding from southern Lazio - an area producing a great deal of mozzarella - gathered at the Colosseum to distribute cheese and to assure the public that food products from this region are fresh, safe, and delicious.

A Roman centurion snacking on a mozzarella ball in Rome, Italy