Archive for the 'On the Street' Category



06
Jun

Every Breath You Take

Environmental Protest in Rome

Around 150 statues across Rome were wearing anti-pollution masks over their mouths on Thursday morning following a covert night-time operation by environmental activists.

Early-morning joggers and dog walkers alerted the police to the masks after finding them on statues of Roman emperors lining Via dei Fori Imperiali near the Colosseum,
famous magistrates around Rome’s Palace of Justice, and Garibaldi’s mustachioed generals on the Janiculum Hill.  Statues in Piazza del Popolo and along two bridges across the River Tiber were also dressed in the protective gear.

Rome's Statues Participate in Environmental Protest

The activists from environmental group Terra! had also hung no-entry road signs around the necks of the statues bearing the chemical symbol for carbon dioxide.
”It’s incredible that they could have done this without anyone realising,” said a dog walker who notified police to masks and signs placed over the white marble angels on the bridge leading to Castel Sant’Angelo.  ”These angels are at least four meters high: even if it was during the night, you’d still need a ladder to reach their heads”.

Terra! said the masked statues were ”protesting together with activists” about carbon dioxide emissions from cars and appealed to the European Commission to issue new
regulations for the reduction of the greenhouse gas.  Restoration experts have long been concerned about the effects of air-borne pollutants on the city’s statues and monuments.
Nitrates, heavy metals and sulphur dioxide - and not CO2 - are the main culprits for eroding and discolouring the marble and bronze masterpieces.

Via ANSA

Rome's Statues Particpate in an Environmental Protest

31
May

Keep On Truckin’?

Lago Truck

Pretty fabulous truck trailer created for Lago, an Italian furniture company! We saw it first on Notcot.org but you can read more about it on the Lago website as well.

21
May

Where-Wolf?

She-Wolf Graffiti in Rome

Wanna know where to find this wolf?  Don’t go looking in a cave on the Palatine or even in the Capitoline Museums.  This is a She-Wolf that’s hit the streets. You’ll find her painted on temporary walls in the pedestrian gallery on Via Tritone, where the Rinascente department store is currently staging a small street art exhibition meant to tempt us all to visit the larger Scala Mercalli exhibit that opened in the parking garage of Rome’s Auditorium yesterday evening.

We, of course, are partial to use of classical themes in graffiti, so we were especially pleased to see La Lupa sprayed on the wall.  But she’s not the only ancient Roman to be featured, as the 7 Kings make a rare 21st century appearance in the Via Tritone exhibit as well.  Click here to pay homage to their royal highnesses.

And for a spray-painted version of Rome’s ancient cityscape, click here.

20
May

7 x Kings : SPQR

7 Kings Graffiti

The department store conglomerate known as Rinascente is leaving aside its stodgy image to sponsor the making of street art in Rome!

Last week, with the support of Rinascente, street artists set up temporary walls in the pedestrian gallery on Via Tritone and staged a street art exhibition called Scala Mercalli: The Creative Earthquake of Italian Street Art (it sounds better in Italian).

Artists like TV Boy, Ivan, Ozmo, Kayone, Zen Two, JB Rock, and Thero put on a public painting display and in doing so produced a large number of artworks still visible in the passageway.  Naturally, we took a spin and shot some photos and we’re here to share them with you now.

Probably none of our readers will be surprised to discover that we’re entirely enamored of the 7 Kings graphic shown above, for it seems to make reference to the earliest history of Rome.

But, as seen below, there’s some other hot stuff on display as well.  Stay tuned for more tomorrow.

Street Art in Rome

06
May

DJ Leisure

DJ Graffiti on Via Ostiense

We recently spotted this graffiti on the old Mercato Generale on Via Ostiense. We’re calling it DJ Leisure - and we know there are readers out there who will understand the importance of that name.

03
May

Photo Saturday: The Party’s Over

Election Posters in Rome

On the 13-14th of April, Italy held an early parliamentary election following the collapse of Prime Minister Romano Prodi’s center-left coalition government, which lost a vote of confidence in the Italian Senate last January 24th.

The elections greatly enlivened Rome’s streetscape - a myriad of political candidates and their associated parties wallpapered the Eternal City with posters applied to building walls and to metal billboards. Whether they intended to do so or not, Romans (and those of us here at the eCool Compound) spent months studying the smiling faces, clever logos, and optimistic campaign promises of an endless series of candidates, for it was impossible to venture out of one’s home without being visually bombarded by the paper propaganda.

Election Posters in Rome

Then, election day came - it was time for it all to be over. We’d tired of the grinning mugs of the politicians and were ready to return to streets lined with circus posters and notices about concerts, art exhibits, and other cultural offerings.

That, of course, was not to be the case. Those April 13-14th elections were more than just parliamentary in Rome, for the city’s mayor, Walter Veltroni, had stepped down from office in order to face off with Silvio Berlusconi for the office of Prime Minister. That meant that Romans were faced with choosing a new mayor in the mid-April elections. Their votes, however, were inconclusive. The two candidates, Gianni Alemanno and Francesco Rutelli, were evenly divided and therefore a runoff was required.

Election Posters in Rome

So, as the posters pertaining to the national election were stripped away, a whole new array of political advertisements appeared. Almost daily, the walls and placards were caked with new posters, creating a Rutelli-Alemanno, Rutelli-Alemanno, Rutelli-Alemanno stratigraphy that left the head spinning and the eye rolling.

Two long weeks later, the runoff election was held. Alemanno was found to have defeated his rival Rutelli by some 7 percentage points. And so what do the streets of Rome look like in the aftermath of Alemanno’s victory? The now-obsolete posters are starting to peel from the walls leaving a streetscape that’s more visually interesting than anything provided by the political candidates.

Today, on Photo Friday, Susan Sanders gives us a view into the perforated and peeling layers that line Rome’s streets. In some cases, overlapping layers have been ripped away to frame the face of someone’s preferred candidate (see top photo), while in other cases the degradation appears to be fueled by weak glue, wind, and rain. In every case, it’s interesting to watch the promising faces of Italy’s political vanguard peel away as the new governments - both local and national - take office and settle into what is likely to be the same old routine.

Election Posters in Rome

On 15 March 2008, Susan Sanders gave us a look at the political debris engendered when torrential rains sweep these posters off their walls and billboards and onto the streets. Click here. And click here for the clever poster created by a Roman artist whose studies of political propaganda posted in the Eternal City was called Lasagna Elettorale.

For more of Susan’s photos, visit her blog: Rome With A View.

Election Posters in Rome

28
Apr

Third Annual Pillow Fight!

3rd Annual Pillow Fight in Rome, Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere

Yesterday evening, just before 6pm, it seemed that Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere was being invaded by an army of some 300 people, all of whom were clutching strangely-shaped bags that appeared to be filled with soft objects of similar size. What were they doing? What were they carrying?

The mission of the bag-bearers became clear at the moment that the fine medieval bell tower in the piazza began its six-o-clock chime. To the tune of pealing bells, the mysterious bags were thrown aside to reveal that each member of the invading army was armed with a pillow. Time for the third edition of Roman Pillow Fight!

3rd Annual Pillow Fight in Rome's Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere

Organized by the so-called Committee for the Termination of National Apathy, the aim of the annual Pillow Fight event is that of relieving anxiety and stress.

You can read more at the official Roman Pillow Fight Blog where you’ll be directed to images of the event posted on Flickr (the source of our images) and to video on YouTube. You’ll also find links to the Facebook and MySpace Roman Pillow Fight pages. Want to stage your own Pillow Fight? Visit the World Pillow Fight Day website - as it turns out, March 22nd was World Pillow Fight Day.

3rd Annual Pillow Fight, Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere, Rome

25
Apr

15 Minutes of Fame

Mafia Graffiti in Palermo

The Cathedral of Palermo - known for its spectacular array of medieval tombs and sculpture - is today graced with a new work of art. An Andy Warhol style graffiti featuring the face of mob boss Matteo Messina Denaro has appeared on a wall that separates the church from nearby Piazza Setteangeli. The portraits were based on the last known photo of the fugitive boss.

The nearby text reads “Messina Denaro - the Last!” Newspaper reports suggest that the initials F.A. (above, surrounded by a circle) may be those of the artist.

So who is the guy being praised (or blamed?) in spray-on street style? He’s a really bad guy - one of Italy’s most wanted fugitives, one of the world’s largest drug dealers (according to the FBI), and a man who’s definitely already had his 15 minutes of fame. A leader of Cosa Nostra, Matteo Messina Denaro became known nationally 2001, when the magazine L’Espresso put him on the cover with the headline: Ecco il nuovo capo della mafia (”Here is the new boss of the Mafia”).

Known for being a ruthless playboy mafioso and womaniser, driving an expensive Porsche sports car, and wearing a Rolex Daytona watch, Ray Ban sunglasses and clothes from Armani and Versace, Messina Denaro has been a fugitive since 1993 when he was involved in the bomb attacks that shook Sicily and killed prosecutors Giovanni Falcone and Paolo Borsellino.

Palermo Mafia Graffiti

23
Apr

Birthday of Rome: Street Performers Honor the Eterna

Romulus & the She-Wolf Puppets

One last Birthday of Rome post from the eCool Compound!

Some readers have been asking how we know the foundation date of Rome - a good question!  Rome’s birthday was given to us by the first-century BC historian Marcus Terentius Varro who wrote that it was on 21 April 753 BC when Romulus founded the city.  Thus, as of today, the Eternal City is 2761 years + 2 days old.

This year, celebration of Rome’s birthday began on Saturday 19 April with the re-enactment of an ancient ritual.  On Sunday 20 April, (almost) all of Rome turned out to celebrate the big day on Via dei Fori Imperiali, where a paradea full of gladiators, centurions, and senators marched from the Circus Maximus to the Colosseum and along the Via dei Fori Imperiali (click here and here).

But that wasn’t all that was going on!  The street was lined with stalls touting the wholesome goodness of Italy’s most traditional foods, while a range of sporting demonstrations wowed the crowds - we at the eCool Compound were blown away by the Ruzzolone, a traditional cheese-rolling contest held in an Umbrian hill town.

There were street performers galore, including clowns, fire-eaters, roaming musicians, acrobats, and puppet shows.  Two groups in particular caught our eye.  We couldn’t help giggling at the Romulus & the She-Wolf hand puppet troupe that’s seen in the photo above.  And these stilt walkers clad in 18th-century costumes left us wondering just how tall the Colosseum really is.

Stilt Performers at Rome's Colosseum

22
Apr

Birthday of Rome: Roll the Cheese, Please!

Ruzzolone - Cheese Rolling in Via dei Fori Imperiali

For those of you who may not have been keeping up with events in Rome over the past few days, it’s important to note that yesterday, 21 April, was the 2761st birthday of the Eternal City.   Celebrations began on Saturday 19 April with a re-enactment of the ancient Parilia Festival in the Forum Boarium, and then continued on Sunday 20 April with a parade in which a thousand people dressed as centurions, gladiators, Vestal Virgins, senators, prisoners of wars, and goddesses strolled around the Colosseum.  (See our coverage here and here).

The events just described were staged by the Gruppo Storico Romano, but other celebratory events organized by the Comune di Roma and Legambiente were also on offer on the Via dei Fori Imperiali: Stalls showcasing food products particular to various small towns and villages across Italy were set up along the roadside while folk bands and demonstrations of traditional sporting events were given.

Among the strangest and most interesting of events was a demonstration of the Ruzzolone - a sporting event practiced only in the Umbrian village of Panicale - in which huge roundels of Pecorino cheese are rolled around town on Pasquetta, the day after Easter (Please note that in the demonstration of this event on Via dei Fori Imperiali, no effort was made to roll the cheese all the way around Rome, nor even to coax it into following the contours of the pomerium, the city boundary established by Romulus.  Darn!)

Ruzzolone - Cheese Rolling in Via dei Fori Imperiali

The event - as practiced in Panicale in Umbria - is described in fascinating detail here:

From the NY Times:  Mr. [Stew] Vreeland tells of the Ruzzolone in Panicale — the rolling of the cheese. A sporting event that combines elements of bocce and yo-yo, it is, Mr. Vreeland says, “as crazy as it sounds.” The giocatori, or players, send a nine-pound round of Pecorino cheese rolling on a course around the perimeter of the ancient, walled village. It is launched with a leather strap, wrapped around the cheese and pulled by a stick of wood. Spotters run alongside the cheese to mark where it falls. The winner — the player who completes the race course in the fewest strokes — gets the cheese.

Often the cheeses go careening into nearby olive groves or, as Mr. Vreeland wrote on his Web site, www.seeyouinitaly.com, “get wedged under the one Fiat Uno that didn’t get the No Parking message.” When the race is completed, the crowd is entertained by a bandaccia (literally “bad band”), with people playing pots, pans, cowbells, horns and a few actual instruments.

Kind of crazy, eh?  But that’s not all that was on display.  Crowds were also treated to a mighty display of tiro alla fune or tug of war - a contest that apparently has long been a favorite in Italian towns and villages.

Tug of War on Via dei Fori Imperiali

The competition was fierce - it was the azzuri against the rossi or the blues against the reds.  Both teams pulled to a rhythmic chant, each trying to gain ground with every grunt as the crowd yelled and cheered.

Tug of War in Rome's Via dei Fori Imperiali

Ultimately, the brute strength that was the blue team managed to exert their power over the reds, pulling their opponents over the magic line and declaring victory.  Are these gusy wearing azzuro the Italian National Tug of War Team?  We don’t know but it seems their jerseys suggest that might be the case.

Tug of War in Rome's Via dei Fori Imperiali




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