Archive for the 'Historic Sites' Category



03
Apr

Restoring the Circus Maximus

Model of the Circus Maximus in Antiquity

From the Independent:

It still bears its thrilling ancient name, and the antique ruins on the Palatine Hill, the heart of ancient Rome and home of the Caesars, still gaze down upon it. But now it takes a feat of the imagination to see Circus Maximus as it must have been in its pomp.

Today it is little more than a long, narrow park, 340 metres in length, with a small archeological dig fitfully in progress at its south-eastern end. It can still hold a crowd: Genesis played a free concert here last year, and Bob Geldof persuaded Rome’s mayor, Walter Veltroni, to let him use it for the Italian leg of the Live-8 spectacular in 2005. The rest of the time it is the haunt of dog-walkers, joggers and the occasional conceptual artist.

But 2,000 years ago this was the most exciting spot in the city. Long before the building of the Colosseum, crowds in their hundreds of thousands packed the stands to watch 12 teams of charioteers scorch the earth. Gladiators and wild animals fought in mortal combat, and the central arena was often flooded so miniature triremes could battle it out for the Romans’ delight. If a particularly large number of people had to be crucified, Circus Maximus was the obvious place to do it.

The strip’s last big show was in AD549. Then the Barbarians arrived and laid it to waste, and for the next millenium and a half it was no more than a very large allotment with a fancy name.

But now, after the centuries of neglect and years of debate and campaigning, Circus Maximus is finally to get some attention. Beginning on 20 June, the city’s archeological authorities are to begin a careful and respectful restoration.

Eugenio La Rocca, Superintendent of Rome and lecturere in archeology at Rome’s Sapienza University, said: “We are trying to realise the old dreams that Rome has maintained from the 19th century up to the present. We will do our best to restore this site, which was of the utmost importance in our history. ”

[King] Tarquin drained the site 2,500 years ago, but it was Julius Caesar in 46 BC who erected the first buildings here, which were consumed by fire in AD64. With the Emperor Trajan, the performances began to assume the wondrous proportions that we only know today from films.”

Professor La Rocca stressed that he will not be attempting to restore the Circus to its former glory. “We will clean up the whole site to make it practicable and legible, and give it a simple curved enclosure,” he said. During chariot races the long track was divided by a raised spine of beaten earth, and this is one element the authorities plan to recreate.

They will also continue excavating, with greater urgency. Despite the fame of the Circus, Professor La Rocca told La Repubblica newspaper, “Paradoxically we have little information about it. Pliny claimed it could hold 250,000 spectators but others said 150,000, which seems much more likely.” Treasures recovered from the Circus and other sites will eventually find a home in a new Museum of the City of Rome, to be built a few steps away.

Rome's Circus Maximus Today

03
Apr

Say Cheese, Please!

Cheese-eating centurion at Rome's Colosseum

Over the course of the past few weeks, the world press has spent a great deal of time and energy debating the safety of one of Italy’s greatest natural resources - the seemingly inexhaustible supply of buffalo mozzarella. The garbage strike in Naples - and other unseemly factors - have led many to believe that mozzarella from the Campania region around Naples may be contaminated with dioxin and other toxins.

In reaction to such fears, the region of Lazio (north of Campania, where Rome is located) staged a public event yesterday. Regional administrators and some 38 mayors heralding from southern Lazio - an area producing a great deal of mozzarella - gathered at the Colosseum to distribute cheese and to assure the public that food products from this region are fresh, safe, and delicious.

A Roman centurion snacking on a mozzarella ball in Rome, Italy

28
Mar

Photo Friday Paris: Roman Redux

Tomb of Napoleon in Paris

Faithful readers may have noticed that we’ve been skimping on posts this week. That’s because some of us here at the eCool Compound took advantage of the Easter holidays and spent most of the week in Paris. While there we were continually reminded of Rome - particularly when looking at all things Napoleonic.

On this Photo Friday, Susan Sanders offers us a Parisian image that is Roman in scope and scale. The gargantuan Tomb of Napoleon Bonaparte at Les Invalides belies his physique but speaks volumes about his imperial ambitions.

Made of Russian porphyry (as Egyptian porphyry - that used to create the tombs of the Roman Emperors was out of stock), the massive sarcophagus rests under a gilded dome that reaches some 350 feet into the gray Parisian sky.

The imperial tomb - certainly meant to recall those in which Roman rulers like Hadrian were laid to rest - is positioned on axis with an altar covered by a canopy or baldacchino undeniably reminiscent of that which covers the Papal altar in Saint Peter’s Basilica.

So much Rome, so little time.

For more photographs by Susan Sanders, visit her Rome With A View blog.

15
Mar

Beware the Ides of March: 15 Ways to Caesar the Day

The Altar of Caesar in the Roman Forum

In Rome, where past and present happily co-exist, the ancient world is never far away.

The month of March, for example, brings visions of Mars, the studly god of war and the mythological “father” of Romulus and Remus, for whom the first month of the Roman year, Martius, was named.

But March also brings thoughts of the all-powerful Julius Caesar who mistakenly paid no heed to the omens that foretold his death. As a result, Caesar was assassinated15th of March in 44 BC as he entered a meeting of the Roman Senate. His death was orchestrated by a conspiracy of Senators who feared his increasing power and thought him a threat to the Roman Republic.

Julius Caesar’s assassins claimed he was a tyrant. Yet, since his death some 2051 years ago, innumerable writers and thinkers have debated the motives that compelled him to assume control of the Roman Empire. Was Caesar a noble man or was he an ambitious one? Did he aspire to restore the Republic or did he secretly aspire to be a king? The question remains unresolved and Caesar remains a pivotal figure in the history of the Western world.

On this Saturday, March 15, the anniversary of Julius Caesar’s death, we at the eCool Compound invite you to remember the Ides and to this end we offer 15 suggestions as to how you might Caesar the Day!

I. THROW A TOGA PARTY!
What better way to get into the spirit of the Ides than to spend an evening amongst friends, Romans, and countrymen?

Togas might be hard to keep on, but in certain situations that difficulty may prove advantageous. Don’t forget to buy enough ‘nectar of the gods’ and honeyed wine for everyone.

II. BRING FLOWERS TO CAESAR’S TEMPLE (see photo above)

Bad news! Shakespeare got it wrong! Caesar wasn’t killed on the Capitoline Hill (as the play suggests) or in the Forum (as many people believe). Rather, his assassination took place in the Portico of Pompey, near today’s Largo Argentina.

Caesar’s funeral was a public one. His body was carried to the Forum on an ivory couch and set upon on the Rostra or speaker’s platform in a gilded shrine modeled after the Temple of Venus he had recently built in Rome. Mark Antony delivered his famous speech and so moved the crowd that they took over the funeral. Instead of removing Caesar’s body out of the Forum for cremation as originally planned, it was burned in this most important public space. Two years later, Caesar was made a god and an altar and temple were erected on the site where his body had been cremated.

Each year on 15 March, Romans visit the ruins of the Temple of Divine Caesar in the Forum, leaving flowers in Caesar’s honor.

III. READ SHAKESPEARE’S JULIUS CAESAR
(or re-read it)

“Not that I lov’d Caesar less, but that I lov’d Rome more”

So says Brutus when he explains his decision to join the conspiracy against Caesar.

IV. HIP HOP WITH MARC ANTONY

Find the Bard a little old fashioned?

His Royal Hipness, Lord Buckley, recast Marc Antony’s Funeral Oration, transforming Shakespeare’s “Friends, Romans, countrymen, lend me your ears” into “Hipsters, flipsters and finger-poppin’ daddies: knock me your lobes.” You won’t want to miss Buckley’s brilliant adaptation of Antony’s famous speech.
Read more about Lord Buckley here and read all of Marc Antony’s Funeral Oration by going to this page and using the pull down menu to select the funeral oration.

V. GET APPOINTED DICTATOR

In late February of 44 BC, Caesar was made dictator for life, an appointment that spurred Brutus, Cassius and others to start plotting his death.

Caesar denied his autocracy - even refusing the crown of kingship when it was offered to him three times - but he did take the time to advertise his position by minting a coin that read “Caesar Dictator.”

The moral of the story: when appointed dictator, be careful!

VI. READ CAESAR’S MAIL

Thornton Wilder’s The Ides of March, first published in 1948, is a brilliant epistolary novel set in Julius Caesar’s Rome. Wilder called it “a fantasia on certain events and persons of the last days of the Roman republic.” Through vividly imagined letters and documents, Wilder brings to life a dramatic period of world history and one of history’s most magnetic, elusive personalities.

In this inventive narrative, the Caesar of history becomes Caesar the human being. Wilder also resurrects the controversial figures surrounding Caesar — Cleopatra, Catullus, Cicero, and others. All Rome comes crowding through these pages — the Rome of villas and slums, beautiful women and brawling youths, spies and assassins.

Buy Thornton Wilder’s Ides of March

VII. INVITE CAESAR INTO YOUR LIVING ROOM

HBO’s ROME series lets you watch Julius Caesar in wide-screen high-definition format. The dictator has never looked so good! Season One (now available on DVD) chronicles Caesar’s rise to power in Rome.

No spoilers here…we won’t tell you what happens to him on March 15, 44 BC. You’ll have to watch to find out.

Buy HBO’s ROME on DVD

VIII. ORDER CAESAR SALAD!

OK, Ok, it wasn’t named for Julius Caesar. But ordering a Caesar salad is a festive way to celebrate Caesar nonetheless.

Wow your friends with this fact: Caesar salad was invented in Tijuana in 1924 by Caesar Cardini, an Italian restaurateur and chef. It’s been croutons for everyone ever since!

IX. WATCH MARLON BRANDO PLAY MARC ANTONY

In Joseph Mankiewicz’s film version of Shakespeare’s Julius Caesar (1953), Marlon Brando plays the opportunistic Marc Antony and delivers the famous funeral speech with pure conviction.

James Mason plays the honorable Brutus, while John Gielgud is positively serpentine as the lean, hungry Cassius. Louis Calhern is an intelligent but sinister Caesar.

Buy Mankiewicz’s Julius Caesar

X. COME, SEE, CONQUER!

Pay homage to Julius Caesar by adopting his slogan “Veni Vidi Vici” - the phrase he so famously coined in 47 BC.

The now-famous expression was the only message Caesar sent back to the Roman Senate after his victory over Pharnaces II of Pontus in the Battle of Zela. His terse remark - translated as “I came, I saw, I conquered,” - simultaneously proclaimed the totality of his victory and served to remind the senate of his military prowess.

XI. CROSS THE RUBICON!

Rubicon is the ancient Latin name for a small river in northern Italy, near Ravenna. For the ancient Romans, the Rubicon was the border between the Italian peninsula and Cisalpine Gaule.

The river is notable as Roman law forbade any general from crossing with a standing army. When Julius Caesar crossed the Rubicon in 49 BC to make his way to Rome, he broke that law and effectively started the civil war that would catapult him to power.

XII. TURN YOUR CALENDAR TO JULY

The Roman Senate named the month of July for Julius Caesar. It was their way of honoring him after he reformatted the calendar, which had become a chaotic embarrassment. Bad calculations had caused the months to drift wildly across the seasons - January, for example, began in autumn.

The Julian calendar came into effect in 45 BC. It was created in consultation with Alexandrian astronomers, and had a regular year of 365 days divided into 12 month, with a leap year added to February every four years. Hence, the Julian year was on average 365.25 days long.

XIII. GET A HAIRCUT WITH FRINGE!

Tired of the same old look?

Surprise your friends with a fringe! Any reputable hairstylist can help you get the Caesar look. It’ll be great for the toga party.

XIV. ASK THIS QUESTION: “ET TU BRUTE!”

Do you find yourself siding with Caesar rather than against him? Proclaim your loyalties with Caesarian products from the Institute of Design + Culture in Rome’s City Shop, including a shirt that features Caesar’s (supposed) last words, “Et tu Brute.” The 23 gory stab wounds on the shirt are a real selling point too!

By the way, Caesar probably never said, “Et tu Brute.” But what does that matter?

But Et tu Brute Products at the iDC City Shop

XV. PAY A VISIT TO CAESAR’S PALACE! (see photo below)

“Let the dice fly high!” is what Caesar exclaimed when he dared to cross the Rubicon in 49 BC (at least according to some scholars). What he meant was “let the big gamble begin.” Little did he know that so many enthusiastic dice rollers would join him in Las Vegas two milennia later!

Caesar's Palace in Las Vegas

13
Mar

Passing Time

Lantern Slides of Rome from the Notre Dame Architecture Library

In perusing The Cranky Professor’s blog today (who, by the way, often appears to be much less cranky than we ourselves), we were alerted to the pleasant fact that the Architecture Library at Notre Dame University is uploading scans of their old lantern slides to Flickr under a Creative Commons license.

At the moment there’s about 700 images of pre-World War II Italy (and many slides of other places too) and they make for a wonderful tour across the boot-shaped peninsula. Click here to start your travels.

And to read about photographer Johanna Inman who makes art from old lantern slides, click here.

12
Mar

Beware the Ides of March: 44 BC Revisited

Death of Caesar by Vincenzo Camuccini

On March 15, 44 BC, Julius Caesar was stabbed 23 times as he entered a meeting of the Roman Senate despite having received a warning to “beware the Ides of March.” As the Ides are drawing near, we at the eCool Compound are going to spend the next few days paying homage to Julius Caesar. Thus, today we kick things off by setting the stage for his violent death.

If you could time travel and make your way back to 44 BC, what would you see? What did Caesar see in his final days as he strolled through Rome, unaware that 60 senators were plotting to take his life?

To answer these questions and to learn a bit about Rome, past and present, we recommend an insightful slideshow about Caesar’s Rome that was created by The Institute of Design + Culture in Rome.

Click here to revisit the Year 44 BC

Click here to learn what else The Institute of Design + Culture in Rome has on offer.

07
Mar

The Obelisk of Axum

View of Piazza del Popolo

Visitors to Rome soon become fascinated with the 13 ancient obelisks (8 Egyptian and 5 made by the Romans in imitation of the Egyptian - additionally there are 5 modern obelisks) that mark such majestic urban spaces as Piazza del Popolo (see image above), Piazza San Pietro, Piazza Montecitorio, and Piazza del Quirinale. The eight Egyptian obelisks were brought to Rome after 31 BC, when the Roman troops led by the Emperor-to-be Augustus decidedly routed those of Marc Antony and Cleopatra at the Battle of Actium. Besides putting the cinematic lovers out of business, the Battle of Actium marked the accession of Egypt into the Roman Empire. Elated about bringing such an old and wealthy Mediterranean civilization under their reign, the Romans celebrated by loading obelisks on boats, transporting them across the Mediterranean, erecting them in ancient Rome, and then eventually crafting their own look-alike monuments. Any resident or visitor to the city would have understood such obelisks to be trophies indicating Roman dominance over Egypt and North Africa.

Fast forward several millenia to the year 1937 when the Fascist dictator of Italy, Benito Mussolini, annexed Ethiopia in an effort to build a modern Roman Empire. Again following the model of ancient Emperors, Mussolini seized an 24-meter-tall obelisk dating to the third century BC from the holy city of Axum and had it transported to Rome (see image below) where it was erected next near the Circus Maximus, aside his “Ministry for Italian Africa” (now the headquarters of the United Nations’ Food & Agriculture Organization).

In 1947, after World War II, Italy signed a peace treaty with Ethiopia in which it agreed to return the obelisk, but it took a further half a century for that to happen with the obelisk becoming a source of contention between the two countries. That Italy ignored this obligation for so long outraged Ethiopians, who hold the city of Axum (now a UNESCO World Heritage Site) to be a place of special historic and religious importance. It was the seat of the powerful pre-Christian Axumite Empire, which thrived during the first millennium A.D., and also remains the holiest of cities for Ethiopian Orthodox Christians, who believe that the Ark of the Covenant resides in a church there.

The Obelisk of Axum in Rome

In 1997, under pressure from Italian, Ethiopian, and British intellectuals, a treaty was signed in which Italy agreed once again to return the obelisk - but again they did nothing to further the process, citing the border war between Ethiopia and Eretria as the cause for non-conformance. Then, in a dramatic nighttime thunderstorm in 2002, lightning struck the obelisk and sent pieces of it crashing to the ground - it was then that efforts to return the now-damaged antiquity got serious.

Finally, in 2005, the obelisk was dismantled and returned to Ethiopia. The process was an onerous one, best described by Ian Limbach in Archaeology Magazine:

When the Fascists removed the monument in the 1930s, they relied on newly built roads and bridges leading to the seaport at Massaua. Seventy years later, the infrastructure is decrepit and the port belongs to Eritrea. Relations between it and Ethiopia are virtually nonexistent.

The sole option was to fly the stele back in three 60-ton pieces on a Russian-built Antonov 124, the only plane capable of transporting such a load. Because Axum lies nearly 7,000 feet above sea level, the thin air meant that the gargantuan plane could only land when the temperature was below 60 degrees Fahrenheit. But since the airstrip lacks navigational aids, a night landing was ruled out. The only option was to land exactly at dawn. “Did we have doubts it could be done? Oh, yeah, right up to the end!” says Paul Furlonger, commercial vice president at Antonov Airlines.

Yesterday, the Italian ambassador to the East African country announced that Ethiopia is at last ready to re-erect the obelisk in Axum and will commence the project later this year after the final technical wrinkles are ironed out. Ambassador Raffaele de Lutio said that a concrete slipway leading up to the obelisk’s site had been completed and that the base itself has been reinforced to prevent the monument causing damage to a recently discovered necropolis. He voiced the hope that the official ceremony will take place ”within the first week of September, just before the Ethiopian New Year which falls on September 11”.

Transport of the Obelisk back to Axum

For more on the obelisks of Rome, read our story about the erection of the Vatican obelisk.

02
Feb

Photo Saturday: Sunshine on My Centurion

Sunshine on My Centurion.  Photo by Susan Sanders.

This week’s photograph from Susan Sanders brings us face to face with the Roman centurions at the Colosseum. We see an idle soldier standing in the foreground, enjoying the feel of the winter sun shining on his face, as his Imperial commander hovers above, clearly contemplating the well-being of the Roman Empire.

For more photographs by Susan, visit her photo blog, Rome With a View.

28
Jan

Out of Work at the Colosseum

Out of Work at the Colosseum.

Photograph by Susan Sanders.

19
Jan

Photo Saturday: At the Trevi

Rome's Trevi Fountain, Photo by Susan Sanders

Yes, we’re a day behind, making this Photo Saturday instead of Photo Friday. And, given that it’s a brilliantly sunny winter day today, we thought we’d feature Susan Sander’s recent Trevi Fountain photos as they so majestically showcase the dramatic contrast between light and dark that characterizes Rome in the winter months.

Rome's Trevi Fountain, a photo by Susan Sanders

In the two shots above, the stage set that is the Trevi (read more about that here) is made ever more dramatic by the angling shadows thrown by surrounding buildings. Seen this way, one realizes just how small is the space in which the Trevi stands, for it was inserted into a densely populated neighborhood when it was created.

Below, tourists rest on the rough-hewn rocks of the Trevi’s base, taking in the last glimmers of sunlight on an unusually warm winter day.

To see more of Susan’s evocative photographs of Rome, visit her website: romewithaview.com

Rome's Trevi Fountain, a photo by Susan Sanders




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