Archive for the 'Surely You Jest?' Category

25
Aug

Nuns on the Run(Way)

Nuns in Rome by Jamie John Davies

For the past couple of days, Rome has been awash with news of a planned beauty contest for nuns.

“Miss Sister Italy,” an online beauty contest for those in the habit, is being organized by a priest, Antonio Rungi, of the southern Italian diocese of Modragone, who told the Italian newspaper, Corriere della Sera:

Nuns are above all women and beauty is a gift from God.  This contest will be a way to show there isn’t just the beauty we see on television but also a more discrete charm.

Any nun between 18 and 40 years of age who wishes  to be part of the contest should send their photographs to Father Antonio, who will publish it on his blog. Nuns can choose to wear their full habits and veils or let their hair down.

He claims that the idea for a beauty contest originated with the nuns themselves and that he expects about 1000 participants.

You really think all nuns are old, stunted and sad? This isn’t the case any more, thanks to the arrival in our country of young and vital nuns [notably from Africa and Latin America].

Fr. Antonio hopes the event will become an annual one and that next year the contest can move beyond the internet and take place in real time, preferably in conjunction with the extraordinarily popular Miss Italia contest.

Photo by Jamie John Davies.

15
Aug

Rome’s Magic Kingdom

Image from Gods & Heroes: Rome Rising

Here at the eCool Compound we’re aware that not every traveler to Rome is equally enticed by the bountiful remains of antiquity strewn across the Eternal City. Looking at fallen-down temples, collapsed columns, and foundation walls can get old — we’ll be the first to admit it.

But, that doesn’t make us any more sympathetic to the city of Rome’s announcement that they’re planning an ancient Roman theme park.  Here’s what Reuters has to say:

 With the ruins of ancient Rome, the splendor of Vatican City and countless Renaissance art treasures, what does Italy’s capital lack to attract tourists?

The answer, according to the mayor’s office, is a Disneyland-style theme park.

“The model is Euro-Disney in Paris,” said Deputy Mayor Mauro Cutrufo, announcing plans to build a vast ancient Rome theme park just outside the city which he says could be up and running within three to four years.

The park would provide family-friendly attractions to show visitors what life was like in the Rome of 2,000 years ago.

“You would relive scenes from the Colosseum, from ancient Rome, gladiators or maybe Julius Caesar or other things,” a Rome city official said.

In a city that’s chock-full of amazing experiences — from walking on ancient roads to gazing at Michelangelo’s frescoes on the Sistine Ceiling — do we really need to offer visitors an fabricated alternative to seeing Rome’s amazing art and architecture? Why build a fake Colosseum in a fake ancient Rome when the real thing is there for the taking?

We’re troubled by this, as are some city officials:

The government of the Lazio region, of which Rome is the capital, is run by the centre left and they are hostile to the proposal from the city council which is in the hands of Prime Minister Silvio Berlusconi’s centre right.

“I say no to Americanization,” said Claudio Mancini, a member of the Lazio council, who hopes the project will be stopped at the planning stage.

To our eye the project seems to be nothing more than a way to remove a few more euro from the pockets of tourists. Why not invest the same money to make Rome’s already-fabulous tourist attractions a bit more enjoyable? There’s certainly no end to things that could be done to enhance visitor experience at the Forum, the Colosseum, and the myriad of museums that are jam-packed with stunning art works. Read on. And let us know what you think.

05
Jul

a cheesy way to celebrate

Cheese Sculpture of the Signing of the Delcaration of Independence

Here at the eCool Compound, we let the Fourth of July slide on by without much fanfare or fireworks.  Nevertheless, for anyone who lives in Rome and is a student of the city’s ancient past, the founding of the United States is a fascinating topic, for the Founding Fathers also knew their ancient history and drew heavily on the model of the Roman Republic in deciding the form of the American government.

Thus, these photos, published on the La Repubblica website this morning, served as a reminder of American connections to Rome and made us wish that we’d spent the holiday in New York City’s Times Square, watching artist Troy Landwehr as he spent eight hours carving a representation of the singing of the Declaration of Independence out of a one-ton block of cheddar cheese.

Cheddar Cheese sculpture of the Signing of the Delcaration of Independence

The images made us giggle, of course, and provoked a long debate about whether or not the signers of the Declaration of Independence would be honored to be represented in a block of cheedar.  (We suspect that they might prefer another medium, but you can decide on your own.)

We also began to muse upon the different ways in which Americans and Italians entertain themselves with cheese.  Though this cheddar sculpture is certainly breathtaking, we think we prefer the Italian tendency to roll cheese around a hilltown in celebration of a holiday.

Signing of the Delcaration of Independence Represented in Cheese

27
May

The Girandola That Happened Early

The Girandola at Castel Sant'Angelo

Great excitement spread through the worldwide press last week when the city of Rome announced that a fireworks display designed by Michelangelo would be staged at 10:30pm on Saturday 24 May in commemoration of the 500th anniversary of Michelangelo’s work on the Sistine Chapel Ceiling (Michelangelo signed the contract that bound him to paint the Sistine Ceiling on May 10, 1508).

The plan–as reported by websites and newspapers worldwide–was to reproduce Michelangelo’s Girandola, an elaborate fireworks display created by the artist for Pope Julius II, which was first staged from the heights of Castel Sant’Angelo in the early 16th century and repeated annually until 1834.

As many of our readers might imagine, we at the eCool Compound were extremely excited about the recreation of the Girandola. We did a bit of research. We discovered the color-washed etchings of the event (above) created by Francesco Piranesi and Louis-Jean Desprez in the 1780s (now in the New York Public Library and the Metropolitan Museum of Art), and we cleared our Saturday evening calendars in preparation for a fireworks extravaganza.

We were excited to see how Michelangelo’s fireworks display would differ from the modern fireworks that so often light up the Roman sky at night. And we were interested to hear that an historic fireworks expert, Giuseppe Passeri, had spent years studying ancient documents and finding ways to reproduce the fireworks-making materials of Michelangelo’s era.

In article after article, Passeri explained that unlike modern firework shows, the Girandola used few explosives and focused on transparency and color definition:

The Girandola was an unmistakably baroque event, an astounding play of colors wedded to its surroundings. It was a kind of elaborate game, like a fountain transformed into fire.

Yes! This would be interesting! And it would be made even more so by the fact that Renaissance fireworks production techniques were vastly different from modern ones, using entirely natural materials and relying heavily on the location to enhance the effect. According to Passeri, his team would do its best to reproduce the original shape of Michelangelo’s fireworks, which were meant to mimic a volcanic eruption on the island of Stromboli, off the coast of Sicily.

And so, on Saturday evening, we took ourselves to Castel Sant’Angelo. We arrived about 10:20pm and found an excellent vantage point on a nearby bridge. We stood there amongst Romans, tourists, and any number of lederhausen-clad oom-pah-pah bands (we can’t explain their enthusiasm for the event). We waited. And we waited. And we waited some more. But the Girandola never happened.

ADDENDUM:  Since we first published this article some days ago, Jennifer and Hande, two intrepid residents of Rome, have written to tell us that Girandola DID take place.  Despite being scheduled for 10:30pm, the fireworks actually went off early, about 9:45 or 10:00pm.  We must not have been the only ones foiled in our efforts to photograph the event, for no images have appeared in the press.

Some information via ANSA

01
May

Mayor Alemanno Wants to Move the Ara Pacis Building?

Rome's Ara Pacis

Rome’s new mayor, Gianni Alemanno - a former street-fighting neo-fascist - wowed TV audiences last night with a bit of archaeological and architectural “shock and awe.”

Speaking on the popular show, “Porta a porta,” the mayor announced that he’ll be holding a referendum to allow Roman citizens to decide the fate of the Ara Pacis museum, which was designed by American architect Richard Meier and which opened to the public in 2006 after a decade of construction (and associated delays).  Talking about this much maligned building, the neo-mayor (as the Italian papers are calling him) said:

The first occasion we have where we will not need money to spend on elections we will promote a city referendum to decide whether to keep Meier’s structure or not.

If our citizens opt not to keep it we will move it to the suburbs.

Alemanno added:

It is an issue of compatibility: the [building] is in a baroque part of the city, and that style suits the area. It is not a priority, but I think that some interventions were excessively invasive.

Really? Will the Ara Pacis go with it or will Augustus’s altar stay where it is? From the comments above, it seems that it’s only the building that Alemanno wants to exile to the outskirts and not the ancient artwork that it houses. And so what of Augustus’s altar? One can only imagine that it will neatly boxed up and surrounded with scaffolding for many years.

In the interest of full disclosure, it must be admitted that we at the eCool Compound have mixed feelings about Meier’s museum. There are aspects that we like, for example the gorgeous sunlight that streams through the glass walls and enlivens Augustus’s oh-so-neat-and-tidy monument, as well as the simple fact that we can actually see and visit the ancient altar after the ten-year political and architectural debacle that took place while Meier’s building was under construction. (We can’t get into that here. It’s just to much to dredge it all up again. If you’re looking for information about that decade-long controversy, we suggest you start with this Newsweek article and this New York Times article.)

That said, there are also things about Meier’s building that we hate. From some angles it looks like a stark white fortress constructed to defend the banks of the Tiber from the invasion of post-modern monsters that might rise from the muddy mess that is Rome’s venerable river.

Yet, when all is said and done, Meier’s building is at last finished - and the ancient monument it houses (which looks almost as good as it did when it was dedicated in 9 BC) can be admired and studied once again. In this city of slow-moving public works, that alone is something for which to be grateful.

Yet, Mr. Alemanno is not convinced. He hates the building (or at least he’s clever enough to capitalize on general Roman disdain for the new museum) and so he’s called for an old-fashioned damnatio memoriae.

The subtext for his TV announcement seems to go something like this: “Let’s get rid of the Ara Pacis Museum and thereby erase the memory of Rome’s past culture minister, Francesco Rutelli. Left-leaning liberals be gone! They allowed foreign architects to march on Rome and to spoil the city, but I’m here to claim the Eterna back for its citizens!”

Mamma mia! Mr. Alemanno is going to be a formidable force. Clearly he understands that any effort to rule modern Rome necessarily involves the politization of antiquity and archaeology. Thus Augustus - an emperor so privileged and prized by Rome’s last liberal administration - is headed for the sticks.

In honor of Mr. Alemanno’s appalling announcement, we’ve invented a new category for the eCool Blog - it’s called “Surely You Jest” and we suspect that in the coming months we’ll have the opportunity to make many entries under that heading.