Archive for the 'Roman Holidays' Category



28
Dec

Roman Holidays: Formal Attire

Rome's Fendi Store, Christmas 2007

In honor of the holiday season, Rome’s new Fendi store (at Largo Goldoni) has donned her formal garb. Brilliantly illuminated with lights that change from pink to purple to blue, the upper stories of the Fendi building are wrapped with an intricately blinged belt that even features the Fendi logo on the buckle. Do they sell those?

Rome's Fendi Store, Christmas 2007

27
Dec

Roman Holidays: All I Want for Christmas…

Pizza Tree in Rome

…is a pizza!  That seems to be the message conveyed by the tree in the window of Pizza Ciro on Via della Vite, where the standard holiday tree is decorated with mini pizzas!  Maybe Santa (or Befana) delivers?

26
Dec

Roman Holidays: Lunch at Santa Maria in Trastevere

Christmas Lunch in the Basilica of Santa Maria in Trastevere in Rome

Each year on Christmas Day, the beautiful medieval church of Santa Maria in Trastevere (see below) is the site of a huge holiday banquet for Rome’s neediest residents. Staged by the Community of Sant’Egidio, a religious lay organization, the tradition began in 1982 when a small group of needy people was served Christmas lunch at a banquet table in the church. Since that time, the feast has expanded greatly. Each year hundreds dine in the basilica, served by volunteers who have spent weeks gathering supplies for the banquet. Presents are gathered as well, with gifts of games, toiletries, sewing sets, notebooks, radios, socks, ties, sweaters, hats, and more being presented to those who might otherwise go without gifts on the holiday.

This year 2000 individuals were served lunch in Santa Maria in Trastevere.  On the menu:  lasagna, meatballs, potato gateau, lentils, typical Christmas sweets, seasonal fruit, and prosecco.  (Another 8000 needy people were served Christmas meals in other locals and by other organizations in the city.)  For more information on this event (which now takes place throughout the world), click here.

Rome's Church of Santa Maria in Trastevere

25
Dec

Roman Holidays: Merry Christmas!

Christmas Tree at the Colosseum

Merry Christmas from Rome! More Roman Holidays updates coming up in the next week - so stay tuned! In the meantime, happy holidays to all!

24
Dec

Roman Holidays: A Christmas Eve Market Tour

Fish Monger in Rome's Testaccio Market
As with most Italian holidays, eating is a very important part of Christmas and it requires a lot of preparation. Thus the open-air markets and grocery stores were teaming with shoppers today, all of whom were searching for the freshest and tastiest ingredients they could find for their holiday celebrations. It’s our goal to share some of that food excitement with you today and so we bring you a photo tour of the open-air market in Rome’s Testaccio neighborhood.

Traditionally, the Catholic Church asked Christmas Eve be kept as a day of fasting and abstinence (the Code of Canon Law eliminated this fast in 1983) and thus the traditional Christmas Eve meal in Rome is one of fish rather than meat. Today, the fish stands were loaded with riches (see above), the most treasured of which are the capitone or eel (see below). Shoppers in the know search for a big female eel and serve it roasted, baked, or fried (it’s also preferible to purchase it alive and and conveniently kill it in your own kitchen sink in order to insure freshness).

Eels in Rome's Testaccio Market

Eating takes all evening and though each family’s meal varies, they all include a large number of courses (7, 9, and 11 are common) and often feature a menu somewhat like this one:

Antipasto of olives and marinated eel
Fish stock
Pasta with tomato and tuna sauce
Boiled cod with tomatoes, onions, pine nuts, and raisins
Broccoli
Eel
Panettone and/or Nougat for dessert

Fish in Rome's Testaccio Market

23
Dec

Roman Holidays:

Puppets at Rome's Piazza Navona Christmas Fair

Today a quick snapshot of the puppet booth at Rome’s Christmas Fair in Piazza Navona!  Here at the eCool compound we’re partial to the skull and devil puppets in the bottom left of the photo, though its tempting to leave the stylishly-dressed Big Bad Wolf (middle left) in any number of stockings!

22
Dec

Roman Holidays: It’s Saturnalia!

The Temple of Saturn in Rome's Forum RomanumIn ancient Rome, the dark and the cold of midwinter brought with them the feast of Saturn, the god of sowing and of agriculture. Saturn’s holiday, the Saturnalia, was meant to celebrate the end of autumn planting. Initially, it was held on December 17th but over time, the “Saturnalia season” was lengthened to about a week, provoking complaints from Roman scrooges who tired of the seemingly endless gift-giving, the requisite good cheer, and the non-stop revelry.

The ancient writer Lucian provides us with a lively account of the celebrations. In his Saturnalia, he assumes the voice of the god Saturn, and tells us just what is expected of the merry-makers:

During my week the serious is barred; no business allowed! Drinking, noise, and games and dice, appointing of kings and feasting of slaves, singing naked, clapping of frenzied hands, an occasional dunking of faces in icy water – such are the functions over which I preside!

Because it was a religious celebration, the Saturnalia began with a sacrifice to Saturn, which was made at his temple in the Roman Forum. The religious ritual was followed by a public feast - reason enough for the Romans to throw off their cumbersome togas and to don lightweight dressing gowns and pilei (soft red caps). After enjoying the banquet, everyone ran through the streets shouting, “Io Saturnalia!

But the fun had just begun! For the duration of the Saturnalia, everyone was on vacation. No public business could be transacted, the law courts were closed, schools were on holiday, gambling was allowed in public, and it was considered impious to begin a war.

Even slaves were given a break from the monotony of the daily routine. Granted temporary freedom, they did not have to perform their usual daily tasks, and they were treated to a banquet prepared by their masters, who also waited upon them at the table.

Saturnalia gifts were purchased for friends and family. Wax candles and clay figurines were the most common gifts, but for those tired of the same old routine, stationary, togas, alabaster bottles, and jars of plums also made appropriate presents. Then, just as now, shopping for the perfect gift was difficult. The first-century writer, Martial, made a list of presents that would impress the man or woman who had everything: live mullets, a peacock-feather fly-whisk, and snow strainers. Hard to find in the shops, but worth the effort!

In a witty epigrams, Martial also tells us that re-gifting was already standard practice in ancient Rome:

Regifted (Epigram VII.53)

Last Saturnalia, friend, I think
You must have passed along
To me each little gift you got
Yourself; now am I wrong?
Twelve tablets, seven toothpicks came;
Sponge, napkin, cup not far
Behind, a half a peck of beans,
Some olives, a black jar
Of cheap new wine, some withered prunes,
Some figlets (not too big),
And a monstrous heavy urn, filled up
With another kind of fig.
I’d say these gifts, in all, were worth
30 sesterces or less,
But eight huge Syrian slaves were needed
To carry the whole mess.

I have a better plan: next year
When you’re sending gifts to me
You’ll find one boy could tote five pounds
Of silver easily.

Translation Dorthea Wender

The Temple of Saturn in Rome's Forum Romanum

21
Dec

Photo Friday: A-Weigh in the Manger

A-Weigh in the Manger

It’s Photo Friday and in celebration of the Roman Holidays, Susan Sanders gives us a bit of A-Weigh in the Manger improv. Having passed his just-born health tests, the baby Jesus is a-weighed in. Look for his birth announcement to be arriving in your mailbox sometime soon!

For more photos by Susan, visit her Rome With A View blog.

21
Dec

Roman Holidays: Celebrating Ancient Roman Style

Happy Saturnalia

We know that many eCool readers will enjoy the recent post by Mary Beard, professor in classics at Cambridge and classics editor of the Times Literary Supplement, on the ancient Roman tradition of celebrating Saturnalia in mid-December.

We’ll be posting our own article on the ancient holiday in the next few days, but this one will get you started if you’re looking to celebrate all’antica. Click here to read Beard’s Five Things the Romans Did at Christmas.

21
Dec

Roman Holidays: Holy Toast!

Holy Toast Bread Mold

Many readers may remember that in 2004 a woman in Florida discovered a miraculous image of the Virgin Mary on her grilled cheese sandwich and sold the toast in question (which at the time was already 10 years old and moldy) for some $28,000 on eBay.

Now, everyone on your Christmas list can achieve such effects with the Holy Toast bread stamp by World Wide Fred - it’s a gift we’re sure will warm the heart of any Rome lover.

Available in the US at Perpetual Kid (and in Urban Outfitters Stores), in Britain at I Want One of Those, and in the EU at Hoge.

Holy Toast Bread Mold




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